Category: Mercedes SL Forum

Hello SL driver, at my 500er BJ 2002 km 92000Km stitched SL Are rust on the rear wheel, right and left. Do you have experiences or do you have something about Kulanz? Thanks in advance

Hello together, what would interest me once. What does your AI show for a fuel consumption of 55 AMG with 500 or 517 hp in the consumption indicator “Ab Reset” (so not the last 20km down the mountain :-))? At: – average consumption – average speed over how many kilometers maggi001

Yesterday I installed the X-AIO roof module, had a problem with the mass, otherwise everything went Easy. I find the 200 Euron worth. Has already what if the roof goes up and down from the distance, then you can also lower both windows with the FB,open with the inside switch is also cool,short pull or push and you can let go and the roof opens or closes completely.The with the 50 km/h I tested, no problems at the speed, better it is certainly a little long To drive more to close or open, you don’t have to excite it. Andreas

Hello everyone. I have a question, of which I think there are certainly different people here in the forum who can answer it. How can you lower an ABC chassis without necessarily buying an additional control module for a lot of money? I thought so in real sensors or poles or so (to modify this). Workshop with a lot of skill and understanding I have at hand – just wanted to ask here before to not unnecessarily drag the whole (the work) into the length and we may not answer the wrong part first and try. Thanks already in advance. Oh and still what – who can not post anything on my question, it should let – so no answers like – why do you want to lower is shit etc. Please only posts, who can answer my question. Thank you!!! I believe that you have to write this right here otherwise trash me here with your advices etc. only too! P.S. Who does not want to post it – then gladly by PN

Hello together, maybe someone can help me with this problem: I bought and had the new rear apron of the SL63 for my SL55. But now the following problem has arisen: the new Parctronic sensors at the rear do not harmonize with the control unit for the old ones, which are installed in the front apron. Either you buy six new ones and make them into the old front apron(plus control unit) or you buy four old sensors and try to get them into the new rear apron rze, which is of course much cheaper but could have a very decisive hook, namely: the new rear apron has between sensors and diffuser a slight curvature outwards (see picture) and that could mean that the Parctronic will start beeping though nothing is behind it. Maybe someone has an experience or clue about this topic. I know, complaining at a high level and even blamed if you “basked” the car with new rear apron. Many greetings from Ulrich

love sl fan community, since the appearance of the r129 was and is this my dream car. especially the silhouette fascinates me. after more than 18 years and I can now realize this dream as “hobby” or third car. I would like to buy a well-kept r129 (–> as far as possible sl 500/5 gang autom., unbasted) to drive it exclusively at the end of the week (only early year/summer). I guess I will drive for a limited time max. 3 to 5 tkm per year with this car. This will be a rather expensive hobby for me, since I want to keep and maintain the car for several years. I have been intensely observing the r129 market for more than six months. however, I have no time pressure. my question: is it worth buying such a convertible before the “winter break” or in winter, or will there still be noticeable price movements down until the next early year? especially for the still quite expensive r129 series from bj. 1996 (mopf2). especially since I don’t plan di iten dare to drive now in winter, and through the new r230 model care in the next spring many r230/mopf1 used will come on the market. most likely then some r129 owners will exchange their fun car for a “payable” used r230, and there will be again some good (and affordable for me) r129 on the market. or do I see this wrong? thank you in advance for serious tips! greetings from stuttgart summer57

Hello, if I do not drive my SL 300 R 129 regularly, the thing stops after approx. 5 KM. The engine starts to stutter, and goes out. I have to leave the car for about 1.5 hours, and then it runs again. But then without problems. If I then drive regularly, ( every day) I have no problems. But if he stops for about 2 days then I have the same problem again. 5 KM drive, stay lying, 1.5 hours wait, and then go on. Can someone tell me where to drive Is it possible that someone has ever had the same problem. mfg Gerold

Hello, I can / would like to spend about 30,000 euro on a stacked R230. There are some in the price range on the market. what is more useful : 1) an older (Bj 2002-3) with a few km (about 50,000 ) or 2) a newer (Bj 2004-5) with many km (about 130,000) ? Didn’t read too good in the forum about the first models, therefore I tend to 2). There would have to solve all problems like disguise flaps/tanking noises/electronics problems, the recall actions canceled equipment/colour/motor/ is secondary (almost everything is in it as standard) or is there something that should not be missing? I think about resale if something is. Keyless and the command system seems to be popular. I am grateful for opinions/stimulations (quietly don’t take a leaf in front of my mouth). Greeting Dirk

Hello dear community, I am really hard with a used new purchase! We bought a 12 year old Sebring 11 years ago (now 65tkm), which we want to keep first as a winter car. A service car SUV stands for everything necessary in front of the door and a place in the 2nd garage is free. I just want to drive more comfortable and rapper-free and the car would be used by my wife as a new Daily Cruiser (before Corvette C6). After testing in the A207 I was totally thrilled. Quiet, steering class and handy. Engine powerful and powerful. Finally no more rappeln. A dream car found. But somehow the 4 cylinder sound bothered me. Such a nailing (2016er 250er). So that then only with 6 cylinder. Then drove by the buddy with a 2002er 350er R230 (190tkm) with ABC. I was really surprised by the handyness and the car seemed no track effaced – well, a little bit of a lot ;-)! Now I looked over the edge of the plate towards SL. For around the 35TD€ you get such a 350 yes also with mileage around the 50tkm around the year 2008-2011. Now I seriously think: an R230 around year 2009 with old construction from 2001 (though well constructed, but also old), or rather an A207 out around 2015. Both about price equal. Is now so much money for the older, but cooler car from ? Sorry, much to read, but I also get pretty messed up and we certainly want to drive the car again 8(?) years. I don’t hurry up, but I want to have something new early in the morning. You know, “the oller, the doller”.

Hello, I have the following problem with the side flaps of the Variodach: A flap does not work completely out or on. This is because the rack, which is driven by a gear wheel, jumps over. The gear is not pressed enough to the rack so that it slips through. I can lift the rack by removing the lid of the rack (located side by side of the flap) and put it back in the right position, but after some roofing operations slips d There is no damage to the gear or rack, but you can see that the gear is not enough on the rack. Maybe you can make any adjustments here. If one of you has a set-up instruction or installation instructions from the side flaps. For those who can’t start with the term side flaps: These are the boot hood extensions, which unfolded when the roof is open and folded when the roof is closed. ind and then in the trunk lid. Thank you for your help. Greetings Volker