Hello together, I’m new here in the forum. Ride a German premium car so far and just ordered me the new Mazda 3! Never seen in real, never sat in, read everything for it, enthusiastic and made all crosses… Is there any more crazy like me here? Greetings Zed
Category: MINI Forum
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Purchase advice Decision-making aid.
Hello dear community, I need a new car and it should become a Mazda 3. I think of the model from 2014. I want a very young used, annual car or similar and can not decide between the different offers. Maybe you can give with tips. It is to become the 120 HP petrol variant. To the selection stand: Mazda 3 Sports as annual car with approx. 20 000km for approx. 17 500€ Mazda 3 Signature as daily registration for almost 18 000€ Mazda 3 Sports L 19 000€ I’ve already Googled a lot and don’t come up with any solution. What would you do? On the one hand, the annual car is a bit cheaper, on the other hand, also a yearly car. But is that absolutely something bad? Are there perhaps even advantages of annual car? Should I possibly grab the signature? Quite a significant difference is the Bose sound system right? Is the sport worth the 1000€ more than TZ? Or for even a little less G eld the sport with the system and for it 20 000km? As you can see, I don’t know any more. Maybe you can help me with your opinions. Thank you.
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Purchase advice Mazda 3 Diesel
Estimated community The winter range of my current Stromer has let me get into a mess with the cart. I am now thinking about kicking off the current and running the next roughly 2-3 years with a burner, until attractive and affordable electricians have entered the market. Maxime is cheap, robust and the targeted duration survives. I know that bumps, scratches, disconnected controls etc. are to be expected. My driving prof il: pendle daily, per way 50km, 49km of which Swiss highway with 80kmh to 120kmh, while rush times however rather 30-60kmh. In the selection is currently ( next to 100+ others on the watch list ) an advertisement: Sure, I ask here for the reading in the glass ball, but so purely tended: Thank you very much!
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Purchase advice desired …
Hello, I’m a total beginner in Mazda vehicles and so please check with me. could I tell someone about Mazdahttps://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… Advantages Disadvantages, what you should or must pay attention to etc?
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Kaufberatung second opinion sought Mazda 323F Built 2000 82,000km 1.990€
Hi, I have discovered an offer in my vicinity with the following data: Mazda 323 F EZ: 2000 82,000 km €1,900 Also the following seller information: “Sell a well-kept vehicle without defects. Winter tires on steel rims 2000 km as new. Brakes, oil, brake fluid, catalyst new. Summer tires on original aluminium rim profile 5mm.” Short to my planned use: I am a student and need the car mainly around 2 times a month the approx. 250km distance to my study location and back to commute, also to get here in the rural area (home) from A to B (short distance <50km). What do you think I can do with such a purchase big something wrong? I see other offers with 200,000km more and comparable price. My father knows a good car mechanic, who in case of cases can do repairs like timing belts etc. cheaply. Would I be pleased about a few helpful assessments
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my small to large restoration project
Today I start with my small or how one also likes to see, large restoration project. I hope to get some tips or information from you and ask me not to write to me a thousand times that I should fight the cart etc. I have until now as one can see the lamps removed the fenders right and left and the bumper including impact absorbers. Next I will remove the rust the holes and weld everything nicely. I can get wings from an anni for 100 €. Are the fenders of this special model by chance the same color from my car? Therefore, for the specialists of you will photograph the identification number and set it here. I hope the topic will interest you and you will have fun with my restoration project.
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Buying an Mx5 nb that doesn’t start
Good morning together, I’m thinking about buying an Mx5 bj 2001 which doesn’t start. He just dropped 124,000. The seller probably said it’s the ZKD. Can it be? I read it should last longer… What possible damage could have occurred? Unfortunately, no information about compression, ignition spark or sprit.. What do I have to pay attention to during the visit? Would be grateful about a few tips from the professionals! Greetings Julian
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Longitudinal support frame… now also with me :-/
Today I made my 99 NB winterproof and found out that both longitudinal beams have rust in the front area. Although it was completely hollow-space-conserved with a certificate nine years ago and was allegedly treated with fluid film every year. Had an experienced mechanic with him, who also has experience in body construction. He meant generously cut out, stable sheet metal pure, paint and then properly seal. Of course before the carrier flood properly, who his time calculation six hours +-2 hours. Is this realistic and TÜV technically permissible at all? So that it doesn’t rust any further over the winter, I treated it properly from inside and outside with fluid film and it is now in the dry garage. Thanks for your assessment! PS: what I don’t understand is, he clapped neatly on it with a hammer and a grain, but he couldn’t get through. Why is that? Actually, inside is already through If it’s not even visible on the outside…
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Mx5 na has more power with super plus.
Hello. I drive a 1992 na. For the first time I should mention, during the head seal change the cylinder head was 2/10 mm planed. In addition, I set the zzp to 14° v.ot. Below it did not pull soo well and from 6,500 rpm ging the needle no longer so fast, so became a bit sluggish. Consumption was 8.2 l with super. 50/50 sporty and sprite saving. I have today put super Plus and you can say what you want it to go off now!!! He had not knocked because of the hö He always had a jerk at low revolutions at full load, which I push on the old spark plugs. (Come on again). I will calculate the consumption with super plus at the next time. Do you have any experience with it? Maybe someone who has changed the zzp and or compaction himself. Do you think the consumption could be less? Something? So with MIR with my engine settings it definitely brings real performance and not just imaginary, e r is better at all speeds both below and above. Achja . End silencer is self-made with less congestion pressure. Short secondary question: if I have a roll and a consumer in idle mode as well as e.g. the ventilation it jerks. Without a consumer it runs round. What can that be? Evtl sharp camshafts from the previous owner??? Thank you very much for your answer!!!
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Miata 1.8l bad warm start – too fat?
I have a 93 CAN Miata, which originally had a 1.6 engine and got a 1.8 NA BP engine a few years ago. This was done and registered by the previous owner. The engine runs well, has a good cold start and drives and pulls well. What I am looking for in this thread is actually the warm start, or a line in the engine room, which in my opinion is the Pr If I drive with the original air filter box (currently open filter), a hose (see pictures) is inserted into the air filter box after air filter (directly above the air filter plate). I tracked the line once, it comes from the passenger side and starts from a metal pipe. In addition, it smells like sprite more often when the car is standing after the ride. If I then want to start, it will drain without gas. Therefore, my guess that it has a fuel vent The point is that the problem with the bad start does not occur when I drive the open filter. The line is then open in the engine compartment directly from the open filter fixed, so that an almost same system prevails, like me original box. Maybe you have an idea or can tell me whether this hose goes into the air filter box with you or not and what it can be Thank you in advance, excuse the long text. Have a nice evening!