Category: Mercedes SLC, SLK & AMG GT Forum

Hello, I would like to ask for help here. My problem: – Our SLK R170 PreFl 77,000 km (02/2000) 230k automatic has little power. – We just bought it. 🙁 ->But is not the first R170 with us. – In the MSG stood the P1235 (circuit valve). What have I done so far? – Umluftklappe removed and soldered the soldering points on the plug. – When I was installed, I saw that 3 cables were cut to the plug, just behind the exit from the wire harness (but was an old one). it CUT, since the cables were started and dirty). – Then I soldered the cables together again and provided them with a lubricating hose. – I removed the convection air flap, cleaned the grinding tracks and soldered the soldering points on the plug. – The error in the MSG is now also, without deletion, gone. – With such approx. 2000 (estimated) tours the compressor now switches on. However, the car still has little power. – Only the convection air flap is not closed. – On the pins are +12V and mass on . – At the control line I measure approx. +0,5V (in the stand gas) Someone can tell me which control voltage gets the flap and where they come from (schematic). Although I ordered a used air valve, but it takes a few days to get there. Thanks and greetings … Jörg

Hello. I drive a model-kept SLK 230K, EZ 8.2000, with 125000KM and have the following problem. On good level roads he has a precise straight out. But with wavy roadway or shock stimulation, even at low speed, the steering wheel runs almost shock-like times to the left or right. The Tüv recently had nothing to complain about at the HU. He says chassis, crossbars, wheel bearings, eim Bospurständen etc. everything io. The chassis also makes no noises like grinding, clacking Nothing. I had the track measured at Boschdienst. Was and is io. I also changed the steering damper. However, no change. I drive the summer like winter tyres at the front as well as at the back with original 16 inch rims, tyres 205/55/R16/91V. The problem occurs in the summer like winter tyres. The chassis is original. So no lowerings or anything else. That’s already my fifth SLK. All others had this problem, even with tyres Not. Perhaps one of you has good advice or advice. Thank you in advance.

SLK 200 R170 with rear damage. The plastic bumper has completely restored itself due to the processing but the sheet metal behind and the trunk frames as well as the luggage shell are inflected. Would it theoretically be possible if I dented everything with a rubber hammer or something? How would a reperature fail? I don’t find the right part at 7zap etc., otherwise I would pick it up from the butcher and replace it, knows there more? The trunk also does not go to because the lock nac h is bent inside. Thus the roof does not open either. To go it was easy. On the picture below, it had to be the part with the number 50 and the part on the left without a number.

Hello, I would need your help. My 280 worries me, since yesterday the MKL has been answering again and again. If I read out the error (see appendix) and delete it, it runs normally also with MKL no restriction. EZ. 07/07 194000 Km. Suction tube, LMM, 4 camshaft adjusters are new. It would be great if you gave me information about the error codes. M272 V6 Ottomotor engine number starts with 61xxxx Thank you in advance

Hello together, I bought me the happy oil stop cable for my SLK 280 Bj: 2007 and somehow they don’t fit. According to MB there are no others for my vehicle. Maybe you can help me further! I uploaded a photo once. Thank you!

Hello friends of the old SLK, maybe I have too high demands on the seats on the SLK or generally also on the 210er, 208, and all Benzer from the mid-1990s. Hope I can give you a tip if I can improve this myself or if by upholstery in the specialized company the seat becomes tight and smooth again because then I would like to take the money in the hand. The vehicle was registered in mid-1999 and thus the preFL version with the old seats. The cars from FL are also not better in this area except that the more side support offers. However, the vehicle only ran just over 48 tkm and I don’t know if the previous owner was a heavyweight and the seat therefore looks like this. The passenger seat is almost like new, hang pictures. The vehicle has been in my possession since 2019 and I had expanded the seats over the winter and cleaned in the basement and treated with care products. Actually the whole interior was a If desired, I can arrange a manual including pictures of the repair of the roof cylinder including needed parts and tools as well as the roof sky with Alcantara and the painting of the entire grey plastic parts in anthracite so that it also fits together. I had already completely disassembled the seats of another SLK and repaired defective seams so that i under the seat heating a 15 mm upholstery is installed and possibly this can be tensioned again by a thicker upholstery. But first I hope now for your help or opinions, thank you.

Hi together I’m looking for someone with a star diagnosis in the Augsburg/Munich area who can determine my gear oil level. I’m already trying to determine the stand with a track rod but somehow it doesn’t really work out. Maybe someone who has already measured with a track rod can tell me the length that has to be inserted until the track rod is ready. I can insert the bar completely and then of course have too much oil in it. Or also somehow too little???? ?? I’m also looking for a parallel forum but so far without success. Would I be happy about news, suggestions or/and tips Cu Joe

Hello, everyone. After I sold my SL350 (great car, fun pure ), I have now decided for a SLK350 BJ 2005. The car is from 1st hand, MB Sh-kept, automatic, 175TKm. The chain/chain wheel has been renewed by MB. The good piece had been since August last year after the inspection and the HU/AU (without defects ), in the garage and until its sale no longer moved. Since the hibernation the Vario roof can no longer be opened “Please workshop … ” Message The following errors are stored in the memory (ICarsoft Multisystem-scanner I980):1.) 9057 The component or signal line to the component E18/5(case space light on the left) has short circuit or interruption (light works )2.) 9039 The terminal 30 has a low voltage < 10,5V. Errors are entered especially at engine start. Undervoltage is only present when errors are deleted after engine start and then reoccurred.3.) 9097 The control unit N52 (control unit top actuation) sends No data4.) 911C CAN communication with the Variodach control unit is disturbed5.) 96A5 CAN communication with the Variodach control unit is disturbed6.) 90D2 CAN reception timeout: VD Variodach, ( DBE control unit does not replace! Continue troubleshooting in the VD control unit) Are the two relays responsible for these errors or rather already the control unit ? The errors cannot be deleted either. As soon as you delete them, they will appear immediately. Would I be very pleased about your help. V G

Hello together, first of all only ABS/ESP on my SLK170 230K FL Bj 2002 lit up. I went on with it, because I wanted to look for the speed sensors at the summer tire change. After a few days the motor lamp came in and the automatic switched no more. Diagnosis of MB ESP control unit defective, all possible known error messages appeared. After replacement by a free workshop with an replacement part the errors are still present, in addition now the manual brake lamp and the brake lining display. Error codes are all possible as described by other threaders as well. Since I do not believe that the AT control unit is also defective, what MB claims again is the question of what it could still be. To exchange all possible sensors makes no sense, as long as no communication with the control unit is possible. What have I done so far: fuses checked, K40 removed and checked, all soldering points see s Aber auber off, power supply measured on the ESP connector (upper pins) 12.4V without ignition, 11.7 volts with ignition. Is the power supply too low? can I check otherwise why no CANBus communication with the control unit is possible? I am grateful for all ideas and suggestions. Additional info: Tacho is not working again and again. If I delete all errors (one I cannot delete myself) is at least the engine light off and you can drive in the second gear. rt then again motor light on and only first gear. Greetings Dieter

Hello together, I have been dreaming about the above car for a long time and now I decided to buy one. The car is nice, stands well there but has rust on the front and rear fenders. I think it is relatively easy to repair or keep in the frame for the next few years… I just want to have the car for fun, no races but rather drive open on the country road. By the way, have a skoda superb diesel… What’s your opinion, it’s worth a purchase or Should one rather spend the double for a r171? I know it is difficult to judge without pictures but I wanted to hear a general opinion. Would you buy it again considering that one knows the rust infestation? Thank you