Category: Mercedes Motoren Forum

Hello, our SLK 200K with the M271 engine (80,000 km) rattles while starting for a few seconds. This is actually so since new purchase, but so far the flap was not scary. It probably comes from the fact that the oil runs out of the hydro-stumps during service life and has to be pressed back in when restarting. Since recently the flap has become very loud with longer service lifes (2-3 days), it now sounds really unhealthy and scary. Can you fix something here before something collapses in the cylinder head? Thanks for tips. ciao olderich

Hi together, I have a M273 with suspicion of a coked suction tube. When starting up and in the lower speeds there is very little power and passage. The lower gears switch partly jerky. A transmission flush has been made. Can the suction tube be coked with the M273 and if so, can it be cleaned? The car is 10 years old and has 70000 km. The previous owner has probably used the most for short trips. I still drive today mostly briefly, once a month also a long Re ise on highway. What do you think? Greetings Achill

Quotation: Original written by Eifelbacher Quotation: Original written by Harry-NRW The machine runs quieter with 2T oil, but the larger part of the quieter run has the fuelled diesel quality. Diesel from discounters and also brand fuel from some chains runs rougher than that of the yellow/red shell tanks. I tested this several times. Since the diesel comes mostly from the same refinery (Vienna – Schwechat) at the gas stations I frequented are only the Additives of the individual fuel companies are decisive. The two injectors on the attached picture have driven the last exchanged No.1 – 42,000 km with 2T oil and No. 2 – 5,000 km with 2T oil. I find here the cleansing effect already visible. LG robert PS: At the same time the 2T oil additives have removed the flaps and the AGR is shut down.

Hello! I drive an 86 W124 300D with 190000 kilometers on the clock.Lastly, I had the hydro-punch changed, as the engine clacked unsightly.Now it runs and purrs again 1A. Unfortunately, last days I found out that the engine at the front left of the corner at the height of the cylinder head gasket pushes out oil.I have no water loss/oil loss and no oil in the water or water in the oil, but I am still worried. Is this now a cosmetic defect (of “Schwitzen” can no longer be mentioned here) or should the head seal be changed???Ever since this leak occurred shortly after changing the hydros.Does anyone know what the gasket change costs for my 6-cylinder approx.?I just found the following text excerpt in the www: The W124 diesels are quite safe, except for a few exceptions. In fact, they consume too much fuel relative to their power output. A leaky cylinder head gasket in the height of the first cylinder could be problematic for these engines. However, as long as the oil loss is limited, there is not necessarily a need for action. Everything is only half as wild??? Stefan

Hello experts, in order to learn more about the health of my engine, I have now done a motor oil analysis twice. Above all, the increased iron content jumps into the eye. Last year it was 93 mg/kg, this year already 288 mg/kg This is probably a sign of wear. Do I have to worry about that? Where is the limit value from which the oil should be changed more often? With me it was always 12-15 months and 15,000 km. And finally: Does the OM605.960 in the oil tank e in magnets that hold the iron particles and thus prevent worse? Or would you recommend a magnetic draining screw and/or an additional magnet in the prefilter? Thank you for every helpful hint! Always enough iron in the blood, but not in the oil, wishes you Stefan

Hello Mercedes Diesel – driver, me or rather my wife something very stupid happened. She accidentally refueled our Mercedes E 220 CDI with 14 liters of petrol instead of diesel. Then she noticed the mistake and filled up with diesel. At the gas station she inquired if she was allowed to drive with it after all the friendly employees had no idea and could not say anything. She then drove a bit and stopped, a Mercedes workshop then she a This is of course a really nice hammer, one of you has an idea if I have a chance to repair the damage here. Maybe comprehensive, insurance of the gas station I have no idea, maybe one of them can give me tips. Thanks Heinz

Hello! I am looking for an optical description of the components on OM 646. I imagine that all components are named on a picture of the engine compartment. I am a diesel-newer and would need some start-up help. In “Now I help myself” I have such a thing of my M104. Or would that be there in the issue of the W211? Does anyone have these books? As you leave it, this book and “So wirds wirds” shouldn’t be particularly helpful … Thank you!

Hello experts, after my partout didn’t want to jump any more, I had to let him drag. He found that the control rod for the injection quantity control is stuck. In German: The good old Bosch series injection pump, which is considered “unkaputtbar”, is over repairing it can’t, just send it to Bosch to repair. I think rather of getting me a cheap used one. I already have an offer for the installation. But not from the My previous According to the green nameplate, the pump has the Mercedes original part number A605 070 1101 ER 0048. The one from Bosch is 0400 195 004. So a little googled and found out that there are two pumps to one and the same Bosch part number: My just mentioned and then another one with the Mercedes OE part number A605 070 1101 80 on a blue nameplate. I could get one of these cheap ones. But whether it fits too? According to the call on it would have to, but I prefer not to rely on it. With the exception of the type plate, both look the same. Can it be that the latter comes from the W210 E250 turbodiesel, which was built only for export? Could it fit anyway. Does anyone know more? Thank you very much! And always good injection wishes you Stefan

Hello dear people, here is a “special question about engines”: I have an E 320 T CDI Bj. 5/2000 (the one with the row six with 197 hp) which now has 125,000 km on the clock. In itself a reasonably good car. I bought it 4 years ago with 37,000 km. For a long time I have already heard a light “hadschen” during the engine run with approx. 1.200-1.800 rpm on a gentle drive, so whether a cylinder less compression, slightly unequal injection amount, emptied hydraulic shock cups or otherwise any As I said, it doesn’t sound like engine damage (thanks to God), but it never runs like this. At 37,000 km, I haven’t noticed that yet and over 2,000 rpm, this self-will is “covered” by the higher speed and the generally higher noise level. In summer, it’s a bit quieter with the air conditioning switched on, perhaps because the engine is more under load? From the predecessor, an E 220 T CDI (125 hp), which I have up to 100,000 km I remember that in a similar way. I always remembered a taxi … Now the question: Is this a normal wear and tear or should I have a look at it?

Hello,and Moin ,Moin Hab recently here in the forum, read something about the coking and not badly surprised about the damage that this can do.As we drive a 270cdi Bj2004 pre-mopf, I am now worried.What can be done to counteract the coking? Did our car actually want to drive longer, so I bought combustion improvements,which is normally used for heating. Now my question:Can the current engines tolerate the combustion improver? re answers in advance. Beautiful Greetings Gritlie