Category: Mercedes SL Forum

Hello everyone, I bought 5 US R129 this year and only one (!) had 2 ignition keys. This is unfortunately common and I know the slutty with keys and other accessories like e.g. the checkbook lost unfortunately enough from my ex.classical motorcycle Biz. On FB someone wanted to pull off the forum colleagues and offers replacement keys for 500,- Euro which seem to come from the same source. At MB directly (as of autumn 2022!) the keys of the early MOPF0 and MOP are the keys F1. I paid about 180 euros for it and had 2 months waiting time. For the MOPF2 with 3 buttons operation I have for months orders at MB and it is not available at the moment, possibly they come at some point, but also not. I have now just received 3 buttons radio key for 2 of my 1999 MOPF2 SLs. I paid 250,- Euro per key. If you find this expensive, should consider what he does with an R129 in the garage where the steering wheel and transmissions I sent my last and only original keys to Tacho-Berlin Schönefelder Chaussee 71 12524 Berlinhttp://www.pixelfehler-berlin.de/. I sent one last Thursday via UPS Express to Mariusz from Tacho-Berlin. He was there Friday noon and was again on the same Friday via UPS Expres During the weekend I got it today, Monday noon. Keys in, engine start, few times press some button, engine off, press again somewhere and the remote control funks. I am super satisfied and can highly recommend Mariusz. And no, I get no commission. But I am so happy for the boxes 2 to have again full-fledged and working keys. After my extremely negative experiences with Tacho Domhöfer Borken (small display) n etc.) was this time a really good experience, which I would like to share with you. You look Foddos.

Moin together, in May last year my battery was changed because it was allegedly broken. Costs I had to take over. Now the same thing happened. I come into the garage last week and everything is dead, 0V voltage, no light flashes anymore. Car was brought into the workshop, thoroughly tested (allegedly!) and found no electrical error – all currents are as they should be told to me. As far as so good … new 92Ah battery was installed which I but again myself (plus 330€ work wage)! Warranty request (Bat is only 9 months old) was rejected with the cuckolding justification of Mercedes: You have been driving only 3000km (voiced) since May 2022 and that is not enough to keep the battery working!! Who has ever heard such nonsense?? To my question, what is the minimum driving distance to ensure the health of the battery I got no answer. Rarely heard bigger nonsense. It says that I should pay in the the last 9 months did not drive very much, but the Bat was never deep discharge – it often hung on the CTEK charger. On one Friday everything was still fine, on Monday morning then not a spark of tension anymore. I have the CTEK Battery Sense (since the last battery change) but unfortunately not tracked the charging condition in the last weeks. I am completely unclear what is going on, the workshop by the way! Gruss Uwe

Moin, since I have never liked the MOPF2 steering wheel with the drop airbag before, I have inserted the classic Benz steering wheel from a 98’s 600’s. Fits pure and looks m.M. better around worlds. Only disadvantage: it seems to be a little thinner from the wreath. In order to overcome the brutally high breaking moment of the steering wheel screw, I solved it with a prof. impact screw (under 1,000 nM power no use). With the impact wrench it’s wonderful to be alone. For new assembly a new steering wheel screw from MB for crazy 0.57 € net and the new steering wheel is screwed with 86 nM. The new screws are already equipped with a kind of Loctite. MB parts No. A000 990 62 39. Separate battery in front of it for at least 10 minutes and start the engine after reconnection, steering wheel completely to the left, then again to the right, center, ignition off. of course also the window lifters once completely down and drive up again. Done. Due to the grinding ring of the MOPF1 and MOPF with 2 noses the old steering wheel of the 1th generation does NOT fit because this rear has only one recess.

Good day to the group. I hope someone has a good idea. My SL now has two batteries that are managed via a relay as well as a control unit (R 230 drivers know this yes). Both batteries are NEW ! With running engine and all consumers I measure between 14.2 and 14.4 volts charging current on the batteries ! I have charged both batteries with a CTEK charger to the green point ! After approx. 60 KM drive both batteries have only half power and the starter turn t like with an almost empty battery, although I have measured the charging current. How does that work ? Does someone have a solution or idea It’s about a SL 55 AMG Thank you in advance and soon nice open weather. Lg.

Hello dear community, since you can hardly find any information on the web for the SL R230 and there are no repair manuals to buy, I ask you here once. Where in the SL 500 R230 is the Variodach control unit installed? The problem with the tools: The Variodach often stops at half when opening or closing. ADAC and MB specialist workshop could not analyze or find the error on site. Now I have researched a little. The most common problems of this kind are the following: genden: 1) Switches of the boot boundaries 2) Switches of the boot cover 3) Hydraulic pump 4) Hydraulic hoses 5) Variodach control unit My realization: When I carry out a deep diagnosis via OBD and an app, then it is the case that one can suddenly close the roof again or open it. Therefore, I assume that if the control units are addressed via the diagnosis – especially the control unit for the Variodach in the case – then it awakens, so my guess. I would buy and install a used ECU before I bring the vehicle back to the workshop for expensive money. Thank you for your answers in advance!

Hello together, After having driven around with a W124 station wagon at MT at the end of the 90s (then still as a student), I bought a 350SL today as a family father (44J old, 3 offspring and the better half). Admittedly, rather less for the family than for me and perhaps the elder (12J) – if he was good. The SL has the M112 with 245hp from March 2004. 1st hand, 50T km, PDC, multi-contour seat and the audio30 (grrr) and the usual rear disk sealing repair I have a question directly to you: On the engine (passenger side above the ignition coils – see picture) there is some oil. Where does this come from (if this is typical or known)? Urgent to be active there? Does this come from the seal right next to it? Would it be great if you could give me a direction here. Otherwise really awesome the sled (in particular coming from the Alhambra as a family carriage). And no, I am aware of no one. 500s tested so that I don’t even have the comparison at all. Look forward to discussions here and also one or the other repair on the car. Best regards Carsten

Moin together, I want or have to close the top of my R129 manually (hydraulic cylinder leaks). Lock left/right no problem but this is very difficult to pull. Do I have to open a valve on the hydraulic pump for decompression – like the SLK R170)? If so, which screw would that be? Greeting from HH Peter

Dear SL community, today the weather was fantastic and I wanted to drive open with my SL, but the cover only went up half and then stopped. The cover on the left side was sometimes slightly loose and when it was out of the anchoring came the message “Find the workshop”. After I had locked it in again, everything worked again normal. But now it is very loose and just hangs down. I can’t see how I can fix it tighter again ( See pictures). Does anyone have an idea how to do this or what screw should I use? Thank you and greetings.

After I have tried everything to solve my problem, see my other post “bad gas acceptance….”, I bought a used ECU 0215456832 from VDO 412232/001/012. Unfortunately, the engine no longer starts.With Carsoft is no error in the error memory, however, he has still stored the old ECU. I found nothing in the net that suggests that the ECU has to be learned. What do I do wrong? Must the “new” ECU be learned will be ? can only be done with STAR ? thanks mfg. Manfred

Has anyone ever done this before? My first thought was to put it in the tank lid, but that’s too risky for me if there’s a spark there. Now I think, that there’s the flap below the bumper, behind which the towing port is screwed in. You should actually get there well, cables through an original cable entry or through a stopper. That the cable must be secured near the plus pole, since longer than 30 cm is clear to me. I extend the normal connection cable and add a fuse or buy the original a longer line with an indicator (Ctek). Only how tight is the plug with rubber cover? Does too much water come behind the cover? Does the connection outside the vehicle possibly oxidize jerky? The car has its parking space in front of the house, that is, if the suitcase cover is wet and I want to load, then I first have to hide and look that no water drips in. Ch, whether it is more comfortable. Building permit for a garage is not possible. Moving doesn’t matter. Or does someone have a completely different solution? A flap in the bumper is not possible. At the front you could make something else on the side gills… I don’t know if I really do it yet. Ben