Category: Mercedes SL Forum

Hello, I’m looking for your advice again. Had already asked in another thread because of abc problems. Meanwhile, the pump, bull eggs and valve unit have been replaced at the rear and the level sensors. The deeper laying of the previous owner corrects thus again to normal level. The car sinks at the front wheels and the solution would be a valve block (mistake clearly recognized by mb and rude workshop) error code c3115 as far as I know. Now to my question It was initially rinsed and the black oil removed with the egg (several times rinsed until no more abrasion came ) now the oil is green again. The car drives well during the ride no problems. However, I read at hans hehl that once the oil was so black with abrasion that you can never get that again and now ask me if it makes sense to keep the car and still exchange the valve unit and o-rings. Is it assumed that you can’t get it anymore or how would you v Does anyone have experiences? Is this really so that you have to change everything when the oil was so black? Would he like to drive for a long time the car has 100t km and is otherwise always a staple. I only have to remember that there are always problems after the flushing and the exchange of various parts.Last at mb mannheim the abc control unit was changed. The pump was not broken but loud mb at the break that means she had not disassembled wu However, it was exchanged. Many thanks in advance to Thorsten

Hello, who drives a 129er of the above described category certainly knows the problem of throttle flaps. With me after 80,000 km. Does anyone have experience with it? I found a company in Hamburg that had revised the left one for 298,- Euro and that with warranty. Unfortunately afterwards the rights failed. This is no longer to be repaired and I need replacement. Is the cause of the defect possible to look elsewhere and this is only a consequential damage? I already had the harnesses replaced. Does anyone know a possibility for an exchange or repair? Is there any used on the market? Does anyone have one? Part number MB 0001415525 – Please offer 0160 989 00503 Greetings Jürgen

Hello together, the car was now about three months … without battery in the garage. After installing the battery I re-learned the window lifters – works! The cover protection also goes up and down! …at temp. around the 9 degrees! **Only the hardtop doesn’t want to go off!!! The switch only flashes cheerfully in front of it…** Had I forgotten a setting (wheels hit etc. …) or is the blinking always a classic defect? Thank you for your answers… sl_fahrer The season starts again well

Moin men and women. I’ve got everything ok with my current R230 MASSIVE ELEKTRONIK PROBLEME. the cart just gets so rough on my nerves. the whole summer was actually everything ok and now that it gets cold, the cart pops into my face. if I put the to one of the locations with which I have already experienced, then I can sink the cart directly in the elbe – that’s cheaper and annoying more gentle. therefore here the question, if someone can call a discharge and manyleich even a contact partner, who does not go there first blindly and push 200 talers for searching for wrong places. doesn’t necessarily have to be a branch, can also be something else really specialized. But please someone exactly of such things has an indication. Parts swappers are not welcome here at all. Have I already made several times now the experience, that just be exchanged without having to know why, and after that I have not found all the faults, but I have to say quite a bit of the same thing, but I am not able to tell each other the wrong things.

With my 1996 MOPF1 R129 the central lock no longer works after a trip at just under 40°. I suspect that the key is synchronized, I did it again in all cases, but the second key does not work either. Behavior: When trying to open the car by remote control the lamp flashes to the mirror and handle green, when closing it flashes red. Otherwise, however, nothing happens. The pump of the central lock also seems to be running, one hears an electric motor buzzing at any time and with each attempt to open or close the tone of the engine changes briefly. Can I have a pressure loss in the system, how can I find that, there are typical places? Independently, the SL was about 100° warm, from when did the fan have to run? From the red area it was still clearly removed.