Category: Mercedes SL Forum

After the repair with a new sealing ring, I had the impression that the entire hydraulic system is somehow sluggish. Overroll bar only runs up to approx. 70 degrees high instead of 90 degrees. When closing the rear cover, it needs some manual tutoring on the first 30 cm. The cylinder of the roof lock needs some support on the last 2 cm with the help of the bus key to get into final position. In the meantime, I acquired measurement technology and was able to display the pressure. When the control for the rollbar was activated, 170 bar was reached. When the roof was activated, similar values were displayed. Despite all efforts, no satisfactory result. Now the question: 1. Are the 170 bar the setpoint value, or the pressure slips past the seals in the cylinder. How can a sealing pack be repaired on the hydraulic piston? The other cylinders have no noticeable oil losses. Theoretically, there are only two possibilities: firstly, the pump agregate does not bring enough pressure or the built-up pressure loses itself by the piston seal into the chamber of the back / back stage (two ways cylinder back) Is there anything else I have not considered????

Hi, would like to change the comfort battery with my SL500 r230 Bj. 2003 because it is quite weakened and therefore already error messages came to me, however, all immediately disappeared after the car ran and battery was full again. I read that the R230 should be very vulnerable because of the whole ECUs.. Now my question to the professionals here. Have a Varta AGM 70Ah 760A in mind. Would that be in order for my SL? And ever the most important thing, I can do this myself. and I have to adjust the window to the right impact like the steering impact? Do I have to pay attention to anything else? Would be great if someone could give me such a step by step instruction Thank you in advance Edit: somehow this appeared under brabus the thread. Have a normal sl500 no brabus..

hi, I have a slk200 (without compressor) and as you know, it doesn’t have too much power, so I wanted to help the whole thing a little bit. because with such a classic suction motor most tuning measures hardly bring anything I don’t want to chiptuning, fan-curved, exhaust system, … grab, because that gets in total nevertheless quite expensive and hardly brings anything. but with the slk200 there is also the slk200K (with compressor as standard). blem can be to upgrade my slk with compressor!? someone has already done that, or can you tell me what to consider then? so I don’t imagine that that that’s particularly difficult, because the basic motor is certainly the same, so you just have to screw the compressor, exchange a few parts against those of the compressor model, and that’s it, right? I’m grateful for every tip! mfg

Hi, yesterday I saw the new SLK (still slightly camouflaged). It was on the parking lot with us yesterday (at the drinks market by the way). Unfortunately it was already dark and it was in black. I find the look not bad, but it is a matter of opinion. In any case I saw the half hour later drive open, at approx. 0°C. Maybe the driver tested the new neck heating. I definitely found it hard to drive open at the cold outside temperatures. Greeting Matze

Hi friends, don’t you think it’s pathetic that the overgrown Daimler shots like CLK-SL-55 (which I really like very much visually) and Co. especially the CL65 on the Nordschleife against the M3 CSL don’t see any country with its very modest 360 hp? My opinion is that Mercedes builds super cars, but not a single real sports car! The fact that all pseudo sports cars from Mercedes have an automatic says everything! I mean that really not bad, I just think it’s funny that the whole AMG group believes that they are on the road with the mega sports car! They have no question of power, but that ars then too! P.S. I am looking forward to the first comparison of the SLR against Carrera GT and Ferrari Enzo! The last place in terms of sportiness is already certain to the SLR!

Hello, after the disappointment with the new E-Class (just going back to DC because only broken) I think about a CLK convertible – just what? I have offers for annual cars with a few km – I don’t want new cars anymore, I’m not a test driver for DC – once the model W208 as CLK 200 and 320 V6 and on the other hand a 200 W209. Who knows both models and can tell me what one should pay attention to or are there known defects? I don’t want to have to change again after a short time… Thanks e in advance

Hello, a colleague of mine bought a SLK 350 Bj. 2005 with Navi. Now he wants to watch the DVD’s he can only in the stand also while the ride gugn, how does it work? With my VW Passat 3bg, there was a Galla signal cable that had to be pushed. Is there that with the SLK also or does it look different or not at all. Would be nice if someone could help me further. Thanks already in advance mfg

Hello friends, the AMS endurance test of a SLK (base price 49 ooo Euro) shows once again that not all “gold is what shines”. If after 70 000 km the leather seat cover on the driver side is closed and had to be changed, the quality managers at MERCEDES still have a lot to do in the future. That the passenger seat is still OK is also logical. The passenger seat is known to be much less used than the driver seat. Toffteilen are not new either. Even after a short period of use, scratches occur unintentionally on the painted plastic parts. Today it is modern that the plastics are painted with so-called “soft coatings” in order to avoid the cheap plastic impression. These soft coatings are unfortunately extremely scratch-sensitive. Conclusion: Appearance obviously before function. Unfortunately! mfG Joe

Ignition distributor passenger side or to the 4 cylinders that hang there the car has no ignition. Car bought off, then water might come over the two cyndspuhlen. Car started running on 8 yl. 5 min. Again started – ran again well – suddenly so little puffs at little speed but at a little more speed saturate on all 8 yl. Then highway 10min – then starts the pupfer and then car ran only on 4 yl. Put off and found that the cylinders from the z Do not ignite all 4 by the driver side. Adac has measured the fuses and described them as ok. Now the distributor cap and fingers are changed – but still no ignition on the cylinders which are controlled by the distributor cap by the driver side. ### What can this be??? ### How should I proceed???? I have no measuring device and do not know how to do it? Is there somewhere one or more fuses that could protect and be defective? you have been: wire harness, ignition cable, ignition control unit. How can you check whether ignition is on the distributor cap? If the ignition control unit is broken again, could this shut down an entire cap or the current in the area? Please tell me how to continue.

I’m thinking about adding a SL280 (R129) and wondering if I should buy an R6 or V6. Likewise, the question is switch or automatic. I’m rather a comfortable driver. I also want to use the vehicle for the daily journey to work, about 16km easy (even in winter). Can you give me any tips?