Category: Mercedes G-Class Forum

I have been driving a ML 270 CDI for almost 8 years. I will be separated from the car for a short time or a long time. As a successor I have considered the G 320 CDI from the year 2006. Since after my Internet search only a very limited proportion of short body versions was sold, it will probably become a long version. What is the exact designation, 463 ***? What speaks for the car and what against? Does it make sense to buy a car in this price situation of private? With which chew I only had the 400 CDI in mind, but with the 400 CDI probably the same flaws on the drivetrain as with the W163, right? Where are the flaws on the vehicle and how does it look with rust overall on the G? What should be especially taken into consideration when buying used vehicles? Does any of you possibly have such a vehicle and could copy, borrow or sell its brochure and price list to me? I n which area does the actual fuel consumption in everyday operation move How is the classification in the insurance? Since I could not drive a G sample yet, here is the question about the difference in driving behaviour on the road in contrast to the ML. I mean the G is overall more uncomfortable, so harder than the ML? I hope you can help me in the decision making. Should one of you have such a car for sale, also to a defined later Time then send me a PN.

Hello dear community, with my G 300 TD there are always start problems when it is warm. So that it only starts when it has reached operating temperature, if you want to start it briefly, stops and the engine starts immediately after it starts. Even if you would gurgle it for minutes, at the first start (so if it is warm), it doesn’t start. Everything goes normal. Aglow Rele display etc……… Does anyone have an explanation for this? Greeting E.E.

Dear G-community, I am irritated! I bought a fully packed G 350 BT last week (20,000 km / 18 months old). I had a G 500 about 10 years ago and was really satisfied with the constant refueling (Munich Hamburg 3 x refuelling) and front disc changes (stone strokes – min. 2 discs a year). I found the car a cult object and with a purchase decision ggü. Range, Cayenne, etc was that you always drive a current model, at least from the outside and And not everyone drives a car like this……. Have now read me here 2 hours through the G-Forum and actually read through the bank only negative! Is the car really such a disaster? or is it individual cases – clearly negatives are reported always faster than positives. I am now really insured… .. I thought the old original rock was reliable… Greetings from Munich and a nice rest weekend!

I found the following and believe that it will also work for the G500!http://www.auto-tests-service.de/…/212_Manuals_Schaltprogramm.html from Mopf2014 there is no M anymore – but it should be software free to switch. Who can also change the button is only cosmetics. Will this also work for the G500? Before the first ones shout out “Ohhh the guarantee”, “Ohhh Mercedes has thought of something” “Ohhh the operating permit” – please only the feasibility not the Sin n comment

Hello together, at last he has arrived. A few pictures. Tomorrow he is probably admitted. I was allowed to leave the engine on. The sound is enormous. When starting: a short roar! After that a nice dull sonorous hum. At the gas: a small hurricane. Simply phenomenal! I don’t think I drive here sparingly. The sound is simply too good. I could not have left the radio. I wouldn’t have thought it (but all the supporters of the 500s were probably right). I Ch had already tried a G without a sports exhaust system. There are worlds in between. I’ve never had such a cool car. More pictures follow when I finally have the box. Fortunately, I cleaned my G350 over two hours yesterday. I just have to go through the washing machine tomorrow and can then switch. Greeting Tom

Dear G-meinde, I have finally fulfilled my dream and bought me a G-Class. At the beginning it was allowed to be the small 230er. Since the car has some problems, I have here a bit through the forum and think to be able to estimate some already already. Since here some members are really very well informed, I hope one of you lovers can give me a comment with to the one or another on the way. Point 1: The G consumes m.E. after too much, in the city over 2 If you don’t switch on the mountain, the car will even slow down. (Kickdown button probably also defective) Could the Lamba probe be?! Have read something from the emergency run program and the properties would fit the described problem. I will check candles, oils, air filters, LMM, distribution cap and jet force separately. Anyone else an idea? Point 2: The automatic transmission is basically good and fast, but when changing gear 3 to 4 the whole thing will slip. Have also read about a spring screw that should be replaced and if necessary a slight increase in the pressure in the gearbox. Anyone else’s idea? Point 3: The car has some game in the steering. By playing I mean that the steering wheel can safely turn 2-3 centimetres to the right, in which no reaction on the axle arrives. Which points should be checked then. Here is someone’s idea? For more information. I’m not a mechanic myself, but I’m not completely ignorant either. A friend is a master and now self-employed (leader at MB). I’d like to hire him to do this, but I know that not everyone at MB is really fit about the topic of G-Class. That’s why I hope to get some impressions and ideas for the above-mentioned things and thus to streamline the whole process. “The needle in the haystack can be found faster if you know about where it can be located. nte.” Thank you in advance. Greetings Nick

Hello “G” driver (m/w/d), had experienced the following situation several times and wanted to see if anyone else had that in this form. Auto G350d EZ 2018 245 HP Situation: Drive on AB, speed about 180, gas taken away wg. traffic. Speed 160, accelerator pedal kicked and no increase in speed. Also speed us. remains the same. Depends on 160 feeling as with switched on limiter. Gas removal. Tempo 140, pedal crossed. remains at 140 despite full throttle. Right track, Spe ed reduces to 100. Gas pedal to the sheet metal and see everything normal. Due to the sound background I think that the DPF has been cleaned and that has something to do with it. MB says it can be safe but they are not. No errors in the memory and also no other warning lamps. I moved the car now 28TKM and had the phenomenon about 4-5 x. Never longer than 2-3 minutes Otherwise everything is good. Does anyone know that? Greetings and beautiful rest week Werner

I opened a thread once, because otherwise I lose the overview myself: So, again from the front: My G270 cdi EZ 2004, squirts with fast acceleration. But only there, sometimes so much that it leaves a black wall standing. Meanwhile almost everything on parts was renewed, air filters, pressure converters, LMM, gas evaluators, all possible sensors, even the Turbo. AGR valve was also cleaned and checked (and is again properly closed after 1.5 years). It was imm it was a little better, but not as it should be (in my opinion at least). Then it could only be the suction tube, most likely the flaps worn, the storage knocked out, seals finished, etc. What did I do today? Exactly, gave me to it and dismantled everything. Poor frickelei, nothing for me, but I got it without a blast. Only: the suction tube looks good: no oil outlet, the flaps all healed, its storage is also good . And that with a mileage of 360,000 km. Sounds unbelievable, but is really like that. What else can it be? I desperately slow. Yesterday I was on the road in Hagen and there is an older gentleman next to me and insults me for the agony (I must have stepped on it properly before at the traffic light). Even if the gentleman overruled, I feel bad! Please, who else has ideas? Many greetings Carsten

…and that’s what I noticed with my 270cdi on the plastic on the front wall opposite the cylinder head damp spots. At first I didn’t think anything about it. Today wiped away with brake cleaner and driven, so 100km. Just look again and the moisture spots are back. Then curiously I removed the engine plastic cover and it is actually diesel. And indeed the diesel stands at the last injector and with the running engine it bubbles (small bubbles). , see picture)). Just pull injectors at the workshop and have them resealed? I can’t hear a hissing. Is that why my favorite problem of the agony could stir up, because that’s become stronger again for a few days (synchronously after I installed an original LMM, I suspected it until now, that’s why I even looked at it today)? Greetings Carsten

Hello, again and again I hear that the exhaust gas recirculators are defective with the G 400 CDI. Also with me, the engine was only more to drive in emergency run. I now can repair the parts without removal, a work of about an hour (because now I know how to do it) and saved me the cost of the new part (700 EUR) and the whole work of the exchange! The controllers have a plastic cap behind the back, which is sitting over the mechanics. They can be clipped down, then you can use the mechanics with Aluspray again (there are a lot of soot particles in there, because not everything is as dense as it should be). A few times with the hand moved, and already the part has been fine again. Let’s see how long this is going to work.