Category: Mercedes SL Forum

2 questions …. The topic has been taken over here many times and I have read a lot about it. I have a SL 500 r230 bj 2003. I get the error message “abc carefully drive”, displayed. I have had a star diagnosis done : error code C 1525-064 system pressure too low. The error comes when I drive a few times over recesses. Some days there is no error message. Otherwise it goes up and down without problems and sinks nowhere. Also I have not been able to detect oil loss. It is not possible to make remote diagnostics, also that is clear to me. Can someone tell me what it might be and does someone know a specialized Abc chassis specialist near Kassel?

Hello, I hope there are now experts who can help me! I have already read the other topics where it is also about the selector lever, but I can’t easily make it up to me….so I’ve changed the brake light switch, but the problem remains. With me the selector lever sticks to P when I start and go to the brake it doesn’t go out at first, then try 3-8 x with the pressed brake and then go. If I stay on the brake and go back to P then it doesn’t clamp and I can switch to normal. But then I let go to P the brake then it clicks in the selector lever and it always gets different again the 5-20 sec. If it clamps and I start the car again at short notice then it goes right away…… Look for me as if it wasn’t a mechanical problem like some have described here!?? Hope you have with RAT! THX JOE

Hello guys, wanted to ask you about this, on my SL500 I installed the AMG rear lights. As far as everything is OK, however, I had to find out that the rear fog lamp only works on the left side. On the right side no bulb is defective, voltage (mass) is also present, everything is fine. In the extended condition of the rear fog lamp I also gave power to the rear fog lamp for the test and see because it works. Only in built-in condition my SL wants to burn only the left side of the rear fog lamp. I wrote the seller to the rear fog lamp and he answered the following: Rear fog lamp can only work in German traffic because otherwise it can be changed with brake light. Is the right? Who knows it? And how does it look at your rear AMG lights? Greeting

What else can it be? Fuel supply? What else did the car pump except the two, the filter? These have been changed by now. Kat I looked in – looks great like new ignition cable renewed, candles, distribution caps again cleaned and fingers, ignites are new, hoses glued on, fuses checked. Lambda probe and the plug on the transmission no change, crankshaft sensor renewed. Ignition control unit other on it no change The car jumps on super. Even if it gets warm it drives still well but then so after about 20min starts the pupfern. It feels harder because it has to drive in spite of the 91er the relay a little bit more empty. Because it just plugs, or misigns or maybe also empty ignitions, as in the empty part at then accelerates. What can it still be? Fuel relay? That somehow doesn’t work properly? Can you put the relay in the 94er test way again? Sensor that is at the gas pedal?

Moin, I have a question: I bought myself a nice 450 SL, Bj 1974. On the drive from the seller, after a short stop in a parking lot, the car did not move anymore, turned around on high tours, I immediately drove off from the highway to a parking lot. At the last meters a lot of white smoke came out of the engine room. I turned off the engine. Later I found that there was no cool liquid. ADAC. The car is now in the workshop. Can someone tell me what that could be. The seller says that it did not happen with him. Oh yes, I just drove about 40 km. Consumption according to indicator 1/4 tank, about 15 liters… isn’t that too much? Thank you for a reply

Hello SL friends, I would like to buy a R129 and are not quite sure what is most useful here. We are looking for a SL pure for the summer (3000-5000KM/year), which remains stable in terms of value. But I’m not sure if we should favor a model of the first series (e.g. a 1994er) with a few kilomters (e.g. 60,000) or a model of the last series MOPF 2 with just under 100,000 KM. We don’t care about the engine – best of all, which lasts long and is very good quality. Since we can only oprically judge and are no mechanics, it is quite difficult to get a really good car. Could I buy auc from private and if so, who can then check the quality? Would so invest up to 20,000,-€. It would be nice if I could get some advice from you. Merci and many greetings Torsten

Moin Moin municipality I have a R 129 500 built in 2002. If I want to start my car after the WInterpause I regularly get a crisis. The battery is connected to a maintenance charger and fully charged. I can unlock the vehicle ( Funk ZV ) everything is unlocked. I can open the cover completely, with engine! It lights up all the control lights as it should be. No error message about the top switch, airbag light goes off, so everything is good! Only if I want to start the train, so turn the ignition key, nothing happens, so nothing starts doesn’t turn! Only after several times the battery can I start the vehicle again! The phenomenon doesn’t occur, by the way, if my vehicle is 2 or 3 weeks, because I don’t come to drive. So only after the 6 months winter break. Do you have a tip that could help me? Greet Romanus

Good day people, My father left me his 280 SLC! Year 76, color: green, automatic, 2nd hand & 185hp……the nice piece has been in family possession since the end of the 80s But then in the winter period the hoses or the cooler burst when freezing the liquid (I don’t know now exactly which of both) which made it impossible to drive because he lost water all the time. My father always postponed the repair until later but it never came to this…so the car stood unmoved for 14 years in a (whole) garage That also left traces (in some places extreme rust spots) So now my question: I tried to restore the car with my father. But first I have to get the engine to run. What do I have to do?? How does it look with a previous oil change? Must the tank be emptied first & new fuel filled? Please for help (because nothing is wrong & risking a motor damage) Here are some pictures:

Good morning, I could use some tips, yesterday I found out for the second time that the car has only 12.3 V of rest voltage, 30 min. after turning off. F25 for the siren (1 year old) I pulled 3 weeks ago, now again problems, but more. Battery jammed overnight and fully charged, clamped, everything learned. Sleeps and stops 12.94 V of rest tension. Distinctive alarm system, only warning indicator, starts when disconnecting and jamming the ground cable. enso. When driving off, set up roll bar as a red warning, placed warning away, only the yellow symbol in the tacho lights up, triangle windows do not open up, lowered as at the door. Do not react, the front work including comfort closure and opening. When learning the triangle windows worked. Comand goes on, but no sound, CD changer: No CD changer available. ZV, seat heating, disc heating, massage, air conditioning, seats, light everything works. SAM Fa hrer, as well as passenger side dry, trunk dry. Will now read out with Icarsoft MB VII. Running functions such as sound system, rollbar, window at the back over one and the same SAM? I am grateful for every tip so that I can exclude it and order it at MB. Does a SAM actually have to be learned? In the door is also a SAM or is that in the engine room driver side? Greetings from Essen Ben

Meal People My wife finds the R230 very pretty, so I would like to give her one. Just like me, she likes the two years after the first model maintenance in early 2006. The most reasonable way to do this seems to be a SL350 with steel suspension, which leaves any hydraulic angs outside. Contrary to that, I sometimes drive with it and I might find the car too lame and maybe drive it like a ride. In addition, you have to find one that is no longer affected by the steering chains / steering gear problem. I know that it is difficult due to the many technology. I don’t drive that fast either. At most 220. But I want to reach this easily. How striking is the difference between M272 and M273 in the car objectively and subjectively? And how does the small one drive in fast motorway curves? At the moment I don’t like it. ls similar vehicle among other things a CL500 with 306hp, which I feel powerfully hard at the border to the property, but just still acceptable. The chassis is great at this because I once fully charged for 11,000€ with dampers, joints, sockets, ball heads, all original parts. Thanks for Enlightenment Nice weekend Eric