Category: Mitsubishi Forum

Hello and help! Maybe someone can help me?! I have a Mitsubishi Sigma Bj. 91. In January the cuffs of the drive shafts (drive shaft pleat cover) were renewed at the front right and left as well as the two rear stabi bushings. Since the removal on both sides was apparently very difficult, according to the workshop “strongly hammered”. On the right side the thread of the drive shaft was sanded. After the repair the following errors occurred: 4 weeks later, the following errors occurred: The light of the traction control lights up after a few minutes of driving, flashes until the engine is switched off. Was then at the workshop, the following errors were read out: ABS: 32 wheel sensor at the front left and TCL (traction control): 34 steering wheel se nsor. The answer of the workshop was that the steering wheel sensor had to be changed (it could not be learned) and because of the ABS everything had to be expanded again to look (but at my expense). A few days later: the car can no longer be “up/down” (in the sigma you can adjust the altitude level, from 160 km/h it automatically lies lower etc.) and at the front right there are sounds (metallic “crack noise” when steering or if you are looking at The noise comes from the area of the fender at the front right and also occurs when you “swivel” the car by hand. All these problems occur since the repair, before I had no faults. I would be very happy if someone could give me tips. Thank you in advance and many greetings M205PS

hello , the following I have in front of me a Galant kombi Bj: 97 with 136 ps or so to buy . now I wanted to know what it looks like with the consumption , and which machine is better of the durability and so . 2. 0 or yet the V6 ? there are other problems with this model ? would be really grateful , if someone could help me further . so best thanks already . mfg.micha

Hi to all, I will soon make my driver’s license, or will be beaten to make him. for this reason one inevitably makes thoughts about the choice of the first car. I am lucky that my grandparents will pay me the car and also a whole while will take over the maintenance. the insurance runs over my mother, since she is already 55% (or so). since I always found the lancer evo IX (once as the X becomes) very interesting, I wanted to think about it. I do not want to play racers, but just because I have heard only good about the car in terms of vehicle control etc. Greetz.

Hello! Last Saturday I bought a Carisma 1.8 GLS BJ.97, because my girlfriend is of the opinion that my Honda Prelude BA4 is too narrow for a growing family. I am not of this opinion..grins..but well.. Women are always right!And we our peace!!! Well my questions: When I drove over land last night, I noticed that I could not find the ashtray in the dark. Is that part not illuminated? Or can someone give me an info about what kind of light bulb w I would be very grateful if I could experience tricks and tricks so that I can enjoy the car for a while. What do I have to pay attention to?? Since I’m an enthusiastic fan of Japanese car ́s (have now the 3rd Prelude) I’m actually sure I didn’t buy any crap. I’d be happy to learn a lot about my new, used car. mfG hedifx

Hello, in October at E bay I bought a koplmpl. set of aluminium for my l 200. When the wheels came, the whole 8 mm profile were less on the tires, when I cleaned them in then they were totally eaten. Then I wrote to the seller, they were sold top condition without damage without scratches. The seller denied the condition, offered him photos, refused. Then he offered to take back and I should pay the total shipping costs of 140 € all I had then applied for buyer protection and the seller did not give me his address (phone number I had) also he remained at his rejection, of teitweise shipping costs. Since I should keep the wheels ready for an expert report according to E- bay, I also had to buy new winter tires, because the old ones had run off. Now E-bay gives me the buyer protection, because I have requested discount price, because it is not really sense to send the wheels again and I have the un on this platform what to buy, with high shipping costs, should you rather leave in my opinion or what do you think?

Hello everyone, I would like to renew my knowledge about parts of maintenance. One forgets a lot if one does not do something for too long. 1. What should be taken into account when changing oil? I would first open the drain screw, let it “run out” first, then remove the oil filter and also let it run out. If everything is outside, use a new filter and new sealing rings for filters and drain screw and then after everything is available again, the max. amount of oil a fill the car and leave the car up for a quarter of an hour. (I don’t know why, but that’s how I did it last time. How much oil can I fill in the 2.0 L with 133 Ps automatic? 2. Because of the brake in the front it is clear: Do not cover a topic and simply push the caliper back with the special tool normally, like with a pipe tong (is that so?) But back? Do you have to turn back there? and you have to pay attention to the hand brake? 3. Can the automatic oil also be uncomplicated change rt (I’ve never done it myself) That’s what it should have been for now. I haven’t done it for a while and would rather ask before nothing works. Thank you very much for your help and a good evening.

Dear Mitsubishi friends, I have a (small) problem with my Mitsubishi L300 (built in 1991, 90hp): Once it has reached operating temperature (after about 15 kilometers), I turn it off and want to start it again, it does not start. I have already renewed the battery, the distributor cap, the distributor fingers, the spark plugs, the ignition cables, the ignition coil and the Zünsschloss. I am at the end of my wisdom.

My questions are under the name Blackdriver: Purchase advice Pajero Pinin 2.0 here in the forum I didn’t find it good. Help me, otherwise I won’t buy a Mitsubishi.

Hello, I have already read some articles about Lambda probes here, but unfortunately I could not find an answer. After my check engine lamp started to light up I had a diagnosis made in the contract workshop. The result: Lambda probe over (running capacity 165TKm). So it seems normal that it comes now. However, the friends only want for the probe 250€ + VAT. + installation, which I find plentiful expensive – I prefer to put myself under the aut 1. Which company? Bosch or NTK. The price difference is not large. 2. ox 104 or ox 104-b or 104-t – 4 lines must have them and be replaced, so much I got out. But is there anything else to consider? 3. Is it a problem to take a probe with open cable ends and continue to use the old plug? Or is there anything at the end of the original probe that drives the price up like that? would be grateful for your hints!! VG Ralf Galant E50,Bj.93,137PS otherwise not built a pure car for pure driving pleasure;-)

Hello friends, I have to change the brake fluid and the brake support at the rear (drum brakes) at my Space Star 1.3 BJ 1999. I have already done the change of the drum brakes, but since my car mechanic has retired, I have to change the brake fluid myself to save the workshop costs, now also the brake fluid and vent the brakes, because I also have to change the brake cylinders of the drum brakes at the rear due to leakage. hrlichen Anleitung be helpful, how I can do the home? So where do I start with renewing the brake fluid, where do I leave it first, at the front left or right….where do I escape first, at the front left or right, at the back left or right, etc., after renewing the pads and the liquid, how do I escape correctly? I am grateful for every tip.