Category: Mercedes Motoren Forum

I am currently driving the E200 CGI (A207) with 184hp petrol. My distance to work is 11 km. With stupid mountain in between, so that a bike is not an alternative (no bike path is added). Which engine is the best way to get rid of it? My current one is definitely not. Gasoline collects in the oil and only for fun the track increases to 50km is no alternative. Which engine (except electric) is the short and cold rides well gone?

Hi experts! Here it has already been discussed that engine protection from Liquimoly should be particularly recommended as an addition to the engine oil, furthermore the addition of 1/4 liter 2-stroke oil to the diesel should also have great lubrication properties for the high-pressure pump and the injectors. My question: Is there an “accustomation effect” for the engine, the pump or the injectors? So if I stop with the “treatment”, the disadvantages result? I also called at Mercedes workshops n, there you have denied the addition of motor protection and 2-stroke oil as necessary, yes you didn’t even know these methods of motor protection. Would be great if someone could find himself who could answer the questions without a “I would, I guess, I believe etc.” PS: Since Sterndocktor is a highly competent member here, I would have liked to know what he is doing professionally, even if he thinks we wouldn’t believe it. lg Heimo

hello is it possible to fight the well-known valve coke in the M271 engine in advance? I thought about the use of full-syntetics oil or valve cleaner from the company Liquy Moly you mean that brings what or is only money thrown out? I got a can from the Liquy Moly yesterday and also 10 liters 0w40 Mobil One would you fill the valve cleaner before or after the oil change in the tank? I have already 102000km on my car but nevertheless the Problem real to create and prepares me sleepless nights *g* do you think after 100000km it will rather not enter? I drive by car certainly not zimperlich, but mostly country road but since also often so on average 130kmh on the highway I come very rarely for the purpose of free blowjob! in most cases I move my car on the route to work that are: easy 20km country road for tips and experiences very grateful Gruss and good driving

Hello people, have already found the following post on the topic:http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…on-240d-3-0-possible-t500543.html?… Since the post is already from 2004, here’s the question, is there anything new about an optimization? I have a 220 OM615 with approx. 220tkm, which I would like to integrate into a former 250, W114. Since this is not a project, which should last only one summer, I want to optimize the engine with regard to consumption and performance. A 5-speed transmission is already available. and the 250er has i=3,69, so that you can drive at 3,000 rpm approx. real 115km/h. What can you do exactly on the head? Drilling in front of chambers, which pre-chambers, the existing or new ones? Camshaft, if necessary exact designation? Should you also take other valve seats (hard) and possibly valves? Which nozzles, if necessary with other holders? Does an injection pump from the 240er actually bring more, or is it enough to reseal the old 220er? What else is there? Thanks also to detaus, who gave me first hints! P.S.: The car should keep H-marks, so a turbo is not possible, only things that you don’t see!

Hello, a lot of text, therefore a division into short and long version as well as Xentry/DAS DiagnosisSymptoms (short version) engine shakes and shakes easily for a week when the car stands at the traffic light. Engine went off once. Errors not reproducible at any time but actually occurs every ride. Sometimes the engine jerks at traffic light 1, at traffic light 2 and 3 but not again from traffic light 4. No power loss and no problems during the ride. Yesterday however, the engine jerked strongly No MKL, only yesterday before the engine truck on the highway. Troubleshooting with Xentry/DAS is difficult. Symptoms (long version) At the beginning of last week the problems started. After I had filled my W221 S500 (M278) I stood at a traffic light. The engine started to shake slightly and went out. After that the engine let itself start without problems and there was no MKL. The next day I had moved the car again and noticed, that the engine shakes again easily when I am standing at a traffic light or in traffic jam. I have been driving good 150km since then without the engine running out, but the shaking of the engine still occurs irrevocably. I can’t reproduce the error myself. After the cold start the engine has always run rough for the first 1 minute. Sometimes I can stand at a traffic light with the brake kicked or due to traffic jams and the engine runs softly. At the next traffic light the motor ruc I don’t notice any loss of power or a jerking during the ride. Yesterday morning the MKL started when I was standing at a traffic light again and the engine had shaken slightly. I drove on, had parked the car for a few hours and left again. On the highway I had accelerated from about 110km/h to 130km/h (no kickdown) until the engine gave a strong jerk of itself without the engine starting to start slowly again and get up the longer I stand. The engine was revised 2 years ago (drive chain + cylinder) with fuel filter change as well as replacement of various lines and hoses. Quotation: P008792 – The fuel pressure in the system is too low. The function or the instruction is faulty. – SPEAKED Quotation: P023628 – The charging pressure sensor has malfunction. The signal offset is outside of the system. – SPEAKED Quotation: P023628 – The charging pressure sensor has malfunction. – SPEAKED

On my OM642.886 the starter A 005 151 29 01 with 1.7 Kw is installed. On the OM 642.887 with start/stop, the starter A642 906 10 00 with 1.8 Kw is installed. Since the start also with heat and full battery became more and more strange, I removed the starter times and looked for the coals. They were almost kpl. down. The unit repairer here around the corner had them built in and there. Before that he made a power measurement of the starter and there were only 1,1 Kw. He also said that the starter with 1.7 Kw is too weak for this engine. Because relatively many have been repaired in recent years. As a counter-example he called OM612 with 2.7 l, here were 2.3 Kw starters installed. Has one of you ever changed its starter for a stronger one (z, for example, 2.0 Kw or more)? Are there any stronger starter for OM642, e.g. for taxi or sprinter? There is also the 9V anchor variant but there is nothing suitable for the O M642.

6 years before Christmas, the Turbo and the Krummers gave us an involuntary pit stop. Today it was time for me to be dragged back again. It had been suggested that there was something there, because there was an error message to the camshaft sensor and LMM. The renewal of the camshaft sensor was not crowned by success, just like the change of the LMM against which I still had. Today on the BAB at Vmax suddenly MKL, engine off. I suspect a mass problem, or MSG is death after 14 years. In any case, backups are all i.o.

Hello! I bought a 300TD engine from E-class (OM606.962) without the electronics and built into my G-car. In one week there will be an important off-road event… Now it’s about commissioning, i.e. electrically controlled injection pump and the turbo control (other regulated details don’t exist anymore I know that people install mechanical pump, but as automation technician I would put the regulations into operation with its own programmable logic. I will be happy to tell you about the result. At the moment I urgently need technical data from the engine, e.g. charging pressure course. Can someone help me?

Hello together, I had reported here that my 190 diesel had said goodbye to the oldtimer meeting on the return trip. It just went off on the country road. After a short break a restart was possible. Again driving attempt fails after 2 km…… So the whole went until I was at home …..about 5 km. The tank sieve filter was closed. Black plague. No pollution in the prefilter…… nothing in the main filter. The engine probably still got minimal diesel. Could on this road however a The engine starts perfectly. Not too warm. Not too hot. Not too hot. Oil pressure perfect….. BUT: The engine runs very rough. Shakes. With a little more speed, the shakes after but the feeling that the engine is rougher. Engine definitely runs on all 4 cylinders. What can that be? Something scraped back with the rudder… ..? But what? The engine was never too warm. Oil pressure was always there. It was missing the spritt…. I would be grateful for ideas. Greetings Tegro….

Since I always stroll around our car I decided for another oil separator. This time a replica of the MAN, which arrived a bit unclean today. Unclean, because the breakthroughs from the spraying were not cleaned cleanly deburred. The part is a lot bigger, so I now have to go to the other side in driving direction left, because down there is not the room. I made a few pictures that illustrate it a bit. I leave the line system at 16mm as this also harmonizes well with the oil separator of the engine and the valve at full load also reliably closes. I will place the drain with a 16mm hose as a reservoir between the engine and engine cover. So I only have to open a ball valve with an additional closure stopper to release the liquid. Maybe something else comes to mind. We definitely a tight box.