Category: Mercedes G-Class Forum

Has anyone ever dealt with installing an air suspension on the G-model, at least on the rear axle? I found enough information on the WE in the net, how the whole of campers and pickups can be retrofitted as an additional or main suspension, but unfortunately nothing of the G-model. Although the axle load here is lower than with the campers. The prices for a retrofit set with ABE start at approx. 400 €.

Hello dear G – mine would like to know what experiences you have with road tires of dimension 265/60 R 18 , must give me for my G 500 now new. Noise , rolling behavior , wear and tear etc.

Hello@all, after all here were so nice at the purchase advice…http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…g400-or-nen-alten-g240-t3048169.html … it goes on here now. A friend of mine has visited the car today for me and found it good. However, it takes another month until everything is done that the report for the H-mark can be done…. The first question concerns the wheel which hangs in the back and I would be interested in your opinion here: The question arises whether you can mount it or leave it away better and remove the holders and seal the screw sockets. Actually, I would like that and you would also have eleminated 2 places where you can rust. What else you should know is that the wheels are bigger than normal and Probably a problem could occur anyway if you put the holder and the wheel on it. So the core question is, is really something against letting go of the stupid wheel and welding the sockets (alternatively turning screws with rubber seal pure). Here are some more pictures. Thank you for your help!

Background : For about 4 years I have been travelling around EurAsia with a Chinese ‘G-verschnitt’ about 70,000km. However, I am more than dissatisfied with the robustness and reliability of the Fzg, which is why I might want to buy a G… My question: What about the robustness and reliability of the G, especially on a poor base? Is there anything better in this regard? And where are the ‘wound points’ of the G in terms of robustness and reliability? who or what is the most common? And how does the G eg cut compared to the Defender? I am grateful for every helpful hint… yongshi

Good day to the round, I have a question that no one has ever been able to say to me, but there are apparently no questions that you don’t get answered here. So why did the 350 BT diesel in the G 350 read 47 hp less in all other MB models (only 211 hp versus 258 in the ML 350 BT etc) ?

Hello together, I’m just about to get a G-Class, because I have an 8 week trip through Africa. However, I would like to have this car not only for this trip, but would also like to use it in Germany. For this reason I tend to a G400 CDI, because it also offers me a lot of “Germany suitability”. Does anyone have experience like it is to tour through Africa with a 400 CDi? Repairs, first-hand supply, susceptibility with high load I would be very happy about tips or experiences. Greeting Christian

Dear G-meinde A new G is about to be a diesel, a 350BT again. If I order in Dec, it will be there in May 2014 (Switzerland).Do you know when the next model change (Mopf) will take place and what changes are planned? New engine (Diesel)? Is it worth waiting with the order? Another question about the Distronic Plus – what are your experiences with it? Is this worth it? Thank you for your information / advice!

Hello, I’m close to desperation… My G Pur doesn’t start anymore. The history. It’s a 2009 edition PUR. 280 CDI. It’s only recently started via the emergency start button. According to ORC, this is due to a relay. The relay is ordered, but not yet there. In addition, I checked all the fuses in the center console. It’s all right. So it actually only seems to lie on the said relay…ABER, now it doesn’t start anymore! Tank is full, and a readout with a borrowed diagnostic device, did not produce any results or error messages. It is normal when trying to start, that’s all unfortunately not happening…! Can I have activated any immobilizer when checking the fuses? Does anyone have any idea how to get the boy running again? Desperate greetings from the Siebengebirge Daniel

Moinsen, before yesterday, the oil temperature display in my computer on board of my G (G63AMG Bj 2014) had failed. Despite RESET and several breaks on the long return journey from Zurich to Hamburg, the display was not active. Oil level OK. Water temperature OK, so I drove carefully on to HH. With each tank along the track, I also noticed that a metallic “click” was heard at the exhaust area during every ignition process. As if you were using a Diabolo air gun shot a uf a corrugated sheet roof hits. In addition, there is the “rattle”, which is typical for a diesel. Yesterday in the NL HH called; result after a question with the plant: – come by and leave the cube there for about 2 days – cylinders are checked if necessary are carried out there – chain tensioner is renewed – ventilation grille on the bonnet (heating grill) has arched (2nd time); is exchanged – analysis on board computer re error message Of course everything on Kulan z, and always as in the NL HH top friendly and accurate. I pray now, I get an AMG GT as a replacement vehicle. I inform you about the small problem with the oil temperature indicator so that you have this info and know what to do. For all G63AMG drivers: pay attention to a “click” during the ignition process; very distinctive and loud noise (have also recorded it with a microphone) + see if the engine in your idling and starting also such a diesel typical crack or ra free ride and wish you all a sunny, hot and super-beautiful week! LG, Mark

With my G 270cdi the headrest only drives up but not down as soon as I press through the switches in the door panel. But if I press old memory settings the motor still drives down the column. But not if I want to manually adjust by switch. The motor is therefore fine. I then got a new switch unit for the door and built in, no change. What I noticed was that a relay at the switch clicks when I manually up the column The click does not stop when I drive down the support. So I switched the control units of the seats with each other (it’s funny, then you press the driver’s seat with the passenger switch unit and vice versa). Then both of the coops went up and down to adjust. ECUs returned to the right sides and both supports still went to adjust. Some kind of contact error is probably to blame. By the way, it is always a relay click to hear, with each the adjustment. Everything is installed again also the door panel, and what was exactly, the headrest of the passenger side drives again only up and not down. Then both control units exchanged again, this time also driver seat (with the control unit of the passenger seat and with switch actuation in the passenger door) the support only up and not down. What can that be? I think either the control unit really has a crack (possibly the relay) or a cable from the Scha It’s possible with this CAN bus thing, because no fixed assignment) has some kind of wobbler. While all the cables don’t look like it, they don’t wake up and shake. Can you check the control unit, I just hate to get another one if it’s not at all. Alternatively, I can leave it as it is, but somehow it doesn’t leave me alone. Who has an idea?