Category: MINI Forum

Hello together, I wanted to ask if you can install a MX 5 NB rim with an ET20. The car is not lowered and I personally did not do before bodywork on the car, because it is in a collector’s condition. The Mazda is currently still on the standard chassis. Lowering I think with ET20 without bodywork will be so or so difficult possible. The rim has the dimensions 15 x 8. Do you have any experience with such a low inlet I have already seen some posts on the internet where ET20 rims were installed, but bodywork was necessary. This is the first “real car” I would like to install on my car, so please don’t take too hard if something is wrong, because I’m not a trained mechanic. Thank you in advance for all the answers!

Hello guys. It’s about the Mazda RX 8. I find it really great from the look and the driving behaviour and would now have the opportunity to get to a good one quite cheaply. However, since I have “no” experiences with this vehicle, I would have some questions in advance. First of all, the exact data: Mazda RX 8 / Built 12.02.2004 / 192 PS / Euro 4 Questions: – Since he has no displacement indication in the usual sense, how are the taxes measured and how high are the taxes – How high is the consumption really (indicated it is about 11.5 liters) but I’ve already heard something of 15 – 16 liters, and that on average – is that true ? – How are the experience values with Macken / problems – Is here one or more things known, which break quickly or / and more often, which are expensive ? I know many question, but also everything very important, “”before””” one buys such one. I am everyone for as exact as possible information / A Greetings, Christian

Evening I need some help with the application of rims for my MX5 NA. The car is completely original only a suspension and rims. The rims are the JR 16 inches but the TÜV does not let them pass. UmbrellaMotorcorp also does not. Which rims are to be recommended without widening. Similar tips are also desirable.

Good evening together, I’m really depressed at the moment, because my MX-5 has been having a problem for months now: the idle speed. First of all: The car drives quite normal, pulls well and everything is great. Only the idle speed is in both cold and warm condition (and we talk here after no matter how many kilometers driving time) every time at 1300 revolutions and fluctuates extremely. It also sounds totally unround, you always hear totally that it turns so high and you hear that fluctuate naturally I have also not listed a video on YT under, so you can listen to the whole thing – and watch: https://youtube.com/shorts/It4T34-031I I have already checked / exchanged the following: – False air tested with a fog machine (everything dense, smoke didn’t come out anywhere) – Coolant temperature sensor replaced – crankshaft sensor replaced – crankcase ventilation including all hoses – replaced a torn hose at the top of the valve cover – ignition cable + ignition coil + Spark plugs exchanged – The screw for the idle speed is completely turned in, I can’t turn it in any further. As soon as I turn it out only minimally, it turns even higher looking forward to answers.

Hello, I’m new here in the forum because I can’t really answer a crucial question myself. Short to me: I’m still quite young(Despite the awakening!), the MX 5 did a lot to me, I don’t want to do big tuning but just a slightly different Daily Driver. My real purchase decision still has a long time. I don’t know that the MX 5 is meant for my project, but I still think it would be very cool if it were feasible. I don’t ask for a discussion about It’s just my question if it would work in a practical sense. Now to the actual question: Is it possible to use a lightweight roof tent (e.g. front runner Feather-Lite) in conjunction with a hardtop on a MX 5 NB without damaging the car or affecting the lifespan? Does anyone have a permissible roof load for such a hardtop? I am a mountain biker or cyclist and would like to continue this. But also Camping b Two road trips are on my future list. I know that the MX 5 is not made for it and I would probably be better supplied with another vehicle but it really tempts me to compete with all my outdoor activities with a MX 5. I would be very happy if someone could help me here and I am very grateful for any help. Mfg

Hello dear forum members, I am Luis, 18 years old and have been enthusiastic about cars since I can think. I write my Abitur this year or have written it and have thought that I would like to celebrate something. I want to invest the money that I have saved and worked out over the years in a timeless and fun car, which also brings me a smile in my face in many years. Of course, I stopped right at the MX-5 NA. He is a member of the forum. This means that I would also be great for a few vintage car rallyes, which I have been participating in since I was little with my father. Now I thought that I would ask a little bit for advice here in the forum. The community will certainly know a lot more about the cars than I can ever acquire. First of all, I am interested in the somewhat new year of construction (1995- ), since these are mostly already sc I also heard from various sources that the 1.8 with 131hp makes a big difference in the overall impression of the car. The 1.8 and ABS are not purchase-non-buying criteria, however they would be desirable. I don’t think these criteria are very important to me, but I also noticed from a source that the different years of construction are a bit inferior. I would like to know if all this is true. I would like to ask you more precisely: what exactly (except rust etc.) should I pay attention to. Are the years of construction irrelevant or are there really as big differences as is often claimed? And in general: is it worth looking for one at today’s prices at all, or should one still have a w I also think it’s not easy to find a good (clean) copy, which has not been completely tinkered. So you should know someone who wants to get rid of an MX-5 for a fair price, then come on! I’m happy about every feedback!

Hey, I wanted to get this car as my first car, but my parents put a dash through my head and gave me a Corsa. Now it’s finally time to catch up with my dream and after I had it really grinded in the last few years, I’ve been really busy with this car lately. I found a lot about the rust problems and therefore a question for you: How much rust is manageable with the NB? It’s already over when I discover rust bubbles at the bike runs, because then I have to replace the entire bike run? Quite apart from whether the money that I would put in the car was in the end economically total grütze. I want exactly this model and I want to make exactly this chic. However, if I buy a car for 3-4 thousand €, I don’t like to hit another half on top of it for a complete rust removal of the problem. ielleicht only so extremely bad before with the rust? Need urgent advice :,) Greetings, Lucas

Hello together, we bought a 2000 NB, it was really good there only what makes me stutty: the belt disc has an unround run. The recording on the crankshaft has actually been very quiet and only the disc has been iced. Have heard of the problem so far only at the NA, you know if there is enough exchange of the belt disc or will have something there. Can it be that I only speak well, because it has already been bought but: according to my logic the recording would have the pulley on the crankshaft also beautified if it were this one. There I also get better instruction. Thanks already for your help Justin

Hello together, we drove our MX5 BJ 2000 with the 1.6 engine back home yesterday. We noticed that it hardly has any power. Since I have only driven turbo so far, I am used to it that they come only later, but with the vacuum cleaner should be something noticeable already before the 2.2k revolutions or? (also about it he is very sluggish) We have previously removed the spark plugs and looked what they look like. The result is just sobering.. Just like the candles in the The two candles, which are very dark, run over the same ignition coil, could the error lie here, how can one test this more precisely if it is because of it? Exactly this ignition coil has only just come new from the previous owner, but unfortunately no manufacturer is on it. I also looked into the cylinders with the endoscope once, I could not find any grooves or scratches, the careers made a good impression. I have to get a replacement here and then measure the compression.. Ignition cables, spark plugs and ignition coil are all already ordered, but would like to know what you say about this.

Hello, I own a MX5 Na 1990 kW 85. (was a gift, not rideable) the following problem: When lit only the battery light lights up nothing else and a quiet ticking can be perceived in the engine compartment. The engine does not start.(Starter also turns) the following has been done up to now: -All fuses controlled = work – A second control unit was connected by the previous owner –> the same problem The car behaves with but also without connected Is there a way to find out if the ECU is working at all? Would I look forward to a feedback. Lg Hassan