Category: Nissan Forum

Hello, just bought a SL 500, R230, year 2002. What possibilities are there to improve the V8 sound – cheap -? Car should not sound loud, but sonorous, powerful, dull. Have read about replacing the center silencers with stainless steel tubes. Where can you buy something like this, what does it cost about and how are the experiences with it? Thank you for a few tips.

Hello together – I’m new here and have a question (clear, otherwise I wouldn’t be here)… and please don’t hit it, because the topic was certainly already a thousand times. Come actually from the Porsche world and wanted to treat me to a somewhat newer one. Model 996, because predecessors and successors were too expensive. But the screwdriver of my trust talked me out successfully, because of the most serious production defects. I see the R230 as the only affordable and also attractive alternative to the Porsche. I already had a 500 year in 1993 tested (without a purchase intention, because too old and too many kilometers) and was really very enthusiastic. Now I was offered a very well-kept SL 350 from the first hand from the MB center, good equipment (only panoramic roof is missing something, but I think it is extremely nice, but you can probably also do without it), EZ 2009, 21,000 kilometers, 7G. I know the very serious predecessor, but can not speak to him at the moment ́, because I would like to have neutral answers. Long talk, short meaning: I have a lot here in the forum and elsewhere, but also about a lot of gear and some problems.

Hello everyone, can need a few tips from you and that is the following, my Sl 500 Bj. 2001 R230 has a problem with the steering, steering wheel is crooked when driving “grade off” and the vehicle pulls very strongly to the right. Can’t remember that I drove in big potholes. The vehicle is hot measured and the track was stopped. But unfortunately no improvement and workshop master said; I should be to Mercedes, ABC suspension could be. With the ABC I only have the “normal” problems, sinks after some time, but that doesn’t bother me. I’m just afraid the Mercedes says all valve units ect have to be new. All 3 pressure stores are new 2 years ago and Pentosin CHF 11S is refreshed every year at the beginning of the season with 4 liters. Thank you in advance. MfG, S.R.

Here in the forum there is already one or another thread about lowering the R230 without ABC. However, it is often about how to get the car as low as possible. With me it is rather the opposite problem. The simplest method is the installation of either H&R springs or the Eibach “Pro Kit” (also feathers. Both sets bring the car . My problem: that is too much for me. I would rather make a lowering of 1 to max. 2 cm on my car. So extremely discreet… Deswg. my question: Are there possibilities to reduce the lowering of the car ? Can one achieve something e.g. about the use of other spring plates? At the Eibach “Pro Kit” there is still the remark: Quotation: The factory-installed spring plates are available in the thicknesses 8-23 mm in DB workshops. This can vary the lowering given here. But I have also often read that this is simply not true. Any tips for me?

Hello, my 380 SL was delivered to America in 1985 with “German” engine – 204 hp, from there 4 years ago brought back by a car champion to Germany. This Mercedes-Kfz champion restored the car beautifully and sold winter 2020/21 to me with indicated mileage 92,700 KILOMETER. This summer I drove the SL for the first time more longer distances and found out that the speed is indicated in km/h, but the driven track (on km-tacho disc) counts in MEILEN, as well as the day counter. Is my assumption true that my car has run about 92000 miles, i.e. almost 150,000 KILOMETER – and I have paid almost 60,000 kilometers too much for it? (The seller – on the topic – responded to me with the reference to the TÜV and the local conversion to German papers).

Dear friends, I’m still fighting with my not always reliably running COMAND system…. (When it runs once, it runs reliably, but it doesn’t start again after switching off once)…. The Headunit and the AGW have been tested and found to be fine! Now I want to monitor the power supply during the reinstallation on the connector of the Headunit and came up with the following question(s): In addition to the LWL there are still plus, minus and the so-called Wakeup line available: 1) For what is the Wakeup line?!? or 2) which connections do I have to monitor to see if the “non-starting of the Headunit” could be due to the power supply. 3) Where is the SAM with the R230 Vormopf and what function does it have? For answers I say thank you in advance!

2 questions …. The topic has been taken over here many times and I have read a lot about it. I have a SL 500 r230 bj 2003. I get the error message “abc carefully drive”, displayed. I have had a star diagnosis done : error code C 1525-064 system pressure too low. The error comes when I drive a few times over recesses. Some days there is no error message. Otherwise it goes up and down without problems and sinks nowhere. Also I have not been able to detect oil loss. It is not possible to make remote diagnostics, also that is clear to me. Can someone tell me what it might be and does someone know a specialized Abc chassis specialist near Kassel?

Hello, I hope there are now experts who can help me! I have already read the other topics where it is also about the selector lever, but I can’t easily make it up to me….so I’ve changed the brake light switch, but the problem remains. With me the selector lever sticks to P when I start and go to the brake it doesn’t go out at first, then try 3-8 x with the pressed brake and then go. If I stay on the brake and go back to P then it doesn’t clamp and I can switch to normal. But then I let go to P the brake then it clicks in the selector lever and it always gets different again the 5-20 sec. If it clamps and I start the car again at short notice then it goes right away…… Look for me as if it wasn’t a mechanical problem like some have described here!?? Hope you have with RAT! THX JOE

Hello guys, wanted to ask you about this, on my SL500 I installed the AMG rear lights. As far as everything is OK, however, I had to find out that the rear fog lamp only works on the left side. On the right side no bulb is defective, voltage (mass) is also present, everything is fine. In the extended condition of the rear fog lamp I also gave power to the rear fog lamp for the test and see because it works. Only in built-in condition my SL wants to burn only the left side of the rear fog lamp. I wrote the seller to the rear fog lamp and he answered the following: Rear fog lamp can only work in German traffic because otherwise it can be changed with brake light. Is the right? Who knows it? And how does it look at your rear AMG lights? Greeting

What else can it be? Fuel supply? What else did the car pump except the two, the filter? These have been changed by now. Kat I looked in – looks great like new ignition cable renewed, candles, distribution caps again cleaned and fingers, ignites are new, hoses glued on, fuses checked. Lambda probe and the plug on the transmission no change, crankshaft sensor renewed. Ignition control unit other on it no change The car jumps on super. Even if it gets warm it drives still well but then so after about 20min starts the pupfern. It feels harder because it has to drive in spite of the 91er the relay a little bit more empty. Because it just plugs, or misigns or maybe also empty ignitions, as in the empty part at then accelerates. What can it still be? Fuel relay? That somehow doesn’t work properly? Can you put the relay in the 94er test way again? Sensor that is at the gas pedal?