MOTOR-TALK

Category: MINI Forum

  • Buy AWD 2 or all 4 tyres?

    Hello, Since the Mr._Nielsson and the switch selector have strangled the other treat quite quickly without a meaningful title, I ask here again: Do you have to exchange all four tires if the profile is too uneven in order not to accept consequential damage to the distribution gearbox? It is about the following: I deliberately did not buy a BMW 5-wheel (X-Drive) a few years ago, as this was exactly a problem. If the profile depth front axle to rear axle was too large The difference could have been caused by damage to the gearbox. Are such damage also known to the CX5? Small note: I had an accident on my Golf 4, in which a rear tyre was destroyed. When the vehicle was repaired, only one tyre was replaced. The other one still had about 50% profile, I had to pay for it myself. The new tyre was even another manufacturer, as the same manufacturer was not available.

  • PHEV Energy consumption (petrol/electricity) of your vehicle

    Hi, everybody, I’m going to make a new thread for this because this is going on in the huge general thread otherwise. I hope for a few long-term values of your PHEVs here. I now have nearly the 10,000 kilometers full and draw a line below the total amount. Please don’t get any values from a single original lukewarm ride in the Netherlands here, for example, I can’t start much with that personally. After 9,600 kilometres and 11 months, I am now lying at 5,99 liters of petrol plus 18,01 kWh on 100 kilometers. The values are from the meter of the wallbox and the tank station, so not from the on-board computer The car was not preheated since then the windows were always completely fogged and heating in winter 19 degrees, climate in summer 23 degrees. Usual daily driving profile 25 kilometers to work, mainly rural road and 20 percent city share. At weekend highway, but almost never more than 130 km/h. For my taste a little high the total consumption. Purely electric almost always Bai approx. 35 kwh / 100 kilometers, with petrol operation actually always over 9 liters. Overall I tried to drive mainly electric inside. I am curious how your long-term values look like. Greeting Tom

  • Need help with my 626 Coupe!!

    Yesterday I am proud owner of a 626 GD Coupe 2.0 90PS BJ ́89. Driving he does really well, especially since he has only 177tkm down. But I also noticed a few defects. -Tacho needle trembles -ventilation goes ne -Controlamp Wipe water always shines -Gurtschloss driver side goes ne -Temperature goes up in the stand(in traffic jam) Can someone tell me what the respective problems are and how they are eliminated?

  • 323 F – A good used man?

    Hello, I would like to buy a sporty Japanese coupe in February or March of the next year. For max. 2000-3000 €. I had actually fixed a Civic coupe ej2. If not my cousin from Austria would have come to visit. He has a 88 HP 323 F and I have to say the car is cool. Unfortunately, the 323 c is all the more ugly (my opinion) that I have to take a 5 doorr if I choose a 323 f. My questions are: How robust is the car(rust, processing) g)? What mileage is to be trusted with the engines? How cheap are they in maintenance (insurance of dad 30% )? Which engine is receptive? Are there specific diseases? I am grateful for any help MfG

  • PROBLEM! with the next to me to blow off the ampel

    PROBLEM! from the traffic lights to come! Hi…. I have a little problem there so if I stand at the traffic lights and in the first course still the first of the traffic lights comes this also fully exiting tuh leaves me my car in the 2 course and the next to me pulls me wech results = mitzubischi colt 1,5 maschine has pulled me today LOL 1 course to 5500umin 2 course falls the speed meter first far down bit he really travels up again I should drive with between gas a Iso during the change gas once fully press through (with kicked cubicle) ??? or do I do something else wrong???? my car makes me sad with something you hope you can give me some switchtips or something! PEACE

  • Engine 2.2 out of 626 and 929 identical?

    Hello! Question to the experts: Are the engines from 626 GD and 929 HC (2.2 liters) identical? Did they find different cylinder capacity (2169 and 2184 ccm) in both vehicles. Do the components fit one another? Cylinder head, manifold or suction bridge? Where are the differences except longitudinal, transverse installation? Thanks for information.

  • Purchase advice MAZDA 626 Dj.: 95/96

    Hello guys! Maybe you can help me. I currently have a Mazda 323 Sedan Bj.: 92, 75 HP. I am very satisfied with the car and with the engine power. Because I am actually a pure city driver, I don’t need a lot of HP, but just a driving kit. But since my Mazda is already coming to the end, I thought, no problem, bought a new or new old one. The Mazda 626 Diesel, Bj.: between 95 and 96 in the eye. I like and is a little bit more ch ur spacious. What are your experiences with the 626 and especially how does the 2 liter diesel machine work with 75 hp? Report. Thank you !!!!

  • Purchase advice: NA/NB for 3000 euros as a summer and fun vehicle?

    Hello dear forum community, One ahead away: An introduction including pictures of my current car and the cars I have driven before is still coming. I also upload a profile picture, which just didn’t work out. I have been driving a VW Golf 7 as a daily car all year round for almost 3 months. I have previously prepared my VW Golf 4 and the following BMW Z4 E85, but in everyday life something like that is simply impractical. The golf was extremely deep and the Z4 was simply not the only car all year round. Now it makes me itch again in my fingers… Now I have come across the Mazda MX5, which combines fun optics with longevity. The MX5 should only run in summer and only as a second fun car, because the golf is used all year round. However, the whole should remain in the financially manageable frame. I like the model NA best. The NC is too expensive, the NB would still be in question and I would prefer a NA because of the iconic optics. I don’t need a window lifter, airbags and climate. The less is in it, the less is broken. Budget is at a maximum of 3000 euros. Since the mileage of the car is apparently not so important also cars with up to 200000 km come into question. Performance best from 100, but also the 90 hp engine would be enough for me. That I don’t get for the money well-kept, top maintained car from 1st hand is clear to me. Nevertheless, the car should be rusty The top should also be tight and last for a while. Since I have a well-known car mechanic, reperatures would not be a big deal, as long as it is nothing big. I looked at a MX5 for almost 6000 Euro a few days ago, purely out of interest. I’m scared! This as a “top maintained” inserted specimen, which the flag dealer around the corner was standing, was optically so finished that I drove again immediately. Paint completely through, dents, scratches, top torn at the sides, interior worn out, several times stained, rear window milky. For such a car I would spend Vll 1000 Euro. Now the question: Can the whole thing be realized for my budget? I do not expect a new car, especially since I have car mechanics and car conditioners in my good circle of acquaintances. Greetings, Stefan

  • New Mazda 6! Cheap Amature Board. I’m shocked.

    Today I looked at the new and old Mazda 6. I am totally shocked by this terrible amaturary board. Those who came up with the idea at Mazda should be released immediately. I first got on the side of the car looked and felt. Amaturary board top soft foams back. Hold as it should be. Only negatively much immediately the hard plastic handbrake lever with cast seams in a car with leather equipment. When I entered on the driver side much me immediately on the the amature board top is different. So touched and SCHOCK! Genarbtes Hartplastik! Who comes to the crazy idea to change the material quality of a component. Simply cheap. That’s why the Mazda has now flown out of my wish list.

  • New vehicle problem

    Hello community, since there are many people with many experiences here, I hope to get good advice here. I have always driven Mazda until now. From the 626-2,2l , 323F-1,9l to the current problem car 6. I have trusted Mazda quality. Now no more. (Believe me, it’s not easy to remain objective but I’m trying) The problem: I bought a Mazda6 Combi(2,0l Diesel) in March and I brought it to the workshop five weeks ago! The car makes a noise as if the engine or It was there from one day to the other! Nothing unusually done. Only a full tank at ARAL the evening before. The workshop/Mazda still do not know what is broken, and it stretches in length without something new happens. What else can I do? The whole is unreasonable and a poor certificate for MAZDA and its quality! You only have a guarantee on paper, for competent help you can wait at Mazda forever. Except someone knows I’d be very happy about insider tips!