Category: Mercedes SLC, SLK & AMG GT Forum

Hello together. I have the following problem: My 170er no longer starts and the fuel pump is no longer controlled. I now found out that my fuel pump relay is sitting in the relay module unit K40 (motor room passenger side of the OBD plug). Have already read some threads to the part and on which pins it is now. Just don’t bring me much if I don’t know exactly how to check a relay. Here a short pin-set of the supposed plug: PI N 1 = terminal 30 (duration+) for relay fuel pump, vein colour red (2.5mm2) PIN 2 = unused PIN 3 = 12V+ for fuel pump, vein colour red/grey (2.5mm2) PIN 4 = terminal 30 (duration+) for , vein colour red (2.5mm2) PIN 5 = mass The 15A fuse that secures the pump is usually required for help !

Hello together I am looking for an acceptable solution for the front license plate holder. Since I have a very short license plate, this holder looks from factory left and right far above my number plate over and that I find optically less appealing. Has any of you had the same “problem” and found a good solution? I thank you already in advance and wish you still nice rest Christmas greeting Martin

Hello, yesterday with my SLK 230K, R170 on a small excursion trip and had to fill up. Until then everything was fine. After refueling I drove the SLK to the side and parked it to drink a coffee in the petrol station bistro. When I came back to drive again I could no longer adjust the selector lever of the automatic. After a few more breadless attempts I called the ADAC to help. The nice yellow angel examined the SLK exemplary, among others tension etc. The fault memory was also read out, but without success. Now I was referred to the emergency service of Mercedes-Benz. This arrived after a short waiting time and got the SLK so far in motion by releasing the blocking with a screwdriver next to the automatic selector lever in a intended opening. He asked me to follow him into the workshop which was only a few kilometers away. Now the SLK was driven to the pit and also taken from below in sight, just so the error memory was read out, without error detection. So now the screwdriver which was still stuck in the opening next to the selector lever was removed and replaced by a properly sanded screw to allow me to return home. Diagnosis : Switching background broken in. Can someone tell me what could be broken here or has someone from the forum fixed the same error. Thank me already in advance warmly about any help.

Hello, now with my SLC 250d over a year and almost 25Tsd km behind me, super car (please don’t again this evil diesel debauchery again). Comand Online (NTG 4.7?) was updated last month to the latest state of the art, have the workshop, because of the expected moon prices, but asked to leave your fingers off the AdBlue. Have a tank with car stubs. Can one tell me how to get to the AdBlue filling level info (yes, except screw up and put nose in)? In the service M I don’t get there either because of the ” hang-up button+Raute+1″, whether engine on or not. Thanks for every constructive tip and all early convertible temperatures even for not Vikings:-)

Hello Where is the infrared sensor for the central distribution at the slk R170 Bj.97 and how do I build it out. unfortunately not suitable in the search function found Prblem the ZV. does not function anymore also the blinker when I press the key. with key open only the driver door opens. but if I press the button in the middle console both doors on so the zv.pump would have to be ok or and it is on the ZV.Sensor or if I am completely d Greetings klaus

Happy new year, I am currently looking for a Mercedes SLK R171 to 1000€. The vehicle is supposed to be a kind of “Sunday car”, i.e. not much is driven. On mobile/autoscout you will already find beautiful models for this amount, but understandable with high mileage. Since this model is already 15-17 years old (in this price category), what must be taken into account. Is there a kind of “Great Service” with components, which at this age / run performance For me it is important, First of all: checkbook maintained, TÜV new, car dealership for 1 guarantee, not tinkered (original parts), 1-2 previous owners Secondary:Automatic, Air Scarf. Anyone else a few tips ready? (Are these models rust prone?) What do I have to focus on during the inspection / test drive? Thank you in advance.

Hello together, since I can not find a clear opinion for my question, I would like to get to the experienced season registered SLK owners ideas for the best possible hibernation. The car is standing since 1.11. in my garage with 3.3 bar air on 18 inch tires. Ctek Polar device connected until everything was green and then deducted again. Sometimes I push the car forward 50 cm. After a week then 1 m back to have the load not only on the tire. What i I have read here that you have to refrain from doing so. Is there anything against it? If so, why? Would you add something else? I have never had a car as a seasonal car. But please don’t discuss why the car is not driven all year round. I have enough spare parts to use in the cold season. Thank you in advance.

With our SLK280 the TÜV has today criticized that the steering stick lever is loose / loose. We never noticed before, if you pay attention exactly to it, the cruise control and turn signal lever move up / down by up to 3mm, if you press e.g. the turn signal lever against the stop. Now the question arises to me whether the MRM is loose and may have broken something, or if only one fixing screw has loosened over the years (I think it is unlikely…). I don’t have any documentation about the area and I couldn’t find any documentation about the fast ones either, I hope here for your experience values, or just from those who were already before the same problem and could describe a short workaround. Would be nice if I could fix this myself without great part effort, because Corona also ripped a big hole in my wallet… Thank you very much in advance – and should the topic have been dealt with already ( I didn’t find anything ) of course a link to it is enough for me. Best regards Chris

Hello together, I have had a SLK 200 year of construction 04/2012 since 2013. Since I own the car it drips in the front of the roof in rain. I have been to Mercedes several times, where the damage was treated only above surface. About 3 years ago one then renewed a complete sealing set worth 2,500Euro. Now it dripped in again at the same place and the roof starts to whistle from about 130 km/h. So again to Mercedes, there they have tested it all and they say, since must a new roof, costs 4,000 euros that I should bear. You have to be able to adjust that? I already know that I can’t do it myself. Has anyone ever had the same problem? I come from the area of Hanover. Does someone know a reliable workshop that knows Vario roofs?

I got the following problem We got the SLK. It probably didn’t start from time to time. In the workshop the fuel pump was probably already changed. Strange is, if it doesn’t start, if you turn the ignition the starter goes on but nothing happens anymore. If you turn up the car from the outside a bit, it starts up again quite normally. Shows then briefly the engine control light, which then goes out again during the ride. Then he drives a few days without Problems and again problem itself. Does anyone have the same problem or advice as I could go on troubleshooting? As the starter goes the battery will probably be fine.