Category: Mercedes Motoren Forum

Good day, I drive a S320 CDI built in 2008 at 247000km engine OM642… And I have the following problem…and that’s standing while gasting and also during the ride usually so between 1500-2000 revolutions the car makes such a funny noise. I was so far in 9 different workshops and unfortunately nobody could help me any more. The turbo was suspected but this has neither game on the shaft nor is the one from the inside. I also did not have any power loss or black smoke The vehicle has often gone into emergency running yesterday replaced the AGR valve and now the vehicle is running much better but this noise or grinding or the air turbulence that arises there is still there and slowly gets on my nerves and so far no workshop could tell me what that is. When you stand in front of the engine you hear that comes from the right side of the engine. The MKL is not on and when reading out it shows no errors at all. n. And while driving the vehicle is jerking. I am currently at a loss. Did not find anything in the net that resembles the problem.. am currently at a loss I ask for help ???????????

Description Heat problem I know there is a lot on this subject, but I don’t get any further… I drive a 612 d, built in 1997, with the five-cylinder OM 602 diesel engine with a cylinder capacity of 2.9 l . When you start the engine and start the engine, the temperature pointer blows out temporarily up to 130 and goes back to the normal range. This then until it is at about 90 degrees. If it is at 90 degrees the pointer swings up to 130 degrees and remains predominantly in the red range. If you drive faster than 60 h/km it goes back into the red area and only if you give full gas, the temperature rises at 90 degrees, you take gas away, the pointer goes back into the red area. So I can drive with 110 full gas and it does not overheat. In the traffic jam – even in summer – the temperature remains at a constant 90 degrees. The small circuit is hot, the heat is heated, the heat is heated. large circuit – the upper thick hose gets hot, the lower hose on the cooler gets very late lukewarm. The cooler doesn’t get really warm. The thermostat was changed on holiday from a workshop (the old one checked and it was fine) and the cooling water completely renewed. An additional temperature sensor was installed on the engine block at the upper rear engine block. This adjusts at approx. 100 degrees. Is it an electrical problem, or the water pump or the viscolü fter? Thank you for your help in advance. LG Klaus

Hello dear forum, I have been driving a GL450 for about 4 months, year 2007 with M273 V8 petrol engine 190tk. With this control chain, camshaft adjuster, oil pump, sliding rails and various small parts which belong to it with original parts have been renewed. Checking the camshafts+storage was inconspicuous. The previous owner had changed the control chain already, a cheap set for 500 something €. There were camshaft adjusters, as well as the turning gear pretty tight. e already jam-like consistency, the whole engine had deposits. Since the engine was running quite impeccable during the purchase and afterwards and the rest was also in good condition I had hoped to have made a good purchase at that time. Because of this bad condition I thought I would do something good for the engine with original spare parts. My workshop cleaned the scmodder, rinsed the oil wells, even 2x. On the test drive the car ran like a sack of nuts. The engine spits out massive oil from 2500 rpm on the test drive. Hot on 2km 1-2L oil. Towing, Kat clean up with Mercedes contact, because this did not happen to the workshop. Afterwards a centrifuge was renewed, as well as the oil separator, which did not bring any improvement, still came massive oil out of the exhaust. Without KGE, i.e. hose pulled off the car ran great, as it should be and there was no oil. But this is the way one is allowed today The problems did not exist before. There was an M8 threaded pen in the middle of it and clogged it up. Why is the oil coming through there so strongly from 2500U? If I see the small holes on the oil separator, then they are not there to eliminate a flood, but only drops. If the piston rings were over, would there have to be oil there even if the KGE had been pulled off, or would the car have to be there before the repair Where does the oil drip out of the separator? Does anyone know such a problem or has their theory about it?

Hello, your Benz driver. I’m thinking about getting a C 220 CDI. However, after reading about engine problems here, I’m a bit unsure. My budget only allows a used car, and the diesel models have usually quite good running performance behind them. What experiences have you had? How long do your engines last? How vulnerable is the other mechanics? What does an AT engine (including installation) cost in the worst case? I’m grateful for every information. Martin

Hi, the following problem on my W164 ML 320 CDI OM642 224ps approx. 290tkm Bj2005: The car jerks when speeding up and goes into the emergency run. In addition, the turbo always gives a flutter of itself when you release the accelerator pedal. The problem exists since last winter, where it did not want to start and had to be helped. At that time the problem was in the exhaust pressure sensor and after exchange the car drove again for 30km without problems but then again the same, emergency run. This time the error became 251 1 AGR monitoring set, so I renewed the AGR valve, but the problem persists. Then I removed the turbo, the intake manifold and the EKAS actuator. The rod of the throttles had a lot of play, so I renewed this and checked the EKAS for smooth operation and installed everything again without success, still the same problem. At the moment the error is 2510 charging pressure regulator – malfunction or defective stored, but if I set the charging pressure plate This is because during the test you can see the controller working at the charging pressure selector and at 10% it stays up (i.e. too) and at 90%(i.e., you can clearly stop the turbo as it pulls the air. The funny thing is that the charging pressure selector always stays open at 90% at the bottom of the idle. Can someone tell me how his controller behaves? So the position in idle mode and at 1500 rotations would help me even further. someone with the same problem or tips, what should I consider next?

Hello, in a few days I will pick up my new SL 63 AMG with the 6.2 liter M156 engine. Now I have read in the net of weak points of the engine (jack shaft adjusters, breaking screws etc.). Since I want to drive the vehicle for a long time, it is very important to me that the aggregates also work clean and unproblematic. My vehicle is a 2008er and has 120,000 km down. The vehicle was driven by an older Dr. and was every year, every 10,000km at Mercedes for maintenance, a really well-kept vehicle. Now to my question: is it possible to check the vehicle or the engine for these flaws purely preventively and to exchange worn parts if necessary? If so, is there a well-known workshop or specialist for this? The ABC chassis problem is known to me, will have a flushing done. Thank you all in advance and look forward to your comments. Greetings Can

It is the 601 engine 1994 in the T1 box with 210,000 KM the clacked. Before about 50,000Km the chain was changed due to length in MB transporter workshop. About 20,000 km later I heard for the first time a quiet clacking which however always when then Moror was warm disappeared. In addition it did not occur regularly and sounded like coming from the injection pump. Also it sounded like the sound of the injection pume if one would strengthen it. Naturally also in the flick of the injection. 15,000 KM later was there But absolutely irregular, sometimes louder, quieter, not at all. There was no regularity to be found. Sometimes 500KM no clacking and then suddenly again and disappeared again. It also came short and disappeared again, but there was more than 50% of the operating time to be heard. Then finally the clacking was present at the MB transporter workshop and the noise specialist, who also recognized the chain length at the sound (wa r then confirmed, since the vehicle was called back because of bad chain but never changed) said after some engine tests, that the camshaft on the hydro beats because it has a defective valve. Repair is not mandatory but costs approx.250€ !!! To this day the clacking is more often 80% operating time, even at top speed and sometimes even louder. L.Moly Hydropulse oil brings noise reduction but not for a long time, the engine probably burns this oil r Now I drive with 2TÖL and the engine is quieter and the clacking for the ear all the louder and I want to have the clacking away. I already read that it can also be the head seal. How can I invest what is now defective? Can one perhaps see the leak oil in the chain casing? Or something else? Would I be very angry if I changed the hydros and it clacks further.

Hello, the 350 CGI tends to russian something. So I wanted to know if someone has experience with gasoline additives from Liquid Moli. A little unclear is also what kind of product I should take. My S211 350 CGI has about 120tkm of Liquid Moli there are following products Valve Clean 1014 Injection Cleaner 5110 Petrol System Care 5108 The question is also whether the listed products actually whiten up differences or purely for marketing reasons gives greeting Marc

Hello together, I bought a 320 ́ger V6 petrol engine at ebay. In the advertisement the seller did not mention that the engine is from a right-hand handlebar car. Since we are very advanced with the work, I do not want to send back the engine. The RHD engine has the starter on the left side. On the housing is also a place on the right side, just there you have to drill. Can you drill or mill at the place? How can you get the open place on the left side again to The workshop master has never had to carry out such a conversion, so he asked me to ask here in the forum. Thank you… Thank you in advance for the feedback.

Hello ! Have a huge problem with my injectors on my 220 CDI: 3 injectors are coked. On request in the MB branch they told me that probably the cylinder head has to go with it, because it will probably be destroyed during the construction. Now I wanted to have the repair tautly carried out, then I got from the MB branch in Mannheim the next Jobs message, that with the cylinder head change also the crank case will go with it and also has to get out !!! That means: completely new exchange engine for 5000 Euro !!! My Vito already has a replacement motor with just 70,000 km. And on Kulanz also can not be true !?? Did you have similar experiences, and has someone a good tip for me ?! Best regards, Corsicabiker