Category: Mercedes S-Class & CL Forum

Hello, a friend has brought me to a video from Youtube, which provides insights into the tuning scene of Japan. First of all, there is a relatively grotesque picture, in which 3 Mercedes are driving forward, a W140, a W220 and a ( I think at least it was a ) R230. For my eye these vehicles are totally faded and disfigured. I would like to know your opinions on this “look” and if I am the only one who will probably completely disassemble these vehicles and again Here’s the link to this video:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJrwxVR8KzA Greeting P.S.: The 7s BMW in my signature was also tinkered when we got it. We also originalized it again. For each of the cars with viiieeel style likes, it’s worth a look at the pictures of my vehicles.

Hello dear S-Class Forum, since I am writing here for the first time, I would like to introduce myself briefly. My name is Oliver and I drive a W126 500SE year of construction 80, silver metallic (yes, one of the absolutely first ), which I inherited from my uncle. The car has 260,000Km down and is generally in a good, well maintained condition (has a little rust at the bottom of the door, but the rear window frame is absolutely clean, the interior equipment (Velour anthracite) is like new). the age of 29 I want to continue driving the vehicle and in the future as a classic car continue to maintain and maintain. Unfortunately the car has some problems: 1) The ABS lamp is permanently on (so also NOT off when you start the engine and is immediately on even after the battery is disconnected). My screwdriver is definitely overwhelmed with this problem “The ABS can’t be read out” The ABS also definitely doesn’t work What can I do? Had already the overload protection relay What can I still do? And another question: 2) Can I retrofit a cruise control for my vehicle? Since it is 80 years old and has K-Jettronic, there is of course no ASR, or electro-hydraulic actuator. Did I see something like this in the bay here: Tempomat retrofit kit Would you recommend this to me? Or where do I get a cruise control? How expensive is the installation and where should I have it done? What can soet be done? 3) The idle speed is always about 1500 revolutions at the cold start. How high is it with you? PS: As soon as I have time again, I will introduce myself and my car correctly ;D MfG Olli

http://dicp.ghb.fh-furtwangen.de/~andreas/parts.php Are no longer up to date. Example: Lifting nozzle for headlight cleaning system: Part number___ Description Price (net) Price (gross) A 220 860 13 47 DÜSE________ €26.01___ €30.17 Actual current price: €44.03 —> incl. tax But not bad to get a first impression. Thus, the shock is significantly lower for part angular parts. Makes a suggestion as this entry in the FAQ – area should be called .

Good morning I love to finance a W220 S320 or S500 for my studies. Become in the summer of 22 and I am already aware that this will not be a sugar slick. I looked at various offers and was amazed that the model already exists for almost 10,000€. To study there will be about 1100-200€ net available to me monthly (supply/rental not yet included) and would now like to know if this is not too close to an ascension command. a deposit of 250€ and a relatively long financing period, the rate would be close to 100€. I would simply be interested in whether it would be possible to finance the car completely with 400-500€ (Sprit + Financing rate + Insurance) per month? Have about 70% with my current insurance, but could possibly also run the whole thing over a fleet insurance. Apart from that. Is there any possibility as a student a financing without existing professional services Is it possible to let the MB dealer run if you can still prove the seller’s continuous “income”? Many thanks for serious suggestions or criticism in advance.

I am a satisfied owner of a W126 300SEL, with a proud 292000 Km on’m Tacho (which seems to be no reality with these vehicles?) So far, the dare has actually not caused me any significant problems (purchased at 186000 Km). Now for a few weeks, I have noticed that the oil consumption has risen from unspecified 1 litre to 1000 Km to a full 2 liters per, well let’s say 200-300 Km. That means once refueling, 2x oil refueling… And with the “oil prices” both are no longer fun ;-)) ) Sometimes I feel that I have to check the petrol level and oil refueling has to grin… I had the car checked, and the workshop type said the car does not lose oil. Everything dry under the hood and also below nothing to see. He claims engine problems (engine is supposed to burn the oil). But it does not smoke and smell. Don’t understand the world :-(((( What’s wrong with my sled? Does not want to sell it (yet) … Although an offer for an S430L is open with “everything on it” (incl. 100hp more grins) … What would you do? Do you have experiences with “oil hunger” at W126??? Thanks and a good slide in 2004!!!

Another problem! If I leave the garage with my S 600 (W 140) in the morning, it doesn’t switch properly. That means I give gas and it doesn’t switch until I take the gas away! That’s what he never did before! Is it very easy that it’s so cold at the moment? or is there a wear part in the gearbox, so it doesn’t work properly anymore? MFG Markus

Hello together, a few days ago my car (BJ2002) VORNE is bagged on both sides. Ground clearance approx. 2 cm. Message: Stop, car too deep! I then tried to drive the car up via the switch. Didn’t work. I then disconnected the battery. Released. Message: Stop, car too low! Very slowly continued. Switch up again. At some point he was up again. Today: car still left above. Drive highway, message: level selection deleted. Then it didn’t last long. rt came the message: stop, car too low! (on the highway!!) I drove slowly until the next descent. When I was on the road I heard the first grinding noises. So stopped, looked. Car this time HINT both sides at the bottom. I then jammed the battery. Again started. Message: stop, car too low! Very slowly continued. Switch up. Somehow he was back up again. I then returned in a raised position about 30 km (only up to speed 80) I think the error always occurs when the vehicle level changes manually or automatically during the ride to the normal level. However, it surprised me that the error occurred once in front and once in the back. Car does not suffocate even with longer service life. I can normally go up and down in the stand. Driving up takes about 20 seconds. Does anyone have any idea what it might be about?

I noticed a phenomenon of which I am interested in whether you (a) can understand it and/or (b) have a proposal for a solution: If the vehicle was standing outside for several hours (e.g. overnight) at minus temperatures, the suspension speaks only very reluctantly. With a slow drive it is noticeable that it hoops completely stiff over smaller bumps. When driving faster on the highway, the steering wheel trembles permanently and the bonnet vibrates as if a wheel was totally unbalanced. After about 30 minutes driving time and/or at higher temperatures it gets much better. After the ABC suspension springs with oil, I assume that this oil (like any other oil) becomes viscous in cold and does not want to spring quite more. Or some complicated valves do not like the cold temperatures. Next Tuesday I have an appointment at the MB workshop – but as the devil probably wants, it is then nice warm and the ga nze Demonstration effect so that I will be sent home again grinning with pity (or searching around for hours and then telling me “nothing found – xxx Euro please”. Therefore, I would like to communicate with further arguments and experiences. I would also like to report on the results of the workshop stay…

Hello my dad wants a S320 w140 next year. He is fascinated by this car. I love bmw myself but the W140 is simply an incredible car. He looks very safe. My dad is enough the driving performance of the S320. only what should we pay attention to at the 320er? bj 1997 best with a maximum of 125,000km. claps or crunches the car? is because damn important. for him and me. as I said also afraid of envy. it would be a pity if the car is scratched. i bi n only 22 but I find this car simply beautiful. best the smallest rims so that the car is nice standard For my dad especially feather comfort counts because of rides on bad roads to Poland etc. and he should not be so broken. except brake and small parts should the car not miss anything or? what had you already had for repairs? thank you already for everything. I myself had a bmw 540i e39 and the race was great. glided beautiful feathers quite well just beautiful. ic h hope the S can do that even better.

hello people, I have some problems with my s-class bj. 2000. I refitted a dvd player a year ago, that you can operate over the comand 2.5. however, the dvd player has broken, it would supposedly not have been a guarantee case and a new one should cost 180 euro. no matter, the sound was before totally fucked up, therefore I decided to retrofit my cd changer, original is better. I shot a cheap today, an MC 3010, fits the overworked??? what kind of cable set bruc I know I need 12v, mass, a wake up signal etc. but I can’t find a cable set like that!!!! but I don’t have a boss sound system. so I would have to take the light conductor signal from the phone. I’ve already seen no cable in the trunk. would it be easier to put the changer in the glove compartment??? that’s in 2min outside… one more. my r adio reception is totally bad..in the city I find maybe 5 channels, even there is the quality bad!!! amplifier def?? there are cheap amplifiers that you switch between the antennas..brings what?? or has the other reason?? thank you already!!!