Category: Mercedes SLC, SLK & AMG GT Forum

Hello friends of the old SLK, maybe I have too high demands on the seats on the SLK or generally also on the 210er, 208, and all Benzer from the mid-1990s. Hope I can give you a tip if I can improve this myself or if by upholstery in the specialized company the seat becomes tight and smooth again because then I would like to take the money in the hand. The vehicle was registered in mid-1999 and thus the preFL version with the old seats. The cars from FL are also not better in this area except that the more side support offers. However, the vehicle only ran just over 48 tkm and I don’t know if the previous owner was a heavyweight and the seat therefore looks like this. The passenger seat is almost like new, hang pictures. The vehicle has been in my possession since 2019 and I had expanded the seats over the winter and cleaned in the basement and treated with care products. Actually the whole interior was a If desired, I can arrange a manual including pictures of the repair of the roof cylinder including needed parts and tools as well as the roof sky with Alcantara and the painting of the entire grey plastic parts in anthracite so that it also fits together. I had already completely disassembled the seats of another SLK and repaired defective seams so that i under the seat heating a 15 mm upholstery is installed and possibly this can be tensioned again by a thicker upholstery. But first I hope now for your help or opinions, thank you.

Hi together I’m looking for someone with a star diagnosis in the Augsburg/Munich area who can determine my gear oil level. I’m already trying to determine the stand with a track rod but somehow it doesn’t really work out. Maybe someone who has already measured with a track rod can tell me the length that has to be inserted until the track rod is ready. I can insert the bar completely and then of course have too much oil in it. Or also somehow too little???? ?? I’m also looking for a parallel forum but so far without success. Would I be happy about news, suggestions or/and tips Cu Joe

Hello, everyone. After I sold my SL350 (great car, fun pure ), I have now decided for a SLK350 BJ 2005. The car is from 1st hand, MB Sh-kept, automatic, 175TKm. The chain/chain wheel has been renewed by MB. The good piece had been since August last year after the inspection and the HU/AU (without defects ), in the garage and until its sale no longer moved. Since the hibernation the Vario roof can no longer be opened “Please workshop … ” Message The following errors are stored in the memory (ICarsoft Multisystem-scanner I980):1.) 9057 The component or signal line to the component E18/5(case space light on the left) has short circuit or interruption (light works )2.) 9039 The terminal 30 has a low voltage < 10,5V. Errors are entered especially at engine start. Undervoltage is only present when errors are deleted after engine start and then reoccurred.3.) 9097 The control unit N52 (control unit top actuation) sends No data4.) 911C CAN communication with the Variodach control unit is disturbed5.) 96A5 CAN communication with the Variodach control unit is disturbed6.) 90D2 CAN reception timeout: VD Variodach, ( DBE control unit does not replace! Continue troubleshooting in the VD control unit) Are the two relays responsible for these errors or rather already the control unit ? The errors cannot be deleted either. As soon as you delete them, they will appear immediately. Would I be very pleased about your help. V G

Hello together, first of all only ABS/ESP on my SLK170 230K FL Bj 2002 lit up. I went on with it, because I wanted to look for the speed sensors at the summer tire change. After a few days the motor lamp came in and the automatic switched no more. Diagnosis of MB ESP control unit defective, all possible known error messages appeared. After replacement by a free workshop with an replacement part the errors are still present, in addition now the manual brake lamp and the brake lining display. Error codes are all possible as described by other threaders as well. Since I do not believe that the AT control unit is also defective, what MB claims again is the question of what it could still be. To exchange all possible sensors makes no sense, as long as no communication with the control unit is possible. What have I done so far: fuses checked, K40 removed and checked, all soldering points see s Aber auber off, power supply measured on the ESP connector (upper pins) 12.4V without ignition, 11.7 volts with ignition. Is the power supply too low? can I check otherwise why no CANBus communication with the control unit is possible? I am grateful for all ideas and suggestions. Additional info: Tacho is not working again and again. If I delete all errors (one I cannot delete myself) is at least the engine light off and you can drive in the second gear. rt then again motor light on and only first gear. Greetings Dieter

Hello together, I have been dreaming about the above car for a long time and now I decided to buy one. The car is nice, stands well there but has rust on the front and rear fenders. I think it is relatively easy to repair or keep in the frame for the next few years… I just want to have the car for fun, no races but rather drive open on the country road. By the way, have a skoda superb diesel… What’s your opinion, it’s worth a purchase or Should one rather spend the double for a r171? I know it is difficult to judge without pictures but I wanted to hear a general opinion. Would you buy it again considering that one knows the rust infestation? Thank you

Have you got good addresses regarding complete winter bike offers? I would like to have 16 inches and of course rims with RDK. My friend has presented me an offer for 4 new tires on rims for 700€. The wheels are needed, probably come from some central location of MB in Zwickau, the tires are new Goodyear with DOT 2017. Thank you for your inputs. Now I’m going to like R open air on the country road, you have to take advantage of the beautiful weather. Have a nice weekend…

Hello together, after reading several articles I checked with my SLK (200 Kopmressor, year 2002) whether there is also oil in the plug/cable. In the connection socket on the sensor the amount of 2 to 3 drops of motor oil was to be seen; the part of the withdrawn plug, which is usually in the socket and the front surface was also oily. I cleaned both and drove to the MB dealer to get an oil stop cable (cost point approx. 25 € incl.). a new sensor (cost point also approx. 25 €). Around the sensor the engine block is slightly oiled. On the plugs in the control unit everything is (still) dry. Now ask me the following questions, to which I have found no answers even after more intensive search in the forum: 1. If I have an oil stop / protection cable built in, it must really matter whether the sensor continues to sweat some oil into the connection socket attached to the sensor. At the latest the S tecker on the oil stop cable represents a barrier for the oil so that it can not crawl along in the strand. Sure, it is not the fine English type, but the oil stop cable should be sufficient, from a purely functional point of view. In other words, you can save the change of the sensor if it does not bother you that (under the cover) a light oil film can be seen around the sensor. If I install the new sensor, then it really only makes sense if it is an improved version of the old sensor (i.e. with an oil stop effect to the connection socket attached to the sensor), otherwise this starts with the oil outlet after some time again. However, this could save you the oil stop cable. Or you go absolutely safely and install a new (tight?) sensor + an oil stop cable Both sensors sin d from the same manufacturer (binder).The old sensor has the part number A 111 051 00 77 The new sensor has the part number A 111 051 01 77 Is it the case that the “01” in the number indicates a newer, improved version or does this number have no meaning in this respect, i.e. one can save the money and the exchange effort, because the new sensor also sweats oil in the connection socket after a certain time and the actually important part is the oil stop cable? someone say or write something about it. Thank you in advance!

Good evening together, I have great hope that through the following error picture so many things can be excluded, that it might have to be almost clear what it is about. I thank you now for your help! My engine did not work on several weeks after a purchase. It was this Dödödödödö noise of a starting engine, but it simply did not make it. No only clapping. Gas gave nothing. For a very long time I tried it. I then informed the supermarket That a defective car could not be moved away from the parking lot and asked for understanding. Back to the car I tried it again. And he jumped on. Looks like he had done well the break I was in at the supermarket. I, worryless as I am, then drove normally until he went out recently even while driving (I was driving very slowly). Also the same error picture, but there I noticed that if I let the corridor come, the car was slowly moving forward. I had the feeling that proper pushing produced a better sound according to the motto: “Now he almost came.”. But it was unsuccessful. 2 nights left, went there on Friday, tried: sprung again and everything was normal. I thought to myself ok, I hopefully like last time a few weeks and wanted to still drive it over the weekend. Now he is about where he is. again Dödödö, tried several times, no chance. To the finish run, things done, 2 hours later. Tryed again. Jumped again. On the return trip (20 minutes) then went NOCHMAL. Again while driving slowly. Dödödö. Everything as always. Not tried so far, is now standing at a gas station. So, I hope that we have so many factors here (car starts again after break, car rolls etc.) that one can rule out so many things that I can read clear suspicions here. Would be grateful for assessments. Incidentally, is a SLK from 1997. MfG Chris

Due to the many opinions and questions here my personal experience and instructions. Should the automatic oil be changed,yes or no? Yes! Why not at the SLK? In the gearbox as much metal is processed as in others also and metal causes abrasion over time! I changed the automatic oil during the 160 thousander inspection. Result much better,just now in the cold season. The transmission switches much softer especially when switching down! ufwand minimally about 1 hour if you take time. To do this, screw out the oil draining screw on the transmission tray and release the oil, then remove the six TORX screws from the tub (attention now run again about 2l of oil ), then turn the crankshaft until the draining screw on the converter visible we, these also screw out about 3.5l of oil. Now the filter in the gearbox ern., is only plugged, the oil tank wipe out with a lint-free cloth and the rubber seal reassembly everything in reverse order, of course pay attention to the utmost cleanliness and all drain screws are equipped with new copper discs. Then remove the seal on the filling tube and replenish the drained amount of oil, with my 230K it was exactly 7l automatic oil and that’s exactly the amount that DB prescribes. I think the other gearboxes don’t have any more inside either. Start the engine and switch through all gears for a short time so that the oil can be distributed, ready! Those who want to be safe can now drive to DB and leave the oil level in contact. Costs: Filter and seal in accessories 11,50€ Oil Fuchs Titan AFT 4134 approx. 9€/litre on the Internet incl. shipping Costs total less than 100€ at DB 400€ and the drive is only flushed, so the filter remains inside, makes no sense because the clean oil has to be through the dirty filter (you make use of In addition to this oil the type Mobil ATF 134 and Shell ATF 134 of DB is released and of course the house mark! With me not a little oil sludge had dropped in the tub and the oil had the viscosity of a blood orange, so it was high time to do something. Hope the report is helpful…….

Hello together, as a real “car-cracker” I think about getting me a convertible in addition to my existing fleet. Although I – how easy it is to recognize by my signature – come from the Audi warehouse, my focus is on the SLK because of the tin roof. The car would stand outside and also have to “ran” in winter as a city car, so that I can shy away from a fabric roof. So far, so good. What I am not quite conclusive about despite extensive foray reading is the choice of motorization and the year of construction (and thus ultimately the price class). The SLK desired should show a balanced balance between expected loss of value and expected age-related repair costs, city traffic without ticking off and make fun on the highway. On the highway it should not blame itself, but here is by no means the focus, since with A6 and RS6 motorway solids already exist. Last but not least: Economicity plays a serious role, because I don’t want to spend money on the best of all things.