Category: Mercedes R-Class Forum

Hello everyone, I think about buying a new (used) car in the spring. I’m currently driving a C 200 TK and a 190 E 1.8 Sportline….. I would like to keep the W201 and want to put myself a nice family car…. Now the question is which one……. Actually it should become an E-Class S 211… (possibly a mopf) but now I have found that the R-Class with petrol engine is already “right” cheap (diesel I don’t have to have 10 tkm. But then I found that the short R (is my “better half” already almost too big) actually offers little space for its dimensions back. We would have to get our son and a big, as well as a small dog for a holiday ride…. (Dachbox I take as well as so with…..) Is the R big enough? Who also has “experience values with the R 350 bzg. Fuel consumption for me ….??? The E seems to be “clearly” bigger in the interior… For the R speaks abe r also the 4-matic (e.g. skiing vacation) Besides, you don’t see the R so often… .. Greetings Markus

So, the order is in the system. R320CDI Kurz. Now it’s about “refine” the equipment. The best of all wives and I naturally have different views, so we need the help of the forum now. Interior equipment: I tend to sports pack with Alcantara black, I just like it; woman wants leather beige or grey. Question: How easy to care for is the Alcantara/Artico combination in everyday life? CHILDREN!! Color outside: The red metallic has really charm. ltag, has someone the color and can still see it? Toys: We ordered the Airmatic. Is it really as good as the seller told us. Entertainment: Ordered is the DVD screen at the back. Advice at DC was hopelessly bad. Does anyone know if you can play the sound about the command? General quality: What awaits and in everyday life? Greetings Elchfan65

I have already searched here but not found a suitable answer to my question, so I ask here. A rhetorical question. What could on average, without credit (bar purchase), with average km of power of 13,000-15000 km an R 350 (I think with such km of power is not yet worth diesel, and in the entertainment it will certainly cost expensive, or?) in the entertainment? e.g. compared to an E class 270 or 320 CDI, or would not be bad the average I think diesel engines are generally more demanding (repair costs, oil, turbo) than gasoline. I am looking forward to the answers and thank you in advance.

Hello dear R community, the change of the air filter is mandatory only every 80.000km, but without any problems to do it yourself. First the engine must be ‘unloaded’, to remove two hex screws SW13 on the right and left, pull off the front rubber seal and remove the rubber buffer from the middle of the windscreen wipers to the water flow. Then the upper cross-carrier can be simply pulled forward over the engine (picture 1). Then I try not without me to bed again the SLK R171 homepage of Mr. Günther Lang. There the change of the air filter with the M272 is described very well.

Since today I am also driver of a V251 as R300 with EZ 04/2011 and only 27.700km on the clock. I have been following the market for it for several months and looked at several and hit today. 4Matic would have been nice, but also clearly more expensive and not absolutely necessary. With 2 years Young Star Guarantee the risk should be manageable with expensive repairs. Moreover, the 2011er should be quite mature. The driving comfort can probably only be topped by the fewest vehicles!! ! He glides there like a juice and that’s exactly what I wanted for long distance, which I usually ride! With snow and ice I can still avoid on the pajero, which we otherwise use as a working animal.

Hello everybody, for all those who have already thought about installing the beautiful LED rear lights from the new, plucked R-Class: I tried it with my friendly one today. It’s NOT possible! Control unit can be recoded to LED rear light, plug assignments/pins have to be changed on both sides, then everything lights up correctly, BUT: the shape of the RL is slightly changed, it doesn’t fit with the previous models. I changed, so that the lights can’t be screwed properly… Well, it’s over, it would look great, but I can’t… maybe I can spare one or the other unnecessary attempts and costs Many greetings, Thomas

Hello, now the compressor is at the end and I would like to change the compressor, compensation tank, valve block and the air springs. I found the 251.122 320CDI 4-Matic. Does anyone have the MB part numbers (or a link) for the individual parts?! I found for the compressor the No. A2513202604 and the valve block the No. A2513200158. are the numbers correct? The prices for the compressor are between 280-769€ … And for the valve block I have not yet got reliable prices anden (approx. 150-160€). Has anyone made the exchange themselves? Do you need special tools? Thank you for every tip!

A sunny hello to the R class community. I’m the newest owner of an R class as a facelift. Boys with 19 000 km. I’ve already had 2 workshop visits behind me for about 1 month now. Although everything on guarantee is a bit surprising. The first time I had the parking brake lever in my hand and the second time ABS, ESP and tyre pressure roller had failed. Precautionarily all 4 sensors were replaced. When picking up the car from Gruma, this was even Sucked out, washed and had got new windscreen wipers. That’s what I call service. Greetings Fiedelheike

Moin, it’s been quiet for a long time. Today he doesn’t want any more … doesn’t turn any more gear… error message s.o. question, since in the worst case I have to reckon that the ism is fucked up, at least I’ve been so angry so far, does this have to be married to the car or is it going to plug and play ? Greeting

I had to change the starter of the R-Class on the weekend because it turned too slowly in the cold state. In the warm everything ok at home, without a stage. Since this is a really great task, I would like to let you share it. So maybe one can avoid the one or other cursing. I think that it was never really intended for Mercedes to change the starter, at least not when engine and gearbox are stuck in the car… If you know what to do and which tool to use I needed about 3 hours. However, it should be possible with the instructions in half of the time. 1. Unscrew the belt under the passenger seat to the right and secure – drive the seat all the way back to the right. 2. Extend engine cover 3. Extend air fluter housing in driving direction right 4. Unscrew clamp from the trouser tube / cat (behind the cylinder head) 5. Screw holder Trouser tube / cat (behind the cylinder head) unscrew SW13 6. To do this, you need a sawn off 16er ring key (approx. 2/3 handle length), thick leather gloves and a lot of power. Maybe there is also a special key from Mercedes. But in house use definitely nothing else fits. It is also not possible to get through the window in the wheelhouse, as the spring leg is directly in front of it. 7. Screw off the two screws from the exhaust holder on the gearbox. Now the cat can be pressed to the side as far as possible. 8. Dissolve screws from the starter. This only works with an overlong 1/2″ tilt extension 500mm (3/8″ probably also) with plug-in nut (and the upper screw additionally with joint) The extension is to be groped past the exhaust pipe/cat and holder. Very important: Please let the screws plug in! 9. Pull out a piece to the rear/top of the starter and then lie down at the engine bearing so that you can move from the top to the 10. Unscrew the two nuts SW10 and SW13 for the cables from the top/front. It is also best to use an over-long 1/4″ extension. 11. Fumble the starter backwards and take it down through the small gap between Kat, Karosse, and motor/gear. The installation then takes place in reverse order. Have fun screwing!