Category: Mercedes SL Forum

As I wrote elsewhere, I had repaired my rear lock (was leaking). After the reinstallation the tailgate was automatically pulled in and the pump ran only 1-2 seconds after. After that was quiet. But if I put the key in the lock now, and only then, the thing runs again and does not stop, apart from short interruptions,. What else is there supplied with air? Temporary solution: I pull the fuse to save the pump. Has there jema and a tip for me ? Greetings Tilo

1. a SL500 EVO 2.Hd. Built 08/2008 with approx. 64,000 Km. 2. a SL500 (R231) 1 Hd. 06/2008 with approx. 91,000 Km. Pos. 1 costs 34.800.-€ Pos. 2 costs 36.500.-€ Both vehicles are equally well equipped, both have a complete checkbook, both vehicles are accident-free and look impeccable. With both dealers I get for my previous SL500 from 10/01 with 81.500 Km as exchange, for the Inzah My consideration: With the well-known cockpit and interior the EVO with – hopefully – sophisticated technology (ABC system, shock absorbers / suspension legs, catalysts in the exhaust system) etc. to buy or to buy the newer model in the hope that here with my previously driven model (R230) these defects are not to be expected any more. Of course I like the newer cockpit better with the R231, but my attention lies more in the the reliability of all systems including electronics. Which vehicle would you recommend to me?

Hey people so I bought myself a r230 Bj 2003, I’m also totally satisfied, all extras are in there except for the problem with the radio which pulls down the whole car in my opinion. I have one of these cassettes built in believe audio cc10 or so… even worse no aux connection in the glove compartment and no cd changer. Quite a pity because otherwise the car is a dream, a previous owner 90 thousand down and top maintained… what solutions could I make now and at what cost point? Another small thing would be that the car opens the trunk electrically only from the inside with key nothing moves?

Hello, I want to /must replace my crackling command. Where do I get one?Do I have to pay attention to best types (R230, 500, Bj 2002). Where do we move in price? Furthermore, I don’t need a corresponding CD for the integ Navi either… (net technical). Can I please give you a tip? Greeting Marc

Evening people, I just tried to configure my SLhttp://www.motor-talk.de/forum/habs-dot-t5579067.html on the US MB page (http://www.mbusa.com) and I noticed that the net prices of the basic models are significantly lower than in D. For example, the SL500 (named SL550 there) is 96,200 € compared to 103,275 € in D. What’s this about? First guess, maybe the US models are worse equipped but exactly the opposite is The basic model has already been used as standard HK sound system, keyless, wind bulkhead and a lot more, things that are expensive extras in D. Then I became curious and have tested still UK (105.520€), Abu Dhabi (111.200€), and also China. I can’t have a mandarin but with Google Translate you can find out that the SL500 seems not to be offered at all, but only two variants of the SL400 (SL 400 Avantgarde + SL 400 Luxury) which are at proud 145.800 and 178.500€ respectively. But back to US prices. What could be the reason why our favourite car is so much cheaper there? Is MB there so extremely under price pressure? Does anyone know if it was already like this at R230/R129/R107 at that time? If so, this would have to be reflected in the used car prices, i.e. a used SL over there would have to be cheaper than a comparable car in D… whereby at these periods of time, of course, the fluctuating €-$ exchange rate comparisons difficult to compare. I don’t know.

Hello everyone, I bought 5 US R129 this year and only one (!) had 2 ignition keys. This is unfortunately common and I know the slutty with keys and other accessories like e.g. the checkbook lost unfortunately enough from my ex.classical motorcycle Biz. On FB someone wanted to pull off the forum colleagues and offers replacement keys for 500,- Euro which seem to come from the same source. At MB directly (as of autumn 2022!) the keys of the early MOPF0 and MOP are the keys F1. I paid about 180 euros for it and had 2 months waiting time. For the MOPF2 with 3 buttons operation I have for months orders at MB and it is not available at the moment, possibly they come at some point, but also not. I have now just received 3 buttons radio key for 2 of my 1999 MOPF2 SLs. I paid 250,- Euro per key. If you find this expensive, should consider what he does with an R129 in the garage where the steering wheel and transmissions I sent my last and only original keys to Tacho-Berlin Schönefelder Chaussee 71 12524 Berlinhttp://www.pixelfehler-berlin.de/. I sent one last Thursday via UPS Express to Mariusz from Tacho-Berlin. He was there Friday noon and was again on the same Friday via UPS Expres During the weekend I got it today, Monday noon. Keys in, engine start, few times press some button, engine off, press again somewhere and the remote control funks. I am super satisfied and can highly recommend Mariusz. And no, I get no commission. But I am so happy for the boxes 2 to have again full-fledged and working keys. After my extremely negative experiences with Tacho Domhöfer Borken (small display) n etc.) was this time a really good experience, which I would like to share with you. You look Foddos.

Moin together, in May last year my battery was changed because it was allegedly broken. Costs I had to take over. Now the same thing happened. I come into the garage last week and everything is dead, 0V voltage, no light flashes anymore. Car was brought into the workshop, thoroughly tested (allegedly!) and found no electrical error – all currents are as they should be told to me. As far as so good … new 92Ah battery was installed which I but again myself (plus 330€ work wage)! Warranty request (Bat is only 9 months old) was rejected with the cuckolding justification of Mercedes: You have been driving only 3000km (voiced) since May 2022 and that is not enough to keep the battery working!! Who has ever heard such nonsense?? To my question, what is the minimum driving distance to ensure the health of the battery I got no answer. Rarely heard bigger nonsense. It says that I should pay in the the last 9 months did not drive very much, but the Bat was never deep discharge – it often hung on the CTEK charger. On one Friday everything was still fine, on Monday morning then not a spark of tension anymore. I have the CTEK Battery Sense (since the last battery change) but unfortunately not tracked the charging condition in the last weeks. I am completely unclear what is going on, the workshop by the way! Gruss Uwe

Moin, since I have never liked the MOPF2 steering wheel with the drop airbag before, I have inserted the classic Benz steering wheel from a 98’s 600’s. Fits pure and looks m.M. better around worlds. Only disadvantage: it seems to be a little thinner from the wreath. In order to overcome the brutally high breaking moment of the steering wheel screw, I solved it with a prof. impact screw (under 1,000 nM power no use). With the impact wrench it’s wonderful to be alone. For new assembly a new steering wheel screw from MB for crazy 0.57 € net and the new steering wheel is screwed with 86 nM. The new screws are already equipped with a kind of Loctite. MB parts No. A000 990 62 39. Separate battery in front of it for at least 10 minutes and start the engine after reconnection, steering wheel completely to the left, then again to the right, center, ignition off. of course also the window lifters once completely down and drive up again. Done. Due to the grinding ring of the MOPF1 and MOPF with 2 noses the old steering wheel of the 1th generation does NOT fit because this rear has only one recess.

Good day to the group. I hope someone has a good idea. My SL now has two batteries that are managed via a relay as well as a control unit (R 230 drivers know this yes). Both batteries are NEW ! With running engine and all consumers I measure between 14.2 and 14.4 volts charging current on the batteries ! I have charged both batteries with a CTEK charger to the green point ! After approx. 60 KM drive both batteries have only half power and the starter turn t like with an almost empty battery, although I have measured the charging current. How does that work ? Does someone have a solution or idea It’s about a SL 55 AMG Thank you in advance and soon nice open weather. Lg.

Hello dear community, since you can hardly find any information on the web for the SL R230 and there are no repair manuals to buy, I ask you here once. Where in the SL 500 R230 is the Variodach control unit installed? The problem with the tools: The Variodach often stops at half when opening or closing. ADAC and MB specialist workshop could not analyze or find the error on site. Now I have researched a little. The most common problems of this kind are the following: genden: 1) Switches of the boot boundaries 2) Switches of the boot cover 3) Hydraulic pump 4) Hydraulic hoses 5) Variodach control unit My realization: When I carry out a deep diagnosis via OBD and an app, then it is the case that one can suddenly close the roof again or open it. Therefore, I assume that if the control units are addressed via the diagnosis – especially the control unit for the Variodach in the case – then it awakens, so my guess. I would buy and install a used ECU before I bring the vehicle back to the workshop for expensive money. Thank you for your answers in advance!