Category: Mercedes Motoren Forum

Greetings! I would like to completely renew the equipment with my S204 C200 CDI 130 HP (BJ 2007). Background is that there was a workshop a year ago, which then forgot to vent the system, but did not tell me this, and then the next day at 4 o’clock in the morning in Italy (holiday drive) at the gas station had to “solve” the problem. I have cleaned up water. Was there in Italy also still in a Mercedes workshop, and there was correct follow-up still I have a bad feeling in my stomach, also the color (=brownish red?) does not quite match what it should be according to forums, even if there are many different ones as far as I know. Also, the remedy is probably old, since the workshop at that time has re-filled the old one. There should be an exhaust screw, under the underrun protection. But how do I get the air out of the system again? Is a vacuum device necessary? Then I would have to buy a compressor extra for it, which I don’t necessarily want. Is the heating on engine enough to warm up leaving lid open method out here, or is vacuum necessary? I’m looking forward to the answers, LG

Hello together. Thoughtfully made by several threads in motor talk because of the sliding rails in the M 119 engine, and that these like to crumble I made my engine yesterday and determined the following. The engine is an M 119 E50 built in a W124 year 1992 , kilometer level 150000. So time to control all the time. After the opening the sliding rails looked like new, no Vrschlasses broken off etc. But because I wanted to install new ones, so the old ones out. Aut. Then it comes:beim entwicklung notice that the old ones were completely hardened, felt like glass and when opening the closures are broken off. Conclusion: a change certainly does not harm, is not too big a thing, and can extend the life of the engine. With an image of the old sliding rails.

Hello, I bought a used ESP hydraulic block (kpl. with pump and control unit) for testing. My part has e.g. the parts numbers A1705450132 (control unit) + A0034317012 (hydraulic pump) … Example picture attached Has one of you ever unscrewed the round black hydraulic pump from the aluminium hydraulic block? If yes, then I would like to know if you can then install the hydraulic pump again without any problems or if one of you has to fli egen” and the unit can no longer be assembled … Why do I ask this question: I would like to dismantle the pump “destruct-free”, check it (e.g. condition of the coals) and then mount it again on the hydraulic block. Thank you in advance for helpful contributions! (Troll please just keep your fingers still, thank you)

Hello together, the days I noticed that my OM642 (Bj 2007, 224hp, 292TKM) in idle at 600 u/min is shaking/vibrating quite strongly. But you don’t notice anything in the car, but you only look at it on or notice it by hand. My question is if the OM642 drivers among you can look at your engines by “lay on hand” how they behave in idle (not the increased cold start speed)? My cover from the engine is already good at vibrating, abe r as soon as you increase the speed approx. 100….200 u/min that is completely vibrating away. Run your motors at 600 u/min nice quiet??? What I have done with DAS is: – Compression tested – OK – Motor round run – OK (0-1 u/min difference between cylinders) – High pressure circuit test – OK – Leak oil test of injectors – OK (everyone is equal, after 10 minutes empty run were almost 5ml in all tubes) – Engine and gear bearings are 1 year old (FEBI) It is as said only the engine d he vibrates, otherwise nothing, I don’t know if I see or feel ghosts here, but you can ask thanks for your work 🙂 Jan

Hello, my friend her x117 is having serious problems, we don’t know any more and Mercedes doesn’t. We don’t know whether it’s the engine or the 7Gang automatic, Fzg is from 2017 and has run 75,000km. We have the following problem. 1. Stuttering/rubbing, no real gas pick-up when accelerating, stays stuck. (feeling of overgreasing) 2. Only at temperatures below 15 degrees. 3. If only once a day, when it was there, everything runs perfectly and does not come back, just like After cooling down a day later. 4. Once there, you can’t provoke it again, no matter what you do. 5. It feels like when you speed up ASR intervenes and holds the throttle valve. 6. It lasts about 2-3 sec. 7. Mercedes has already replaced the throttle valve and the LLK, now we are out of the guarantee. I have read something similar here before, because it was about water in the LLK, that would explain at below 15 degrees, only once a day, after cooling at the fo It’s back for once. Swallow of water approved and the thing is done, then it runs perfect again.. But I can’t really imagine that, then everyone would have to have it, then I thought of the LMM, but then the error would occur reproducibly in a row. The error memory is empty, in the back of my mind I also have the 7 gear automatic, could also be that when accelerating it doesn’t switch down properly and it comes to stuttering/flattering because it doesn’t we really don’t know what to do, live with it and hope it doesn’t get any worse, repel a car and hope another 220/250 isn’t affected or exchange parts senselessly. It’s also dangerous, you want to speed it up and you can’t do it for 2-3 sec, when you overtake or start at a junction that can be dangerous if you don’t get away. I hope you can help. Mfg

Hello and good evening, I unfortunately had a motor damage after only 95,000 km with my GLC last month. Would like to know if there are similar cases and how you have dealt with them. My vehicle: Mercedes GLC 220D 4M, built 01/2017, approx. 95,000 km mileage, all inspections carried out regularly at the local Mercedes branch. Everything happened on a very normal motorway ride. I had already 400 km in a quiet drive (about 150 km) behind me and still 100 km before me. Suddenly. after a road sink, I want to step back on the gas and nothing happens. No acceleration, max. 25 km/h, and at the stronger pressure on the accelerator pedal it starts to jerk easily at the rear. Over the side strip I reach the next stop after 3 km. After transporting back by ADAC to my Mercedes-contract workshop the following diagnosis is made: A defective Bosch injector on the 4th piston produced a hole/crack in the 4th piston. ur costs approx. 16.000 EUR plus VAT. therefore approx. 20.100 EUR. Cularity on the part of Mercedes is rejected, as state of the art (“…. injectors do not actually break…..). Has anyone experienced similar things? Is Mercedes really so “unculant”? Actually, I had assumed that Mercedes engines are therefore more expensive, as they keep more anxious. 95.000km also keeps any other, cheaper engine loose. VG AE

Hello Motor-Talkies, Mercedes SLK320 (R170) with 5-speed automatic rolls back on the mountain (e.g. deep-grain-accurate drive) to driving stage D. This is not normal and may not be. -> something is broken but what? Greetings and thanks for your answers Tarsis C

Hi, everybody, I’m on vacation and I’ve traveled 440 km in one direction with my W166 350 Bluetec. 70 km from home the engine control light went on, but the car was driving perfectly without any changes in drive or acceleration. The only problem was that at highway speeds of 90-100 km/h there was sometimes a hesitation or a jerk. When driving at 130 km/h the problem does not seem to be repeated. My first thought was a force majesty. fproblem, because the fuel quality is a bit suspicious where I live. That’s why I filled up the tank in the EU country where I travelled, and since refueling the problem did not occur even when driving at 90-100 km/h. Before leaving there were no fault codes in the storage because I scanned with Xentry. What can cause such a problem, as described above, if you drive at high speed on the highway? Since the problem after refueling is not meh r occurred, do you recommend to scan the car where I am or to leave it at home? Do you think I have to worry on the way back because the control engine is switched on and I have covered 370 km? Thanks in advance. P.s When I filled the tank before the trip, I added Liqui Moly diesel cleaner for preventive maintenance, as I have already done with the models W211 and W164, which I had previously.

Search for a Mercedes E 500 Convertible Bj 2015/16 Like a V8 edition. Price from approx. 50,000 €. Offer possible BMW X4 M40i Bj 2019 37T km nearly full equipment NP approx. 97,000 €. I am also grateful for information on the search… Best regards Uwe

Hello I own a W209 200k Bj03 with the M271 engine have on my car now already almost 110000km on the clock of course comes always the thought, that this is not a low power and how long it will take the engine.. must say, am not a slipper! drive also once on the highway 230 (if possible). The car is always 10-15km warmed by me until I turn over 3000u/min. and I let the engine run every time at the car at least 15 seconds (wayway en Compressor) Short distance is as good as it can be avoided! so my car is always TOP maintained and regular oil change every 25000km! drive a little 20000-25000km annually (but mostly more 25000km) what do you think the durability of an M271 compressor engine is like? does someone have the same engine, without problems and with high mileage? would be happy about your answers… until then, good drive and still a nice Sunday