Category: Mercedes Motoren Forum

I would have presented an interesting topic for discussion and fact finding: diesel with throttle valve. I know of various systems. for example, at mb the diesel engines were equipped with a DK until the 1970s, because the injection pump was controlled by underpressure. (without dk you don’t have any underpressure). secondly, I noticed the dk with the new cdi motors (646) with DPF (or RPF) that the motors also have a throttle valve again. but here to steue I also heard about ner dk at ford, but I don’t know what the good thing is. I heard a few rumors that they are to turn off the engine. actually also stupid, but no matter what, there will be a reason. and this is exactly what I wanted to find out with your help in this threat. so who has different applications for a DK in the diesel engine should write here. especially I think of diesel screw. or other diesel. exper mfg andreas

Servus, yesterday I stopped at the traffic light. The car (320cdi 2006) turned almost in idle although it was on D. Backward however was no problem. So first the possibility discussed to drive back home and then pushed up to the workshop. After cooling he drove again a few meters, but after a few seconds lost the power and stopped. Diagnosis says P0730 inadmissible transmission translation. After many YouTube and phone calls with gears heinis I then got the Ge I brought the control unit to a speci, which again sends it where it is connected and tested by simulation. A few weeks ago I had the cardan shaft replaced because of the beating noises from the area of the gearbox, where the cross camp had been knocked out. Did someone ever have a similar case? L g from good Otto

Good day dear community… I bruache so slowly really advice from you, I’m almost at the end of my screwdriver knowledge I drive a CLS 219 320cdi with OM642 V6 engine me spit out wurth, that the loading pressure stacker is defective, this was also the case (platinum smeared through). So I replaced it. Mistakes remained however … so I pulled off the EKAS plug on advice of some FB colleagues and the car ran back normal (some less power around below but no more emergency run) S omit was for me actually clear that the EKAS is defective … this I exchanged today everything closed and tried…. and what happens car in emergency run and the error codes are back again….. When I plug off the EKAS runs the car around without emergency run, the same game, when I install a 4.7Kohm resist, then the car runs in emergency run …. I no longer understand so slowly where the problem is…. The flaps are smooth and the sting is not broken! hope someone can help me here, colleagues thought shcon that is 100% of the DPF! but that also did not bring any improvements, I ran a second time with holes in it…. I despair so long with the car or the engine…. Exchange history of the last weeks! Charger changed EKAS exchanged AGR sensor exchanged Differential pressure sensor exchanged AGR valve cleaned Turbocharger was exchanged at 193k Km (currently 224k km)

Has anyone ever dealt with the resistance of the coding plug? I am concerned about what resistance influences what? In my W124 with the OM606Turbo I have retrofitted a cruise control of the diesel, this “overruled” but as expected, he intervenes too strongly and thus constantly commutes, which is somehow also clear because the engine is clearly more agile than everything that was installed in the w124 diesel. now I have a 0075450632 inside

Hi together, I have to fill in oil with the approval 229.5 for petrol engines with my Mercedes M273 (2009) engine. I filled in the approval 229.51 (for DPF) last autumn. The car is actually running well, but does the wrong oil do unnoticed damage? What do you think, can I leave the oil in it until autumn (next maintenance oil change) or should the oil exchange as soon as possible? An autoversed friend prefers to say out yesterday than today, at Mercedes they are relaxed and I’ll make about 3000km until autumn. Thank you.

Servus my screwdriver freaks, Today I had to fix that oil drips to me and guess it looks like oil cooler because it runs down in the front area at the gearbox at the sides. I wanted to ask which oil cooler manufacturer would recommend you. Would you like to take a good manufacturer because the work is difficult. Febi wanted to purchase unfortunately sold out on each side. Offers will Vemo,Nissens,Dasis,Topran,NRF,Tructec…Can you recommend one to me ??

Servus together! on the manual gearbox of my 208d from 1993 with 230T KM stands at the filling screw SAE80 and thus this or better a 75W-80 should be filled. Gear transmission is a 5speed 711,110. This year the transmission (or maybe I too) sometimes worked a little bad so that I switched off about 5 times and the gears with gear collars. On the bill of a MB workshop that changed the gear oil before approx. 80T KM stood “gear oil ATF” and thus f I recently enveloped the LM1200 ATF. About the 200KM driven so far, the gearbox turned clean and soft. But as I learned the ATF is definitely the wrong OIL!!!!! On the magnet of the drain screw it looked like this, see picture. Very fine abrasion with a few pieces 1-2,5 mm large which look like tooth flanks. Can you explain to me what an ATF oil does wrong in my gearbox? Why does an ATF come in in most 711 gears? Thanks in advance.

Good day, I drive a S320 CDI built in 2008 at 247000km engine OM642… And I have the following problem…and that’s standing while gasting and also during the ride usually so between 1500-2000 revolutions the car makes such a funny noise. I was so far in 9 different workshops and unfortunately nobody could help me any more. The turbo was suspected but this has neither game on the shaft nor is the one from the inside. I also did not have any power loss or black smoke The vehicle has often gone into emergency running yesterday replaced the AGR valve and now the vehicle is running much better but this noise or grinding or the air turbulence that arises there is still there and slowly gets on my nerves and so far no workshop could tell me what that is. When you stand in front of the engine you hear that comes from the right side of the engine. The MKL is not on and when reading out it shows no errors at all. n. And while driving the vehicle is jerking. I am currently at a loss. Did not find anything in the net that resembles the problem.. am currently at a loss I ask for help ???????????

Description Heat problem I know there is a lot on this subject, but I don’t get any further… I drive a 612 d, built in 1997, with the five-cylinder OM 602 diesel engine with a cylinder capacity of 2.9 l . When you start the engine and start the engine, the temperature pointer blows out temporarily up to 130 and goes back to the normal range. This then until it is at about 90 degrees. If it is at 90 degrees the pointer swings up to 130 degrees and remains predominantly in the red range. If you drive faster than 60 h/km it goes back into the red area and only if you give full gas, the temperature rises at 90 degrees, you take gas away, the pointer goes back into the red area. So I can drive with 110 full gas and it does not overheat. In the traffic jam – even in summer – the temperature remains at a constant 90 degrees. The small circuit is hot, the heat is heated, the heat is heated. large circuit – the upper thick hose gets hot, the lower hose on the cooler gets very late lukewarm. The cooler doesn’t get really warm. The thermostat was changed on holiday from a workshop (the old one checked and it was fine) and the cooling water completely renewed. An additional temperature sensor was installed on the engine block at the upper rear engine block. This adjusts at approx. 100 degrees. Is it an electrical problem, or the water pump or the viscolü fter? Thank you for your help in advance. LG Klaus

Hello dear forum, I have been driving a GL450 for about 4 months, year 2007 with M273 V8 petrol engine 190tk. With this control chain, camshaft adjuster, oil pump, sliding rails and various small parts which belong to it with original parts have been renewed. Checking the camshafts+storage was inconspicuous. The previous owner had changed the control chain already, a cheap set for 500 something €. There were camshaft adjusters, as well as the turning gear pretty tight. e already jam-like consistency, the whole engine had deposits. Since the engine was running quite impeccable during the purchase and afterwards and the rest was also in good condition I had hoped to have made a good purchase at that time. Because of this bad condition I thought I would do something good for the engine with original spare parts. My workshop cleaned the scmodder, rinsed the oil wells, even 2x. On the test drive the car ran like a sack of nuts. The engine spits out massive oil from 2500 rpm on the test drive. Hot on 2km 1-2L oil. Towing, Kat clean up with Mercedes contact, because this did not happen to the workshop. Afterwards a centrifuge was renewed, as well as the oil separator, which did not bring any improvement, still came massive oil out of the exhaust. Without KGE, i.e. hose pulled off the car ran great, as it should be and there was no oil. But this is the way one is allowed today The problems did not exist before. There was an M8 threaded pen in the middle of it and clogged it up. Why is the oil coming through there so strongly from 2500U? If I see the small holes on the oil separator, then they are not there to eliminate a flood, but only drops. If the piston rings were over, would there have to be oil there even if the KGE had been pulled off, or would the car have to be there before the repair Where does the oil drip out of the separator? Does anyone know such a problem or has their theory about it?