Category: MINI Forum

  • Timing belt change Mazda 6 136 HP Diesel, when?

    Can someone tell me when to change the timing belt at Mazda 6 136 hp diesel year 2004?

  • what to do if Mazda doesn’t renovate the rust?

    I have Mazda6 Kombi Built in 2004. Because I didn’t do a single service, Mazda gets out of the guarantee. Can they do that? Are there precedents? My 2004 is an economic total damage. The rust holes are partly over 10 cm wide. The sleepers are completely open because completely rusted away. The wheel houses at the rear no longer exist de facto. The front could last another one or two years. The underbody is a single tragedy, cross handlebars etc. heavy An 8-year-old car has reached the end of its life cycle and the 12-year rust guarantee does not apply….

  • Decision-making aid Mazda 626 (vs Primera & Avensis)

    Hello, I am looking for a replacement for my Volvo, a newer but not new car, which is to some extent clear, has a large trunk, and is above all reliable. After a little search and a long look in my empty wallet, the following selection is available: If a Mazda 626 station wagon is preferred around the turn of the millennium (’98-’02), a Toyota Avensis (’01-’02) or a Nissan Primera. The latter are very cheap, but obviously suffer from the caramel plague and the Cock pit looks like a prolific stereo system of the 90s. To the Mazda I hear surprisingly little bad – a bit of talk about brakes, a bit of rust, hardly anything else. Here in the forum a quick look did not give so much, my best friend is enthusiastic about his ’01er 626 (but also a bit blinded, as far as Mazda is concerned), my uncle very satisfied with his fully equipped 6. So what should I pay attention to? Look forward to good feedback! Lieb Gruss Oli P.S.: Living in Norway Here the prices are different and the running performance is higher… Examples I’m interested in: ’00 626 with fresh TÜV, try out maybe on the Easter weekend, ’02 Avensis (hole in the exhaust, marauding rhymes, broken window lifter, sad varnish and dead hand brake – otherwise good ), ’01 Primera, try driving maybe tonight.

  • Mazda 626 brake rear blocked

    Good evening for the first time… I drive a Mazda 626 GW built in 1998 and have been having a problem blocking my brake at the rear left for about 2 weeks. The brake disc gets hot and it smells like it’s already slightly burned. I noticed that the problem occurs as soon as I use the hand brake. I dismantled the brake system and when the brake rope is hung, I noticed that the saddle is not completely back but is slightly tightened and can be pushed back by hand about 1 cm. When I press the handbrake as long as the car is mounted, the caliper always goes back. However, I can turn the tires with a bit of hard work with the fully tightened brake. As soon as I mount the tire, drive off and then press the handbrake you will hang again. Let me leave the handbrake in peace everything is OK. The right side Since e is OK there blocks nothing and the tire I can not turn even with the greatest effort. Oh yes the caliper I had changed already 2 years ago but against used by verwerter (then the problem was that I had no handbrake effect). Unfortunately I always have the habit of pulling the handbrake when I park, so I certainly have to solve the brake three times by hand in the last 2 weeks. What do you mean what can that be? I suspect Br emssattel or brake rope. Ask for your help, thank you.

  • Problems with 1 & 2Gang

    Hello dear user, I have a problem with my Mazda 626 [ V Station Wagon GW 1998-2002] And hope that you can help me further. Now to the Porblem: Wednesday morning 6.00 am I get into my car drive to my construction site everything still in order. After work 15 o’clock I get into the car the car has got up well was the whole day around the 20°c car was unfortunately in the sun..so I want to go driving make ignition on leg the 1t. Gang one clamps a little but goes…then after 10min car fah rt I have to climb a hill and at the end of the hill a traffic light as always red.. and when starting at the traffic light the 1 passage does not go in anymore …. the 2th goes hard but I go off 500m the next traffic light but mountain down again ampel red there goes the 1 passage hard in… after 500m the mountain goes up again with red traffic light again the 1 passage does not go in.. the 2th only hard… at home I park the car and test the corridors: 1 course does not go in. 2course does not go in 5gang and RWG go hard… ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I test it again on Friday evening 23 ot because it is only when it’s only when it is warm with the walks, I go, I go, I go, and the first gear goes, and the first gear goes in as if it is fresh and the 2nd and the other walks again… after about 45 min. d is just then I hit the steering wheel on the right and once the speed goes up and the light starts to sloppy and out of my engine comes a funny noise… sorry for the long text.. I hope, however, someone can help me.. because I have little money at the moment to bring my pkw to the workshop… P.s I was at different workshops and the saying coupling can be nothing else but I don’t think so … Thank you in advance =)

  • M6 Facelift (What’s cracking?)

    Hello, with our M6-Kombi-Facelift the following noise occurs irregularly with simultaneous (very) slight twitching in the steering wheel: After a longer slight(!) braking it cracks shortly before(!) the stop from the front left. The same noise occurs when I roll from the parking space (with a strong lateral inclination to the right) to the road with a slightly kicked foot brake in the morning and carry out a right/left steering movement. After several greases have already been exchanged. I think that a pad game in the saddle is now unlikely. Should it have had an effect on the braking process. Can someone give me a hint how to narrow down the fault? In the workshop you could not find an obvious defect; and if you were suspected of changing parts, you understandably didn’t want to. But I also don’t want to drive around until the defective part falls off on its own. n New car with 7tkm and warranty. And the whole has been annoying since 5tkm really huge!

  • Wrapped seats – alternatives to new purchase –

    Hello, the wear on the left cheek of the driver’s seat is sufficiently well known and widespread. Not to get used replacement without wear. New seats too expensive. Therefore my question: 1. Does anyone have experience with the installation of seats from other vehicles? 2. Does anyone know if you can convert the passenger seat to driver’s seat? Thank you for your advice.

  • New price list incl. G 150 hp engine

    To highlight this, I’m setting the New Price List January 2020. New additions, like the CX30, include a 150 hp version of the G Skyactive.

  • Purchase advice MX5 NC or ND

    Hello together, I’m about to make a purchase decision and wanted to get some opinions. I decided to get a MX5 and I’m already looking forward to the car. I’ve been looking at some offers for some time and now I have to choose between two. These offers are only fundamentally different, because one is a new ND and the other is a used NC. I have to say I like the ND a bit better and of course it has a much better equipment. The offer I have is a price of 22,000€ for the Exclusive-Line. I would get the NC Niseko I looked at for about 12.00€. Here is the offer: [url=MX5 NC Niseko Bj 2009]http://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?…[/url] Do you think this is a good offer for a 7 year old car? And do you think it would be worthwhile to invest in the ND despite the loss of value of a new car? Thank you for your Meinu n.a.

  • MX5 does not take gas

    Hello all, you helped me (last September) so great with the purchase advice. I have now a 1,9 NBFL with now 130TKM (year 2001). Now I have the problem that it just drains on start drives (if it is sunny and warm) or it does not take any more gas and I have to turn it off. Then it doesn’t jump any more. If you wait now 1-2 hours, it jumps on and purrs again normally until the next “overheating”. The Mazda dealer now has the crankshaft sensor for schlap From the yard down, through the city at 30 degrees and again the problem occurs. By means of the search function you will eventually get to ignition coil. But is this the problem I described? Is it true that you always have to replace the ignition coil in the whole set? What costs can I count on? 2 x 500 EUR? oh my God, but that’s just the way it is with 14 years old cars… Thanks for your tips, Dennis