Category: Mitsubishi Forum

Hello, at that time I installed a battery that is probably too small in the L300. Now this is completely destroyed. I then added a new battery with 70AH. It fits in like this (with a lot of tricks). Now I get my L300 again wonderfully let off but the control unit for example lets the speed when braking and clutch stepping into the cellar rush. Partially then even the battery charge control light or the car goes out. aar seconds and finds the correct idle speed. At the next traffic light stop it is the same again. Several times I tried the procedure. 10 minutes run without a consumer, then 90 seconds run out and then with all consumers 10 minutes run. Had also worked well one or three years ago. Only now he somehow doesn’t want to. Also again disconnecting the battery brought nothing. The friendly only meant that he then had to expand the seats elaborately to the Only then would he have the possibility to manually raise the stationary gas. But that costs and is somehow unsatisfactory. The L300 finds its speed, only a few seconds too late. So it can only be due to the control unit, right? What do you do? Just continue driving – maybe it will work on its own at some point? Does anyone have a tip that can be done by themselves? H E L P – please.

I bought a multimeter to test my old or also the new car battery. Since I am layman I ask therefore, which value is important for the start of the car. Is the volt number the important number for testing how good the battery is still or when to recharge, or which value I have to read. In the measurement A (direct current) I get no value and if I fly around on measurement up to 10 A the sparks. Would be great if one of me this for unknown I have measured V DC voltage once, with the new battery is 12.93 and with running engine 14,53 With the old battery, which now stands a few days in the basement, the indicator jumps like wildly high and down to then eventually stabilize at 10.9. Thank you for the info!!!

Hi mornings I have cold startprobl. if the car is warm or already running then it starts well. What can this be? the Space Wagon shakes at the cold start and bucks for 1-4 sec. after that he also does not take gas to the first 500m seems to me as if he has such holes, grins difficult to explain. afterwards he runs wonderfully. Waran can do this ? Starter? Greetings

Hello, my Colt has a strange driving behaviour when driving open. In unevenness the car trembles, which is also noticeable on the steering wheel. As if one or more shock absorbers are completely worn out. But can’t actually be, the car is new. If the roof is closed, it drives quite normal. Today, after some re-checking on my part, new tires have been installed. It may be that the driving behavior has improved a little bit. But the way is not trembling. Do you have other convertible driving he did the same with your Colt???

hello together, for 10 days I own a colt 1.1 inform, model from 2004,(5? generation), EZ 2008 in Spain on MMC, bought as a year car in Germany. I know this generation and the type of cars almost not at all. have driven for years mazda 323 S ez 1996- quite robust and reliable, but not economical, besides no air conditioning and more and more often need repair… it was a painful separation… my colt is very sympathetic, but getting used to it. needy. a little too weak with 75hp, but it works. however, it comes to me after Mazda as a toy pre- also fragile somehow. I hope to have made a good choice. shocking for me some reports from www. sounded that this model quickly roasts and falls apart at all. on the forum I could already find a lot of interesting things to colt. would be quite nice if someone wrote something concrete about this model. what does the colt with ez 2004 he MfG?

Hello, need a professional advice! I drive a Galant 2.4 GDI with 150 hp (as a combi).This consumes about 14 liters Super, which I find very hard for a GDI!.For this the oil consumption is not from bad parents about 1 liter 0W40 to 1000 km, that’s up to the money!Have already cleaned the throttle valve and suction bridge and the AGR closed.No result!!What can this be???

Tach together, would there have been a little question for interest 😉 I drive a V6 EA0, and how to know is the braking system, how to say, a little undersized? Although I already have the 15″ system in it, but as I said, it is not exactly the yellow of the egg… Is it possible to theoretically convert the brake from another vehicle, or does it fit in from another Mitsu possibly a larger brake system? Maybe even without changing the wheel hub at the front? Oh yes, I’m talking here at first m al only from the front axle 😉 Thanks already in advance, MfG Ande

Hello, my wife would like to have a Swift 1300 3doors. I tend to be more like a Mitsubishi Colt 3door 1.3 Inform. You like the Swift better and the price is also quite close to each other. Now, of course, what are the experience values with your Colts? Are you satisfied with the processing? How are the inspection intervals and are the inspections expensive? (e.g. to adjust valve play etc.?) How satisfied have you been with the wear of tires/brakes and d the verb, in normal driving mode? Maybe one or the other can also say something about insurance costs, so that one can get a picture? Another thing: Which type has the 1.3 Inform ? Then I can compare easier with the insurances so far my wife has a Micra 1.0 Bj 2000. An incredibly sufficient and inexpensive car. Filter, candles and 10W40 oil change have cost me now just 60 Euro and the consumption is also good at 5.5 to 6 l. I have set the same thread in the Suzuki forum, then I can compare well. I thank you for your answers in advance.

Hi have three fat problems , I hope you can give me couple tips . It is the Space Wagon N30 Bj 94 98KW ,circuit Have Quitting Brakes Front ,if I press this cage , Is there a trick to get this change without expanding it and lubricating it with Anti Quitsch Paste ? And if I turn right while driving (in bends grin ) , I have a continuous shimmering squeak , Hmm whether this comes from the brakes , Think wheel bearings rather not ? Is it possible to get the circuit more common?, my hacks a little bit bit heavy. On the staggered, or on the circuit in the inside under the console greases? Do you know your pair of tricks to fix these errors? Or are the familiar diseases? There is no book like How do I help myself or something, because I would like to do some things myself. In itself a great car goes well, and consumes less than my previous Mondeo. Now in the city about 10 L, on the track at 130 about 8 L. Find ok with the old Möre. Only on the train from 120Kmh pretty loud, will buy me damp plates and the under the engine hood gossip,Vieleicht brings that something.Lach Gruss and thanks in advance

Hi, I still have a little special question, recently I tried to change the timing belt of my Hyundai Pony… Engine: Year of construction 93, replica of Mitsubishi Colt, 1.5l, 83PS, GLSi, ECI-Multi (Type No. 8252,313) … everything worked quite well up to a certain point, the Servo Punpe..Lichtmschine etc. folded away, the wedge belt removed…and the upper part of the two-part cover could also be easily removed…so far… …but from there it didn’t go any further. ..in order to remove the lower cover I would have had to remove either the pulley of the water pump or that of the crankshaft…(which I did not manage) …if any of you had experience with this type of engine and subject, it would be awesome if you could tell me which disc and how to remove it… Thanks in advance 🙂