Category: Mercedes SL Forum

Hello, would like to give my new purchase R107 450SL a new dashboard and center tunnel before I allow it. Both components are organized and lie in front of me. Would it like to exchange and install it itself, and not leave such a work to the “MB master of my trust”. Does anyone have an installation and installation instructions for the amp board of a 107er, as pdf or similar, where I could hang along? Thank you very much in advance. MFG Ben

Moin dear R231 friends, I have the good Assyst B again in two weeks and of course I try to get rid of as little as possible from the friendly one. That now the plus package is dispensed with and delicious Mobil1 is brought with it is natural anyway. But what caused me to break my head were the Aquablades, which admittedly did not wipe very well. Since this special species of windscreen wipers is equipped with integrated water guide and heating, retains usually the friendly one has the right to exchange these, for the small amount of 170Euro quite kindly. Unfortunately, one can buy the things nowhere in the free trade, what now? I have uncliped the wipers and removed the end caps. (Towel drum) and directly in front of the end caps the metal rails with combo pliers, squeeze a little and pull off the caps simply. Then you can pull off the spoilers with the integrated water tubes on both sides. Now go This is not possible as described in another article with silicone spray. It is because the rubbers in the middle of the picture have some notches, which you can only see when you have pulled the rubber out (the new wiper rubbers are also bomb-proof without the notches). Just pull the edge up from the rail and pull out with a little force on the holder in the middle. Now you have the middle part and the me Now comes the trick. Press both metal rails to each other (with your fingers enough) and pop out of the middle part so. Now you have the middle part and both metal rails in your hand. Below you can recognize the heater of the wipers. Now you take your new wiper rubbers out of the accessories, cut them up to the length of the old ones and muffle both metal rails on both sides into the wiper rubber. Then take the rails with rubber. push the other side with your fingers down, this can be plugged in and pressed back without any tools. Then the spoilers again (real spoiler in the right place, otherwise the next one shows wrong around) and the tubes again completely stick together. Push the end caps again, plug into the wiper arm and enjoy both new wipers for a total of 4,99 incl. shipping. Now completely important: best write the Assyst into the order: “Leave my wipers in peace, they’re new!” Have fun, Micha (who again has super clear view without streaking)

Hello to the round, I had recently had the large belt disc changed in a contract workshop. After a short time I had noticed a slight oil loss below the new belt disc. Probably the semmering behind the belt disc loosened when pulling off/exchange. Is this a known problem or does the semmering not have to be immediately renewed in the course of changing the belt disc? The workshop informed me that during the exchange d it Semmerings the cooler needs to be expanded again and and and and. I probably have to pay for the further costs. Has anyone had the same problems after the renewal of the belt disc? Are there any experiences? Quite sincere thanks in advance and a sunny weekend!

At the moment I’m a car problem tracked by the pitch after the one after the other. The engine started very badly until it didn’t want to skimp, brought the car to a Spanish “Mercedes workshop” which exchanged parts at ignition lock (interior part) although this was strictly turning but before it worked without a wall.He also cleaned the distributor,etc..have paid over 350€.I installed a new cylinder cap with distributor.The next day the car started without problems so I drove to a gas station, at the departure the car did not start again and had to be towed.I tested the Zürsuche you for help.m-f.G.

I got into the R107 Convertible at the Classic Days. I’ve only driven new cars so far. I’m actually driving my current car only on the weekend, so the question arises for me if I need a car at all. A nice compromise for me would be a classic car. Hardly loses in value (maybe it even rises) and is also nice. Now my questions as an absolute classic car layman: Can you use the R107 as a everyday car if you only spend 1-3 days in the W Oche driving? Can one drive with it once a week only to the supermarket? Is such a car even recommended for a layman? What average cost do I have to reckon with per year (about 5000km)?

Hi all, the tuning company väth you know surely all. which offer for the slk200 (without compressor) a tuningkit: “+21 hp through exhaust system and fan manifold” I am quite skeptical… one thing is clear, exhaust system does not bring an increase in performance, and that the fan manifold 20hp and 30NM should bring I can’t believe! cost would be ~1300€ Performance data: 157hp, 220NM/4600 someone already has experience with it, or can take on it?

Hello guys, I’m here again. For a long time nothing happens with the SL. My vehicle: sl 500 , Bauj. 4/93 But now.: Wanted to drive backwards out of the garage. Engine runs, goes out and no longer starts. A look at the tacho element. ASR and ABS. immobilizer can be activated and deactivated. All functions ,such as roof ,closing system,all ok. Starter turns, battery full. All lamps on, on tacho unit. But don’t start. No ignition spark. I tried in the internal All the world speaks of an overload protection relay. But where is it? At least not left in the moto room under the plastic cover, as I always read. What can it be? I am grateful for every hint. Many greetings from Kassel! Michael

Hello together, now it’s time. I would like to buy a R107 380SL. For a long time I have been looking for a car which could be considered a classic car. Since I am new in the field I would have a few questions and would be happy if someone could give me tips. I found a 380SL BJ 1985 in blue for 9,000€ which stands in food from California. This ran 130,000 km. Yesterday I went to the dealer and looked at it with my half-knowledge. r statement is the basic substance in order. With the engine he did a compression test and it would have to be set something to run on all 8 pötten. At the stand he probably runs clean. I told him that I would like to buy this with TÜV and driving work. He would hit on 3,000€ and make me this fresh. In 2015 he would then get an H license plate. Therefore my questions. I would use this only in the summer months. a) Is a 380SL with 204 hp from USA e ine good choice? b) Does the engine differ from the German 380SL (is there different because of fuel or PS?) c) Can you have these tested by an independent professional That would be the first rough questions. I would be very happy about answers. VG

Hello friends of the sheet metal, I am interested in a MB R 107, with 380 machine. The car looks super optical, was painted in the USA “very good ” and is now available for sale. A retired car man has maintained the car and sold it now. My question: I have read it good and worse about the 380 engine many other forums. Is the purchase advisable? Many say, then prefer a 280 or 450, 500er than a 380er. is it true? I want to have Crusen and a metal solid & color-tech. nice car, no racing. The advice in forums goes to the later models from 86, because more mature and younger. But rather wait and pick up one from 86 and then a 280 or 450/500 he ?? Would be nice if you give me advice and help, whether the 380 after all has no bad reputation. Thank you …. Spydermen

Good morning and a nice second Advent.. I’m just looking for a panoramic roof for my SL on the Internet… only unfortunately I don’t get any results… Does anyone have one right now to sell or does anyone know the prices of the dealer?