Category: MINI Forum

I used to ask a question about a heater from webasto, and today I had for the first time a problem with it, I set the heater as always at 5 o’clock, drive at 5.30 o’clock to work, so when I was at the car was the car warm, but the car did not jump, because the battery was too weak, did not do anything, has turned only very weak the starter, the clock from the heater has seen everything at 0, well I’m dan with my father’s car to work drive, after which was back home the car jumped on again, I drove around a bit afterwards I went to a free workshop which tested the akku, and told me that this would be still in order, I should put the heater next time on 15min who the dan again left the akku empty should I install a bigger one, what do you say to it??? I mean up to now this had always worked, ok this morning was also a bit colder as usual, how long do you leave the your stan heating so run??? ps. is still the first battery inside.

Hello everybody, I’m starting to despair. Drive a Mazda 6 BJ 2003 Diesel 136 HP. For several months I’ve had the problem that the engine (also on the highway) simply runs out. I couldn’t actually notice a power loss of the engine. When starting it sometimes happens that it is a bit jerking and not running round after a few km that settles again. Last week it came to the first time I needed about 30 min before the engine started. obleme already had? The workshop can’t help me at all and requires 25 euros each time for error reading. Thank you for your help.

You love, I have great hope that you can help me. I drive a Mazda 6 GG1 2L 108 KW Bj. 2008 It was converted at Mazda factory with the Autogasanlage of Teleflex GFI. It is 2 years old and has 164 TKM. The first of the 4 gas lines conduction pulls false air and causes false ignition on the cylinder 1. This has the consequence that the car jerks and does not bring any performance, especially on the mountain to notice or to overtake. Therefore, I want to with all 4 connections d Unfortunately, I have not been able to find a workshop in Munich where I can get help. Who could name a workshop or workshop in the Munich region that could solve my problem? I would be very grateful to you for that.

Hello, I have a Mazda 626 built in 1999, in itself a fine vehicle, but now I have a problem with the warning lamps – namely, these lights shine. In the workshop the brakes were then renewed at the front only blocks, rear windows and coals. The mechanic has checked so far and assured me that the suspension and the brakes are in order mechanically. So I am happy, get in – all lamps off and start the same game already after 10 minutes, Brem warning lamp and ABS are on….. Does anyone have any idea how to tackle the problem without having to spend a lot of money on expensive workshops?

I have the following problem with my Xenon burners… On the left (driver side) the burner of my M6 BJ 03/2004 “below” stops, while the right adjusts quite normally, depending on the loading condition. The problem occurred the first time after the tyre change. Even after several days no change. -^-> Visit to the friendly MH: error memory read out, EVERYTHING i.o.! ECUs are OK! …could hang the engine of the height adjustment, I should drive a bump road, v ichlicht it works, otherwise a new headlight housing… (450€) HAAAALLLOOO? Well, it worked anyway! Holperstraße long ironed and the headlight height adjustment worked again perfectly. …BIS… My car was last for inspection! After that I had the same problem again, only that the trick with the holper track did not work anymore! Did transitional way by screwdriver the light width “adapted”. (but is not permanent condition) I assume that possibly. a sensor for the loading condition is defective. But where does this one sit which one? CAN MIR IRGENTWHERE TIPS BEING OR BETTER WITH FUNDED KNOWLEDGE FAITH?

In the hope that this thread will not be filled with children’s diseases, it will help future buyers buy used cars. In autumn the current series will be 1 year old. Who has already had to visit the workshop unplanned or is not satisfied with the materials after X-Km? PS. In order not to burst the topic, please don’t post any: “Everything is OK with me” posts.

Hello, my Mazda 323F BJ (built in 1998) 1.5 L 16 V has been running badly for a few months. It started with the fact that the increasingly bad gas assumed during acceleration and sometimes even started to jerk. Performance has also had less than usual. On the highway was partly only about 80-100 kmh possible. After testing the ignition, spark plugs etc. I got a tip to look for the air mass meter. On the Internet I bought a new (from UK) but no original part. The performance of the car was suddenly normal again and drove perfectly. Unfortunately, this made a new mistake. When I was standing at the apmel, the car started to spin (permanent up and down), so that the engine even strangled itself from time to time. However, everything was fine when driving. As a result, I got another air mass meter. Original part, but needed. Since then, the engine did not spin anymore in idle, but the car felt a little less again (very much like This means that if I am standing at the traffic light and want to start driving, the coupling can only come after 2-3 seconds, because the speed often drops for 1-2 seconds when giving gas. With an auto mechanic friend I then stuck off the labda probe during the further troubleshooting and see there, the car suddenly ran perfectly again without jerking and also took on decent gas. o… logically bought a new Lambda probe and installed with much anticipation. The error has remained however. I slowly get the creep!! I would type now on ECU because the error is different with all 3 air mass meters and also because of the behavior with on- or off-set Lambda probe. I previously searched in vain in the engine compartment and behind the glove compartment for it. (will certainly be under the steering column, will look again) Can I have a used steering wheel just buy and exchange in this way? Do I have to pay attention to the exact name? Does anyone have a different idea? Maybe some temperature sensor ? (the errors occur more often when the engine is really warm) Thank you in advance jabopeti (Peter)

Hello together, my Mazda 3 (E-SkyactiveX, 186hp, 2021) I have now been working for about a month. At first I had always activated the distance tempomate (CruiseControl) and used it often. I was a bit disappointed by the consumption, because it should be a rather economical engine. For a few days now I drive without distance radar and consume significantly less. Actually in the area I had imagined. I can’t explain what this is about. A lot of electricity, or it’s because of the control of the speed. I’m not really excited about the control by the way. It often slows down unnecessarily, or accelerates very late. Of course, the different consumption can also be a coincidence, or I just drive more economical without a cruise control. Maybe someone else has already noticed that, or am I an individual case 😉 The consumption has dropped by about 1L/100km from 6.5 to 5.5. That’s what I find extreme.

Hello dear Mazda 3 forum! I am currently playing intensely with the idea of replacing our small Corsa with a slightly larger and more comfortable compact car. I like the Mazda 3 very well, I already had a test drive with the Skyactiv-X 2.0 M hybrid (i.e. still the variant with 180 hp), engine would be sufficiently strong so far, transmission also liked me and there are most equipment snaps that I like. Important were because again like with me in the previous vehicle for example HUD, matrix light, distance tempomat, 360° camera – only the seat ventilation would I miss a bit, but now well. For that finally NO touch operation again, I would look forward to that again. Now I have a few questions, of which I will certainly ask the Mazda dealer directly, but some would also interest me from your vehicle owner glasses. First: It would be a new car, then correspondingly to the e-Skyactiv X 2.0 M hybrid with automatic. Apologies for the long novel – vllt. you have experiences for this or more generally still, or tips on what to pay attention to when ordering or later in operation. I am looking forward to every answer! Greetings, a nice holiday still and a hopefully long weekend farQ

Hello, I love the time with the above car, the exact dates are: EZ 02/2008, 91.000 km, 77 kW/105 hp, manual gearbox, petrol, 2 previous owners The car dealer wants to have 5900 euros, well, that’s also a negotiation matter… I wanted to ask if this vehicle has familiar flaws/weaknesses/problems, what I should pay special attention to during the visit and test drive, and if there are any things that I should ask the dealer specifically during the visit. I am not exorbitant, or what do you think? What actual consumption do I have to reckon with (is of course heavily dependent on my driving mode, but I usually glide with the traffic)? For your answers thank you in advance