Category: Mercedes R-Class Forum

Hello everybody, for all those who have already thought about installing the beautiful LED rear lights from the new, plucked R-Class: I tried it with my friendly one today. It’s NOT possible! Control unit can be recoded to LED rear light, plug assignments/pins have to be changed on both sides, then everything lights up correctly, BUT: the shape of the RL is slightly changed, it doesn’t fit with the previous models. I changed, so that the lights can’t be screwed properly… Well, it’s over, it would look great, but I can’t… maybe I can spare one or the other unnecessary attempts and costs Many greetings, Thomas

Hello, now the compressor is at the end and I would like to change the compressor, compensation tank, valve block and the air springs. I found the 251.122 320CDI 4-Matic. Does anyone have the MB part numbers (or a link) for the individual parts?! I found for the compressor the No. A2513202604 and the valve block the No. A2513200158. are the numbers correct? The prices for the compressor are between 280-769€ … And for the valve block I have not yet got reliable prices anden (approx. 150-160€). Has anyone made the exchange themselves? Do you need special tools? Thank you for every tip!

A sunny hello to the R class community. I’m the newest owner of an R class as a facelift. Boys with 19 000 km. I’ve already had 2 workshop visits behind me for about 1 month now. Although everything on guarantee is a bit surprising. The first time I had the parking brake lever in my hand and the second time ABS, ESP and tyre pressure roller had failed. Precautionarily all 4 sensors were replaced. When picking up the car from Gruma, this was even Sucked out, washed and had got new windscreen wipers. That’s what I call service. Greetings Fiedelheike

Moin, it’s been quiet for a long time. Today he doesn’t want any more … doesn’t turn any more gear… error message s.o. question, since in the worst case I have to reckon that the ism is fucked up, at least I’ve been so angry so far, does this have to be married to the car or is it going to plug and play ? Greeting

I had to change the starter of the R-Class on the weekend because it turned too slowly in the cold state. In the warm everything ok at home, without a stage. Since this is a really great task, I would like to let you share it. So maybe one can avoid the one or other cursing. I think that it was never really intended for Mercedes to change the starter, at least not when engine and gearbox are stuck in the car… If you know what to do and which tool to use I needed about 3 hours. However, it should be possible with the instructions in half of the time. 1. Unscrew the belt under the passenger seat to the right and secure – drive the seat all the way back to the right. 2. Extend engine cover 3. Extend air fluter housing in driving direction right 4. Unscrew clamp from the trouser tube / cat (behind the cylinder head) 5. Screw holder Trouser tube / cat (behind the cylinder head) unscrew SW13 6. To do this, you need a sawn off 16er ring key (approx. 2/3 handle length), thick leather gloves and a lot of power. Maybe there is also a special key from Mercedes. But in house use definitely nothing else fits. It is also not possible to get through the window in the wheelhouse, as the spring leg is directly in front of it. 7. Screw off the two screws from the exhaust holder on the gearbox. Now the cat can be pressed to the side as far as possible. 8. Dissolve screws from the starter. This only works with an overlong 1/2″ tilt extension 500mm (3/8″ probably also) with plug-in nut (and the upper screw additionally with joint) The extension is to be groped past the exhaust pipe/cat and holder. Very important: Please let the screws plug in! 9. Pull out a piece to the rear/top of the starter and then lie down at the engine bearing so that you can move from the top to the 10. Unscrew the two nuts SW10 and SW13 for the cables from the top/front. It is also best to use an over-long 1/4″ extension. 11. Fumble the starter backwards and take it down through the small gap between Kat, Karosse, and motor/gear. The installation then takes place in reverse order. Have fun screwing!

Hello, a happy new year. Or not. Just wanted to get our R500 out of the garage after 8days of service. But don’t start. At the end of a small video. There was also no bridge, had thought battery too weak. But was actually from last year. Had just tried again, of course not. But strangely enough the pointer from the clock still ran several laps although I already had the key out. Funny or sometimes overnight over the battery connections in the engine room Charging ? Battery now has about KI 10,2V.

Hello together, maybe someone knows this phenomenon: When I open the tailgate, I can no longer close it via the switches in the tailgate. I only hear that a relay switches but nothing moves. If I sit in the car and operate the switch at the driver’s door to close the trunk, the tailgate only goes half way and stops and the inner light goes out. I also do not get indicated in the display that the tailgate is open while driving. If I open the door again with the switch at the driver’s door and the inside light goes out immediately, as if the tailgate was not open. What’s this about???? Thank you for your help Greeting Buyer77