Hello dear forum, we are looking at a SLK 280 from 2009 with approx. 220,000 km. Facts: – private to private – checkbook – automatic – xenon – series, no tuning etc. I kindly ask for your feedback (from FL) – is there something we should pay particular attention to with the high mileage? * I am particularly concerned with experiences in the areas: —-motor —-automatic —- exhaust system —-total roof system —-light system – wear parts are of course tested – the search via I-net, forum etc. did not give any answers – I am aware that not many can show such a high mileage Many thanks in advance
Category: Nissan Forum
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Amature cover and leather door panel. Experiences.
So far, it has been quite rare to see fullheathers with beautiful seams on the amature board. Why? It can’t only be on the price? It looks really noble especially at the SLC and is not comparable with the standard plastic. Who of you has experience with it? Cleaning, care and effect in the case of sun exposure. Thanks for your opinions.
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Renew/repair SLK inner colors
Hello guys, I’ve added the R170 in blue and an interior version of Scharz-Sand. Now I noticed a few places where scratches are on the sand-coloured surfaces and the black primer shines through … My question now to you where I get a suitable color replacement. Something like a paint pencil would be awesome but I don’t think there is one for it or? At least a spray can? Would be grateful for any idea. THX @ all
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OM642 air filter changed
Hello forum community, I changed the air filters at my thickness. Did you do this yourself? The instructions in the WIS is a little modest and rather intended for the w164. On the driver’s side I don’t get the rear screw of the luf filter tightened, on the right side the holder is broken. Do you have a trick for this? Best regards
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Moin, short presentation
Moin in the round. I bought a used c320 today. 180tkm,normal traces of use I originally came from the E61 3.0d A corner. No gamebreaker mmn available. What has now been noticed in retrospect: Backup battery seems to be hi. Seller had the main battery changed. (…) Question, the decor in the steering wheel, is there anything new? Lock driver door can sometimes be opened without a key. What can this be about? Where exactly is the backup battery? Question en about questions… Thank you very much
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Switch from 200 (W124) to SLK 200 (R170)
1 1/2 years ago I bought a 200 (W124) year 1989 from my family and am actually satisfied with the car. When I got it, it had 140,000 original kilometers down. Now it has about 155,000 km down. What bothers me, however, are the repairs, which are of course always unexpectedly in the house. Although I look up the vehicle and regularly oil, water, tires etc. (Mercedes workshop, ATU and Free W So far, about 3,000 euros have been collected for shock absorbers, springs, crossbars, cables in the engine compartment, coolers and and and… I don’t know how to proceed and think about buying a SLK. I drive really little (about 10,000 km a year). Is that even more expensive? Sure, Mercedes driving costs money, but for the 15,000 km alone I find 3,000 euros in repairs quite a lot of money. Or is the SLK? What do you think? Switch to the SLK or stay with the W124? Greetings from Hamburg!
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short info SLK 350 cost!
Insurance: 35% sfk19 I pay 42euro in the month for full cash. Fuel consumption….city traffic 12-14liter…autobahn you can come on 10 liters,,,, but even after 500km have empty the tank…that means 70liter that is 14 liters sprit if you run the car so properly…I had an average speed of 130km/h….on the a6 down to the a5 to basel….and it also had traffic….tank was empty exactly after 501km: tax in the year still approx.240euro inspections si And not to be seen every year, but after driving kilometers…that is, the one has the same in the year of the other in 1.5 or 2 years…so not as expensive as you think…I paid 850 euros for the last inspection …there was oil change filter air conditioning filling and what is so part of the inspection…I think that goes in order for such a car…loss of value is certainly also there at slk, but he has a very high reselling value….is in many magazines and te so stated also at the adac. mature you should buy yourself once good and that will certainly hold one to 2 years or more if you only drive in the summer…. you buy cheap… you just need twice as much and not get away cheaper. At the 350 you should think about it because of the winter tires or better you should know that you can only alufelgen on it and only from size 225….also that makes the 350 certainly a little more expensive than the 200….all in all I would say it As I said, it depends on how much percentage and sfk you have and then I pay less with the 350 than some others with the 200s….By the way, it also depends on the insurance company….zb…with alliance I get a discount that I only get because I work in chemistry….ask me no one why…they do it so…I have already asked why, they said that is from above so…presumably one thinks that the chemical worker is the better payer or something… Of course, the spare parts of the 350 are certainly more expensive than the 200s, but that’s probably clear..or!!!
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Electrical defective
Hey zusammen, (R320 CDI, W251, BJ 2008, Vormopf) A few weeks ago I had already published an article here, but I find neither access data to my old account nor the article just about it. The problem that I have is that with my “R” during the ride all the lamps in the cluster instrument approach, tachometer, tachometer, tank indicator and kilometer indicator at this moment off and off – but several times in a row – during this period the “R” also springs off The radio only works “sporadic” or not at all since this error occurred. The problem does not always exist – there are days when the car drives without all these errors as if nothing were wrong, on other days (like today) these annoying errors occur constantly. In addition, the “R” shows from time to time errors like “blinker rear left defective, right defective or “follower turn signal left defective” although no trailer is connected. The “R” was read out only on Friday- My workshop starts from a cable break somewhere in the system, the first guess that was also written here, that it is the ECU in the emergency wheel tray, the friendly one excluded, because he meant the error would occur if it was the ECU permanently nonstop. I am slowly really desperate, because the “R” is so impractical, and I depend on the car. I hope you have tips and can help me. Mfg. Peter
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Typical errors of the R class – collection
Hello my warranty expires and therefore I still want to knock off typical errors of the R class, which have occurred and which I would like to check with my vehicle in this context. (In remember still well a defective crossbar with another brand which was broken 1 month after the regular warranty. O Ton: “Well that usually comes with the Km power…..” This thread is not flattering and I don’t want to start polemization here! Some of them will be typical – others will be more out of the way. ALSO PLEASE NO LONG HISTORY! ONLY ACTUAL REPARATURES AND NO “NORMAL” DISCLOSURE (e.g. brake pads ) – steering knarzt- steering bar changed (60000km/culance ) – 7 gear automatic slightly shaky after service routine change better (60000km) – sliding roof gear jumps over- re-calibrated (60000km/culance) – rust problem (see thread, culant ) – New Di – battery weak (62000 km) – engine leaks oil – filling plug in the back of the engine with new seal (65000 km/culence) – oil level warning indicator does not work properly (75000 km) – power supply cigarette lighter center console failed (75000 km) “WHERE AUTO SO HAD THE R CLASS FILLERS – BUT IT WAS NOT A FILLER TO BUY” *TO PEACE*
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dach no longer goes right please for help
Hello the roof of the slk is not powerful for me.You can only take it out with 2 people.What can I do about it? please help