Category: Mercedes Motoren Forum

Moin MT I would get really interested in the running times of the diesel engines back then ( 90s, 2000 around ). from the 300s, to the first CDIs. And how do you estimate the running times of the engines so from 2006-today? ( With the greatest – possible care ! ) I personally have an M111 ( yes benziner, I know. the runs like on the first day ) And an OM613 ! It also runs perfectly and like on the first day ! with now 190,000 still full speed !!!! I am happy to answer Ale n another nice week with kind regards Alfred

Hello dear community, I would like to look at the days a 300 E, year 92 with say and write 380tkm. I informed myself in advance and came up with some problems that can get you on the vehicle. Among other things, the problem of the axle, rust anyway and just that of the engine. I heard that the R6 cylinder gets cracks and thus cooling water gets into the combustion chambers – that is basically no secret and happens to all possible engines. Only I got the additional information of course, maintenance and maintenance also play a role. But can someone tell me his experiences and perhaps also give me some important tips and tricks on the way on the occasion? I am also aware that there is no new car to expect and repairs are not missing. Only I would like to avoid getting on a barrel without the floor in advance. Lieb Greetings and good night.

My engine has now run 412 000 km (I am a first buyer) Once the ZKD had to be renewed, because the head had to be removed due to two broken glow plugs. The valve shaft seals were also immediately renewed and the valves were regrinded (291 000 km). Now I want to have the chain checked for length and if necessary let chain tensioners and sliding rails change with you. A lengthing should already be present at the running performance. Does anyone have special experience with this engine? My screwdriver wants to install an Iwis chain and says that it was original equipment for this engine.

Hello I just signed up and would need a piece of advice I have a problem with my old w638 110cdi box 611.980 at 280tkm when I hammer the engine in the cold start it strongly and sometimes dies off even if you admit gas. With further start attempts it starts normally, runs also to a minimal fluctuating empty run quite well and can be rotated in the cold normal up to 3000 1/min clean. externally, nothing abnormal can be recognized by the injectors. the ag r is clean working and is 15tkm old. the chain tensioner is new. the glowing candles all work. air filters and oil service are current. the minimal fluctuating empty run I push a little on the 2 month standing time and on the frosty temperatures at the time. only abnormal is that the clock time in the cluster after 2 days standing time stupid sense shows. but what was also before the error. does anyone have an idea for the rough hammering after the 1st motor start? thanks already for your denkansä tt

And suddenly she was there for a few days and disappeared again as she had come. Just on time for Advent not only the fourth light was burning but also the yellow engine control light without otherwise having changed something at the running behavior. Unfortunately, she had no capacity to read out Mercedes Werkstatt. The ÖAMTC did not come in. The technician whispered some of the incompatibility of the engine control unit. In any case I drove around now a good week and yesterday the light went off Who’s got an idea?

Hello Starfriends, I hope you can help me. Have the following problem with my W164 350CDI BJ 2011, when speeding up and turning off, in working warm condition, between 1400-2500 u/min strange and unhealthy noises from the engine compartment (rat, clack). Good to hear between 30-80km/h in the 2nd to 4th gear! With a recording from the engine compartment and a link at youtube with the same symptoms! Was already teny times at MB, but the guys could not help yet!!! thanks for your supporthttps://youtu.be/x4YEiJQBLdQ

For a long time I had an exhaust gas odour when the engine was running in the interior. The whole thing is already described in the following thread from page 7 but so that the thread is not further diluted, I separate it and open a new one.http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…-642-special tool-t5491504.html?… Today I wanted to expand the turbo because 2 turbo repairers of the opinion were the fault source is not the turbo but the exhaust system. from the control shaft (light soot deposits), the cause should be the exhaust system with too high exhaust pressure. The sensor exhaust back pressure delivers normal values with and without cats and DPF. To test and reduce the exhaust back pressure I built and mounted 3 atrappen (2 Kats and 1 DPF). Result of the engine runs as always, only in a warm state at the traffic light it smells in the interior after I had worked from the front to the turbo and in the rear Bereic h had removed the exhaust, I came to disassembly the exhaust pipe from the exhaust to the AGR cooler. I had already looked into this line with the endoscope but didn’t see anything. After the removal of the exhaust pipe, soot was visible on the lower flange outside, but the sealing surfaces were blank. After looking carefully, I discovered the crack. Probably the exhaust gas leaked out there and rose again under the turbo. I hope that was the source of the fault. When ordering parts there is a small problem. The charging air line from the noise damper to the turbo is sealed with 2 sealing rings. The sealing ring on the turbo is ordered but the noise damper does not find the part man and wants to sell me a new noise damper A 642 140 19 87 for approx. 140 €. The O-ring on the noise damper has the approx. dimensions 52,0×4,0. Who of you already has the charge air cable dich can I use his invoice to give me the part number for the O-ring on the silencer?

Hello together, I drive a Viano 3.0 with the OM 642 with 224 hp. The engine has been replaced times and should have a mileage of almost 100 000 km. The turbocharger was also replaced during engine replacement. Whether a new or outdated was installed, I can’t tell. When buying the charge air hose, which leads into the charge air cooler, leaked and there have always been oil drops formed. I changed the hose, but the oil can only be replaced by the turbocharger do Since the car has no noticeable oil consumption, I was less worried about it, especially since I know about the oily charging air hoses also from my W203 C270. What worries me more is a quiet whistle under load from almost 2000 revolutions and grey/black clouds while accelerating. The charging pressure, measured with Delphi, was yesterday at max. 2.44 bar and I don’t feel that power is missing. Should I worry about the turbocharger? Thank you!

Hello, someone can tell me the target value of the exhaust backpressure in idle mode, or also when accelerating. I have 1600 hPa at idle, or 4000 hPa at accelerate.For engine from 1040hPa,so sensor in order. That seems to me too much. Particle filter is regenerated, so according to the tester free.

I was an old school engine oil changer so far, because I was sure that only the old oil can be completely out of the engine. Through some contributions here I became curious and got me a mechanical pump with 9 liters volume. As a result I got a little fuzzy, so actually the whole oil can suck off from the engine. My neighbor of the car locker of the old guard is, said that you should drain all 2 suctions once. What do you think of this procedure? Or something?