Category: MINI Forum

Hello, I haven’t found a collection thread so far, where the problems of the Mazda 3 BM are collected. Therefore I start here: Mazda 3 BM Sportline 2.0 with 120 hp Year of construction 2014 40,000 km technical problems: – electric exterior mirror 2x defective (once on the driver’s side and recently on the passenger side) – BOSE loudspeaker on the passenger side defective (if the bass is in use, probably membrane defective) – brake of the front axle: brake caliper heavy, why di e Brake pads of the passenger side “glazed” were. Today replaced with ATE and saddle reopened (strange) small things: – window lifter only on the driver’s seat automatically, all 3 others manually – no automatic closing of the doors while driving – window not to open or close with the remote control (longer pressed) – no “Comming Home” light – headrests front seats are too far facing forward (one sits relatively bent forward) – touch display only Can be operated in the stand Otherwise a really great car

Hi! I hope I get a few tips which solves the problem because the workshop couldn’t help me. Auto: Mazda 3 BK 2.0 Suction engine Built 2008 I have a swallowing of the engine at quite exactly 3000 revolutions in case of easy acceleration, but then it’s also immediately gone away, everything is normal before that. However, when passing through the accelerator, this doesn’t occur! The strongest is in the 2nd and 3rd gears, it only comes from time to time during the day, but as soon as there is no 8 is actually going to be every time! Gas is electronic. Maybe it would still be important to mention that I have installed a subwoofer if it has something to do with the electronics. New was made on suspicion: -Zündkerzen -Drosselklappe was freshly cleaned this had but also few black splashes -New air filter Thanks in advance Lg

Good morning, have my Mazda 3 Fb Skyactive-x 2.0 M-Hybrid EZ 02/20 20,000km mileage, I-activesense, BOSE sound system, design package, now since c.a. 70 days on Mobile.de / Classifieds / Cars cout etc but did not have a single interested despite premium ads. The car has a repair accident damage, does it possibly have something to do with it? Reperature costs were around the 3000€ At a Mazda dealer I would get almost 1800€ and at WKDA yesterday I have an offer over 18 500€ received. New price was 26700€ due to cash payment and commercial purchase. Have no experience regarding car sales, therefore I wanted to listen here what you think. Car is registered but I don’t drive with it anymore. How will the value loss be in the next weeks / months? How will the offer of WKDA develop in the next time? Does the waiting generally pay or rather take the WKDA offer with you? What do you think about private for a price? Thank you and greetings, Jonathan

Hey, I’m interested in the above-mentioned vehicle. I’d be interested in your opinions about the car. Especially with regard to reliability and longevity. I’ve already sniffed around here in the forum, but it’s usually only the dissatisfied people report in a forum and 90% happily drives around What are there for weak spots? Known diseases? Things you should pay special attention to when buying used goods? Greeting and thank you

Hello, look for two screws for the rear brake caliper carrier at the 626 GV/GD. Maybe there are also suitable screws for later models, but I don’t know. Who can kick me two off? Is an M10 fine thread and 35 mm long. I don’t know the degree of hardness, suit values could be 69 NM, on the 14er hexagonal head there is a 10. Thank you very much

1. The Mazda 626 needs new filters (oil, petrol and air filters). On the internet I find many different offers from around the 3 Euro to 20 Euro per filter. Can I access the cheaper ones or do it have to be more expensive, better? 2. The same question I still have with brake blocks (back axle) that have to be renewed and have found some for 15 Euro and some for about 30 Euro. I don’t know what I have to pay attention to how 3. The Mazda dealer recommends the following oils for the car: 5W30 or 10W30 or 10W40 I know that for new cars 10W30 should be used and if it is older, like mine now, 10W40. So should I use 10W40 or 5W30? What exactly does the information for oils mean?

Hello. My girlfriend has a bit of worries with her car at the moment. She bought the vehicle a year ago privately, apparently with an expensive defect. She never noticed that the ABS people never burn (whether ignition on or engine on). Now she had to go to the workshop because of another repair and of course errors were read out (see picture). According to the workshop this pump has to be replaced. Estimate of the workshop 1300 € only for the pump. experience with such a defect? Can’t you buy a used pump and then install it? Vehicle data: Mazda 6 Type GG 1.8 Petrol 120 HP 120 tkm Thank you for your help…

Hello Finally I came into a few situations where I had to press the horn to defuse a dangerous situation. The problem: the horn of the BM sounds somehow as if it was built for a vehicle between Smart and Mofa. You go on the horn, but warning effect remains – you look rather confused “ok where is the circus?”. So I want to replace the horn now. The problem is: with what? Tuning horns with multi-sound and super-sound is overkill, it should simply after “da hupt a car”. To make understand what I mean: hooves can be associated with the vehicles based on their sound image: truck fanfares road cruiser tuning boxes (where the engine is louder anyway than the horn) SUV car smallest car (Smart, Twingo) motorcycle scooter mofa/bicycle-genöns. My BM sounds somewhere between scooter and motorcycle. Who hears that completely legitimately last thinking of “da hupt ein Auto”. My plan was now that I had a horn on the bay (so bass and tweeter) ) shoot, so that my Mazda sounds like a car. Difficulty: for everything there are videos, only unfortunately not for horn sounds. Does someone have a tip for a horn that is NOT covered for a car like the Mazda 3, but also does not arouse false associations? => If e.g. n Smombie runs in front of the car (or n cyclist turns to left traffic etc) and I get full braking on the horn, I don’t want to look out for (other) bicycles, but just know “Attention A uto, just get out of here”

Hello everybody, we have a change to Mazda in January. It will be our first Mazda. It will be changed from an Audi Q3 2.0 170hp to the new Mazda 3 with either 122hp or 150hp. Have we looked at the car yesterday and will make the days a test drive. The materials and even the entire interior for the price, simply the hammer. But what is the reliability at Mazda? Have now read on the Internet several times that the new models are often strikingly already with the r first HU have problems with suspension components? Is that true? The Audi once had a defect in the water pump in 8 years, costing about 400€, that’s it. Can you expect the same reliability at Mazda? Thank you in advance!

Hello first, I’m new here, hope someone can help me… So I’ve been a Mazda 6 Sport Kombi 2.0l Diesel Bj. 2004 A super nice car! Only working a few days are no CD ́s anymore. I had 3 CD ́s ind the changer. When I started the engine the CD changer gave me one CD after another. I then pushed LOAD and made one again. And now the problem: –> he doesn’t give me the CD anymore. –> he plays the CD again. he doesn’t accept new CDs –> he doesn’t respond to the eject button anymore or LOAD… Maybe one of you has an idea what could be there and how I can fix it. Then another question so by the way: Does anyone of you know if it’s possible to make the Mazda Mp3 possible? A Mazda dealer said that would only go from the facelift model. Thanks in advance for all of you answer!