Category: Mercedes SLC, SLK & AMG GT Forum

Hello together, I got a first hand R170 2001 in March, which was gapless with Mercedes to the service and HU. Unfortunately I constantly have problems with the roof, he was several times at Mercedes to the employment, but afterwards the next no longer works. Is there a specialist company, which employs the corresponding experts to the complete basic adjustment of the roof? Optimally wise in the area of Saxony, but also likes to drive into the workshop, if this lo The problem began with the fact that only the boot cover opened under sunlight and the roof only shrugged but did not open, then it worked in the second or third attempt of the switch actuation. The friendly was informed that the roof setting is faulty and it is set. After a short time the same problem started again after collection. The boot cover was set, so it worked for three days. Then the unlocking cylinder in the roof was set. leaks. So in the free workshop, leave the cylinder with a sealing kit and new vehicle sky and again three days later, under sunlight, the boot lid no longer closes 100%, that is, the tips are slightly high and the sides of the triangle discs no longer travel up and the warning sound sounds. After again resetting the boot lid in the free workshop, this now worked 2 days, same problem, under sun radiation the Lid again not right and has to be pressed manually. Now I have the hope that it is a specialist company that has perhaps specialized on Vario roofs, it gets it, that this roof just works as it probably was intended by Daimler. If someone has a good address in this regard, I would be very grateful!

Hello dear Motor-Talk municipality I bought a Mercedes SLK 230 (BJ 98) with 111000km a few days ago. Today I was on the highway and had to find out that the car has at times little power and only about 180km/h runs but then suddenly runs completely normal again from one moment to the other. It seems to me as if someone would turn the power on and off again at the push of a button if you understand what I mean by it. The vehicle was also about half a year, maybe it has something to do with it? What I still noticed was the verbauch. On a short distance (max 10km) at low temperatures the vehicle used over 100km a good 21 liter. On a long motorway ride with 120km/h only 7 liters. Is this discrepancy normal? I think the consumption on short distances seems quite high. I hope you can help me further. Thanks in advance

Servus, I’ve been the proud owner of a 230 compressor FL since yesterday. As I heard, I’ve done a diagnosis and I’ve had a few disturbing mistakes, maybe one of you veterans can help me. (I’m just counting the errors I couldn’t delete.) MOTOR TAXATION (EMS): P200A (200A) DROSSEL CLOCK POTENTIOMETER COMBIINSTRUMENT: 9040 (B1040) CAN COMMUNICATION WITH THE MOTOR SYSTEM IS GESTÖRT. KLIMA: 9416 (B1416) KÜ CLOTHING CLOTHING PUMPE A31M1 BREMSASSISTENT (BAS): C1025 (5025) CAN BOTTOM MOTOR TAXED IS FURDER HAIR. CAN BOTTOM ABS IS FURDER HAIR. CAN BOTTOM CLOTHERS IS FURDER HAIR. CAN BOTTOM ABS IS FURDER HAIR. The throttle valve pentiometer and the climate are self-explanatory, with the miscommunications I have my problems… My suspicion now went to the K40 relay, but before I start to make a fuss, I wanted to ask you old rabbits if you already had something like that, od PS: It also burns permanently the light source control lamp, although the entire lighting on the car works, if that is relevant. Kind greetings, Siggi

Greetings, I have to contact you again with a problem. I have recently been the owner of a SLK 230 compressor in the Mopf version, mileage about 160K. I’ve noticed a strange noise in the engine compartment since the takeover. It sounds like it comes from the left of the engine compartment from the front. More precisely viewed from the left of the engine below, or from the compressor. From exactly 3000 revolutions it becomes clearly audible again. But until then not increasingly, but only from 3000 . Out of interest, I have upgraded the compressor today to take a closer look at it. It can be rotated perfectly, not a game. What surprised me a little, it is absolutely clean. No oil, nothing, as if someone had overtaken it. (See picture.) I had a comparatively old one of my previous still lying with me, this one was smeared with oil inside everywhere. My questions, should that be so, someone has heard this sound already? What I did: Compressor removed and d by hand gone crazy, no game. Camshaft adjuster plugged off and sometimes run, noise remains. Once heard with a broomstick, could also come from under the valve. (Control chain?) I upload two audios, tomorrow I do better again. LG

Hello, would like to buy me a SLK R170 from before 2000. What do you generally think is a better purchase to buy the SLK 200 or the SLK 200 compressor? I heard that the SLK 200 is a lot cheaper in the insurance than the compressor. And I think I heard that the SLK 200 without the compressor also consumes less gasoline.. Would like to hear your opinion. MFG Andreas

Hello guys, I’ve been proud owner of a SLK 230 Bj 1997 – old but tiptop cared for. A huge fun to shower around with it. I also immediately visited the wash road, what I did with my before bought vehicle within ten years about 5 times … The nasty insects didn’t go off in the wash road. What can you do there. With the high pressure cleaner I don’t dare to beat myself – because of the hardtop (it won’t be that dense). And with a It’s not really good for the paint, is it? I finally discovered two stone strokes on the bonnet when I was leathering. I didn’t notice them before. They look like insect shit … So: Actually they don’t really bother me. However, they are slightly rusty (the sheet metal underneath) and that worries me. If I don’t do anything about it: do I risk that the bonnet rusts through me? Is it necessary to get these things quickly. He wants 450 euros to paint the hood. Should I do that? Tüssi, Carolin-Cherie

hello! for about 6 months I’ve had a slk build year 98 with a good 140000 km down.by reading in the forum and the fear in the crack I would have seen a few macks that I didn’t just see I just drove quickly to the benz dealer, absolutely wanted to know if oil is leaking out.Well, after pulling off the plug you saw that miserable already!!I’m not sure if it’s good to use a stopper now,don’t forget how far the oil is already..have so far no appearances,that means the mot orleuchte is “noch” aus!!! don’t like to pay a lot of money for later reperatures.The master thinks I don’t have to do anything as long as there’s nothing to light up what an answer I tell you;-) what do you think it makes sense to put in a stopper or can I assume it won’t bring anything more!? thank you already!!!! gruss JR:-)

Hello, I’m just looking for a chic 350er and notice with horror that almost all used ones “only” have the series climate. Despite former new prices of approx. 75k €, the Thermotronic was surprisingly dispensed with. Since I don’t really get smart from brochures and online operating instructions here my question to the happy R172 owners: The series climate is completely manual, right? Temperature and blower level have to be set manually are and are not automatically throttled or re-regulated after reaching the target temperature!? Thank you in advance and greeting, Marcus.

Hello SLK ́ler, drive a R171 and would like to give me a gift,a roof module! Unfortunately I am a desk killer in trouble and do not dare to install myself. Where can you buy and install a roof module in Bremen and around or who would install a module for me, of course not for Lau ? Thanks already . LG Henry

Hi and nice 2nd Christmas Day still, I just checked the oil from my SLK 3.5 (current and last SLK model) (drive 400 km tomorrow) and once again found that the measuring rod is not good. According to Audi, BMW and now the 2nd Mercedes, this is the worst measuring rod I have had so far (see also picture1). Without cleaning the rod with a cloth before, it looks as if no oil was available (oil rod as dry). After a 1/2 hour stand on a straight surface, my current oil level looks like on the picture (with rags wiped off). 3 times I repeated the measurement, I hope the oil level is right (yellow wedge). Why on the plastic side of “too much oil”, also oil stains (red file) are puzzling to me. Better too little, than with this measuring system try the highest level. 2. Problem: Small tar spotting of freshly tarred roads on grey matt lacquer. Constantly there are small tar stains on the paint surface, which you then have to remove with the fingernail laboriously. But now there are tons of them! How can I remove the tar without getting shiny varnish? With tearent remover? With matt lacquer shampoo it is not possible. Does anyone have an idea or already good experience with it? Nice time still Tom