My 2002 SL55AMG has already a moving past life behind it. Delivered in Spain he appeared about 15 months after delivery in the USA and then ended up in 2009 again in Germany. Here he then got into the hands of a dealer and a little later for about 14 years into the hands of my predecessor / previous owner. He was delivered probably with 330 km/h tacho. But then he got in the USA a pure 200 mph tacho ( or only tacho disc?). Back in Good Old Germany the whole became Some things went wrong with the back & forth. If I choose the display in miles on the on-board computer, then the distances are displayed correctly in miles. However, the tacho needle shows the correct speed value in km/h. I choose the display in km in the on-board computer then the display of the distances is also correctly in kilometers. However, the tacho needle shows fantasy values, which according to my estimation ng is about 1.6 times the actual speed in km/h. So at actual 100 km/h the speedometer needle shows about 160 km/h. Does any of you have any idea what’s wrong or maybe even an idea how to fix this malady? I am grateful for every finger point.
Category: Mercedes SL Forum
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Intake air temperature sensor at R129 500SL with KE-Jetronic
Hello dear Motor-Talk municipality, I have an apparently somewhat bigger problem with my R129 / 500SL of the first series with KE-Jetronic (M 119.960) ………… 326 Ps In the error reading came the error: “Intake air temperature sensor” I have already spent a lot of time finding this intake air temperature sensor on this engine, unfortunately so far without success !? WHO here in the forum knows WO this sensor is exactly on this engine, or in the engine compartment ? Normal This sensor would have to be located directly in the airflow of the intake area, but it is not there !?? Who can help me here? I am grateful for every tip……. GLG R129-FAN
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SRS error / undervoltage terminal 15R at voltage on terminal 15
Problem (SRS error / rollbar LED / relay clacking / …..) exists for a long time. Voltage on terminal 15R only approx. 5V (see previous posts) by pressing the cigarette lighter collapses it and then rises to 12V. –> then everything is OK Either a 12V output is too high or a consumer too low. I have the EZS suspected. Can you measure how much power this has to deliver there? If I pull off the fuse SRS the 12V are always there. How much electricity can the module pull ??? Can really nobody tell me how to get the 12V to terminal 15R My SL is currently in the friendly (TÜV is due) and it doesn’t look good. He wants to exchange SAM passenger, which I think is absurd. With confidence in the concentrated expertise I hope for enlightenment greeting blueglider
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SL500 R230 2002 awakened after 2 years of sleep
Hello, good day and all still a healthy and good new year, My name is Jürgen, I am back here after many years, and had some difficulties to come in, because I somehow had missed that my old account is deleted so now re-created. My questions: I have a silver-coloured SL 500 R230 from 2002 and it was now 2 years under a tarpaulin in my hall, of course everything is empty which can be empty. My alarm siren was already before the S Filling defective (only makes blub blub blub or so similar when I use the key) and now I think about an exchange after or the replacement of the battery installed in it. What I wanted to get rid of is my horror about the new prices of the alarm siren, namely now 1,800,- Euro new, at the RKG in Siegburg and also 360,- Euro for the flat support battery with 35 AH 540A battery front. Are they spinning or have I missed something?! Are there cheaper variants, because I find e the small battery always only with 520A? Greetings and I am happy about your one or other tip
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r129 SL Deck no longer wants a stupid mistake
Hello dear forum! 1) I wanted to clean the shafts / hinges of the soft top a few months ago. I then closed the soft top and put the hard top back in. 2) Now I wanted to remove the hard top and had to find out that it can’t be lifted at the push of a button. I then manually removed it and found that I had forgotten the cleaning cloth (old shirt) between the shafts of the softtop and had jammed it. rt now get removed, but the cover doesn’t go up anymore! 3) what I have read and done in forums: all fuses replaced; battery repeatedly jammed; window re-learned; oil leak excluded; oil level ok; few times the cover opened and closed. At the moment the soft-top is manually on it. When pressing the switch it clicks in the back and that’s . It moves nothing. Does all this speak for the ECU ? Or what do you mean ? I am thanks for every help bar! Best regards and beautiful Pentecost
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Hydraulic oil drips inside of A-pillar – who can give tip?
Hello, when I decided to use our SL because of the front apron, I noticed a strong oil leak on the right A-pillar when closing the roof. It dripped out of the panel on the seat. I read something about it a while ago – but now I can’t find it anymore. Can someone send me a link? Couldn’t you seal it? Is there a rep guide? From MB I got the item number of a cylinder A1298002172 – but according to MB Web-Parts the part belongs in the Verdeckkasten. See part No. 9 on the picture. Is this the right part at all? Thanks for helpful answers.
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R230 – Seats, multi-contour seat functions failed
Hello everybody, it’s about an R230 from 2003. I haven’t had the car that long yet, for this reason I can’t say how long the problem already exists. It’s about the functions on the seats, which are controlled by the switch, at the bottom of the seat. On the driver’s side somehow nothing happens, I hear something, but it doesn’t work, PLUSE lights up for a few seconds and goes out again. The seat heating also doesn’t work (seat and back). it’s similar, it doesn’t really happen anything, only that I hear the functions are being controlled. But the seat heating doesn’t work properly. Does anyone have an idea? Thank you, Thomas
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Pump runs as soon as the “Zündschlüssel” is inserted into the lock. R230
As I wrote elsewhere, I had repaired my rear lock (was leaking). After the reinstallation the tailgate was automatically pulled in and the pump ran only 1-2 seconds after. After that was quiet. But if I put the key in the lock now, and only then, the thing runs again and does not stop, apart from short interruptions,. What else is there supplied with air? Temporary solution: I pull the fuse to save the pump. Has there jema and a tip for me ? Greetings Tilo
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I’m thinking of getting a SL500 EVO (R230) or a R230 (first series) year 08?
1. a SL500 EVO 2.Hd. Built 08/2008 with approx. 64,000 Km. 2. a SL500 (R231) 1 Hd. 06/2008 with approx. 91,000 Km. Pos. 1 costs 34.800.-€ Pos. 2 costs 36.500.-€ Both vehicles are equally well equipped, both have a complete checkbook, both vehicles are accident-free and look impeccable. With both dealers I get for my previous SL500 from 10/01 with 81.500 Km as exchange, for the Inzah My consideration: With the well-known cockpit and interior the EVO with – hopefully – sophisticated technology (ABC system, shock absorbers / suspension legs, catalysts in the exhaust system) etc. to buy or to buy the newer model in the hope that here with my previously driven model (R230) these defects are not to be expected any more. Of course I like the newer cockpit better with the R231, but my attention lies more in the the reliability of all systems including electronics. Which vehicle would you recommend to me?
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Sl r230 radio
Hey people so I bought myself a r230 Bj 2003, I’m also totally satisfied, all extras are in there except for the problem with the radio which pulls down the whole car in my opinion. I have one of these cassettes built in believe audio cc10 or so… even worse no aux connection in the glove compartment and no cd changer. Quite a pity because otherwise the car is a dream, a previous owner 90 thousand down and top maintained… what solutions could I make now and at what cost point? Another small thing would be that the car opens the trunk electrically only from the inside with key nothing moves?