Category: Mitsubishi Forum

Hello! I’m new here. I’ve read the articles here many times. I recently bought a Mitsubishi Carisma 1.8 GDI and now have the following problems. When I wanted to change the spark plugs I noticed that around the candles was oil. But only in the 2 middle spark plugs. The outside (left, right) are both dry. I type that some gasket has to be changed. But I don’t know which. And the 2nd problem: The speed always fluctuated with me he only in the empty run. What can this be about?? Dirty throttle flap?? already in front of many thanks!!!

Hello guys, for some time now my E50 has been running out suddenly when the ADAC was there he jumped on again and again, now no more. The ADAC has measured and determined that no ignition spark is coming, but where signals arrive from the control unit (he pulled off the contacts and held on a multimeter) Then treated the plugs with contact spray and the engine ran again, unfortunately only for about 2 kilometers. After analysis in a workshop, to which the ADAC then closed me The remaining 10% “could” be the immobilizer. What would you do? I tend to read more, but have no idea about the quality of the new replicas? Does anyone have experience with it, if it also lasts 3 years, would it be enough for me, the car is no longer the youngest (Bj. 93)? Is it difficult to change the part yourself? Is there anything to consider besides the order of the ignition cables? I need an ignition distributor T6T58271. Greeting G321

Hello, I have a Mitsubischi Eclipse D20 (BJ. 1994) and a few minor problems with it…. I hope you can help me..: 1: The passenger window can no longer be opened. The window can not be opened/closed by any of the pre-installed window lift buttons. (driver or passenger side) 2: When you get into the car from the passenger side the interior light goes on. But if the driver gets in (driver side) then you can wait forever for the enlightenment… … 3: A 3rd mancko of the car is the central locking.. Although it works (at the whim) but one is not in agreement here whether one can lock from both sides of the door up and up.. I lock up on the driver side, the passenger side is also unlocked (sometimes not). I lock from the driver side to, the passenger side remains open. If I lock up from the passenger side or p At the driver’s door nothing at all. 4: The trunk falls on one’s head, these are the dampers.. Has someone else got such dampers somewhere???? (have read the same case in the forum, but our tool box does not allow the steam conversion from Corsa to Eclipse, my expertise and my linguistic understanding of the simplest instructions also not, i.e. it must be new ones.}}} the website that was listed there is no longer available…) 5: In the case of braking actions At higher speed, the steering wheel flutters + strange noises…. (Actually, the braking system was completely checked by a specialist workshop but maybe someone had the big problem and can tell me his solution) We think it’s the ABS or the brake power amplifier….. I hope you can help me, I’m very desperate…. The small problems have it in themselves ICh wish an accident-free 2009 so a happy new Misterxjunior

Hello, my Abblendlich no longer functions – I have already checked the relays – stable, remote (if I cross the relay manually from the abblend light otherwise light hooves) and the Neblers go. At the relay (I have already exchanged through) and on the fuses it is not. I suspect a defect in the switch? Can one disassemble the steering stick switch and possibly repair it or do I have to buy a new switch (is certainly crazy expensive??) Is it allowed somewhere in the amature board e to install the normal toggle switch in order to turn on the light or does the Tüv there problems if the examiner does not find the light switch the same?? Or can I put the Abblenlich possibly on the standing – with standing, one can not drive anyway and absolutely do not need it?! Give me a hint?!! Gruss G321 — Mitsubishi Galant 2000GLSi, E50, 101kw, Bj. 8/1993

Hey! In principle the question is already in the headline .. So I would be interested if it is basically possible e.g. to mount the front apron of the Evo X on the body of the current Lancer Sports Sedan? Unfortunately I could not yet examine the Evo in real terms, but only from photos, but it looks to me as if the fit to the body should be identical? How would that look with expert opinion & co? Is not normally intended to mount it on the “normal” Lancer. I like the Evo very well .. also inside .. but with 50,000 euro it is simply in an area that is impossible for me. And the almost 300 hp doesn’t have to be either.

Hello together, my partner and I may want to buy a CZ3 with 95 HP. We have already done a first test drive, but have a few questions about the car: How often does the car have to be inspected? In “Ciao.de” I have read that in the first three years you have to have an inspection every 10,000 km to maintain the guarantee. Is that true?? Since we are many times (up to 30000km a year) the inspection costs are also interesting. are these on average? Basically we drive quite moderately. Our old car, an A2 with 75 petrol hp, we have always driven around the 6 liters to 100km. The consumption thus corresponded to the brochure. Can one assume there also from the Colt? Our current car, a Ford Fiesta, needs despite moderate driving mode about 10% more than predetermined. What is the driving behavior in winter? Since we live in Upper Bavaria, does it have here sometimes a few cm more snow than in rest of Germany? Colt somehow makes the optical impression as if they did not last long (although I also sat very comfortable with 1.87m size and just under 90kg). Has someone had experiences with it? So. Questions about questions. We are grateful about every answer and would also be very happy about tips and buying impulses.

Hello everyone! My girlfriend bought a colt 1.3 Bj. 95 55kw Schrägheck yesterday and is unhappy: engine suddenly takes on gas badly under load, or if very BEHUTSAM gas is given, he turns ok, kickdowns and jerks at only a start. Between (feelings) 3 to 5000 tours everything seems ok, unless you give full throttle. Then as if one of the cylinders only sometimes participates in the work. Feels like if one of the cylinders d The sparks are equal (weak) in the idle mode. Timing belts have been changed before, spark plugs are new (says workshop), distribution cap and contacts look ok, ignition cables are the same. It seems as if the very right cylinder mutes (so not in the direction of travel, but when you stand in front). Distributor itself looks as if it has been changed before, so newer than the engine. Someone had the same problems?? I (Laie) would have had on Ven tilanstellung, hair crack in the distributor cap, wrong spark plugs, old ignition cable type. Or injection nozzle? Petrol pump? For only ONE cylinder? Still to be noted: Car has stood a year before. Km stand 130000. We are grateful for ALL hints!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Also for addresses in the web or Munich. Thanks, Sebastian (the ne duck drives and does not know such problems)

Hello, I have the following problem: My Pajero V20, v6, 3.0 liter petrol, 150 hp, year 96, went out at idle at operating temperature again and again, because the speed was too low (less than 700 rpm). At cold start it ran normal (increased idle – as far as I see it is a cold start controller which raises the speed). But as soon as it had run warm it went out again. When the air conditioning system was switched on it did not, because then the idle speed was automatically increased. But otherwise always. I then increased the idle speed at the adjustment screw of the throttle valve. This was also so wonderful some time – only it was slowed down again from month to month (without which I had changed something) in the idle mode until it went out again. I have now already set the idle speed 2 times at the adjustment screw of the throttle valve higher. And again and again the idle rate is slowed down over time until it goes out. Now I am almost in the final position with the adjustment screw. I have to find the real cause right away. I have read that there is some servo motor. If it is, where exactly does it sit, what does it cost (someone might have needed such a thing?). Or what else could it be for a mistake? -brazilv20

Hello I bought a Galant E50 2.0 V6 switch EZ:04.1996 Purchased with 49000,1 hand, check booklet Well maintained,Opa dangers and everything done, inspections and wear parts e.g. tooth grate 2003 Grandpa just ^-^ For 2150 Euro.Was already very cheap ^^ Unfortunately only has front light front damage Browsing bumpers straps and the upper sheet metal mask, does someone happen to have to sell it?? (°-^) Now I only have the problem I have no experience with a G alant. Only with a Lancer GTI from my brother(suspicious) Where does he have weaknesses?? Unfortunately I didn’t really find anything under search, only from the successor who probably should have many rust problems that the E50 also has?? What about the hydro tugs?? I find personally that he sounds a bit funny for 6 cylinders ^-^; not the sound of the pot which is ingenious (^-°) I mean so engine noises!!! As said always in a Mitsubishi contract workshop. So I don’t think that there is something d (Hope I) Thanks already in advance. MFG tenso

Hello So I drive a Mitsubishi Lancer bj.97 1.3l Gl. I bought a 2 way alarm system and already installed works great. Only was there still a relay for the radio start with it. That must according to instructions between the plus cable that comes from the petrol pump Ralei, however I can not find this and also erlich not exactly where I could look. Under the rear seat is a cover under it I think the thing for the petrol display is sitting, in any case there is a stec It’s nice if someone could help me. Here’s another picture of the installation instructions.