Dear community, I was at the bakery this morning and I became aware of a beautiful G-Class of an older man, with whom I also talked. I wanted to get more information about the vehicle now, but find absolutely nothing about the vehicle. It must be a w460/461 or one of the early w463. It was definitely the old design language of the 90s. To the vehicle: – on the vehicle stood at the rear G400D – the vehicle had the chrome front guard, which meanwhile – it was a two-doorer. – on the roof was a spoiler – it had the striking double sidepipes I hope you can help me, since I found only a G400 CDI, but it doesn’t look like the one I saw. Edit: Apparently it has to be a 400CDI… Does anyone know if it is a special model or something?
Category: Nissan Forum
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Overheating Motor MB 612 d Year of manufacture 1997
Description Heat problem I know there is a lot on this subject, but I don’t get any further… I drive a 612 d, built in 1997, with the five-cylinder OM 602 diesel engine with a cylinder capacity of 2.9 l . When you start the engine and start the engine, the temperature pointer blows out temporarily up to 130 and goes back to the normal range. This then until it is at about 90 degrees. If it is at 90 degrees the pointer swings up to 130 degrees and remains predominantly in the red range. If you drive faster than 60 h/km it goes back into the red area and only if you give full gas, the temperature rises at 90 degrees, you take gas away, the pointer goes back into the red area. So I can drive with 110 full gas and it does not overheat. In the traffic jam – even in summer – the temperature remains at a constant 90 degrees. The small circuit is hot, the heat is heated, the heat is heated. large circuit – the upper thick hose gets hot, the lower hose on the cooler gets very late lukewarm. The cooler doesn’t get really warm. The thermostat was changed on holiday from a workshop (the old one checked and it was fine) and the cooling water completely renewed. An additional temperature sensor was installed on the engine block at the upper rear engine block. This adjusts at approx. 100 degrees. Is it an electrical problem, or the water pump or the viscolü fter? Thank you for your help in advance. LG Klaus
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What fat for the leather repair?
Hello together.. also a wonderful Hello to the R230 driver, After a long time I arrived here again with you in the middle (short trips through other forums.. with the result … people so bad what it is not .. and how I find .. Tolerance is only implemented with you… more precise by PN if it is interested and “man” would like to wonder again) To my question: Which fat do you actually use for the leather repair? I have something of an Elephant fat g ehört (leather center) is this okay for the price? Many greetings from NRW and as always I wish you R129 and R230 handlebars a good ride! Sl_fahrer also many happy greetings to our Ortler
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Retrofit TT-C in G 270 CDI – Problem: blower control
Dear community, I’ve been reading with you for a long time and have been able to draw a lot of valuable information from this forum. Thank you for sharing your expertise! However, I can’t get any further on my current question. But I’m short before: I’m Immo, am 35 years old and have been living in Garbsen near Hannover and have been repairing my cars for several years and have taught me most of it myself. For almost four years I’ve been driving a G 270 CDI from 2002 with 270.000 k m. (photo in the appendix with roof box for the holiday.) When I took over the car, there were a lot of things to do. I gradually accepted the problems and learned a lot. I am a big fan of heaters and it always bothered me that my G did not install any. Therefore I bought a universal TT-C and am now busy with the installation. The heating should be switched on via an LTE module. CAN and AI remain outside. So far it is also clear that only the A. I have already read from pin 23 or 26 on the climate control panel, but I only have 16 pins. I can see which cables leave the climate control panel in the schematics. But not what the unused pins are for. Or did I miss this in the WIS/ASRA? What are the possibilities to control the ventilation? In the appendix I put photos of the plugs and pins as well as the circuit diagram of the climate control panel. P.S.: What is this black flap for? chkabel? It does not appear in the schematic. I wish you a nice evening and hope for your help.
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Speedometer adjustment
Hello together and a successful year 2025, I got a wheel set in 2024 almost. Problem is that the speedometer shows around 1-2 kilometers less than the vehicle drives. Can one make an adjustment with _Mercedes or with a suitable star diagnosis ? Thx for your feedback
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Trailer coupling Wiring W463 BJ 2002
Hi Together, I would like to upgrade an AHK on my W463 from 2002. I organized the “hardware” so far. What I still lack is the cable harness. I found a control unit in the wheel box at the rear of the driver’s side “Supplier-Connector” 0295456732(03). Is there original or accessories cable strands that can be plugged in there? I couldn’t get any further via EPC, the part number for cables are NML… the search in the forum did not bring any results, since it is always about other execution I really want to do without frigging, so put cables around everywhere and wire everything myself with Stromdueven… Thank you for tips
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W463 300GE – center console – who knows this plug
Hello and good day. First of all the vehicle data: Mercedes G-Model 300GE EZ: 20.12.1991 VIN: WDB46322717081600 2-door version Gearbox: automatic Due to another problem – had to change a pear – therefore I removed the aperture at the center console. It is the aperture below, where the switches for window lifters etc. are. I found a 3-pin plug, which is not connected. I also find nowhere where it belongs. In the scarf tplan I don’t find this part either. Here are some pictures. Does anyone have an idea for what this part is to use ?? Greetings Johann
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Problem with my G-Class 400 CDI (BJ 2006, 5-speed automatic)
Good day together, I hope for your support, because I have a problem with my Mercedes G-Class 400 CDI, built in 2006, 5-speed automatic. The vehicle starts normal and runs at full power. But after about 15 minutes the acceleration remains, although the gear D is inserted. The engine turns up, but the vehicle no longer moves. After you turn it off, and you let it cool down passes the same problem again. The following has already been tested and out chlossen: Gear sensor has already been replaced Gear oil level is in order Automatic gear control unit has been tested and works perfectly Does anyone have an idea what this might be about? I am grateful for any hint! Best regards
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ism? without changing gears visit workshop
Moin, it’s been quiet for a long time. Today he doesn’t want any more … doesn’t turn any more gear… error message s.o. question, since in the worst case I have to reckon that the ism is fucked up, at least I’ve been so angry so far, does this have to be married to the car or is it going to plug and play ? Greeting
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Experience report: G500 BJ 2002 – Homokinetic shaft – no power cap to the distribution gearbox
Hello, I wanted to share here a short experience report, maybe it will help someone in the future who is struggling with similar problems. With my G500 (built in 2002) with 170,000 km suddenly a blow came when starting up and the engine turned up. There was no more closeness and the G drove no more forward. In addition, a rattle from the direction of the gearbox was heard. I thought at first, the distribution gearbox could be the culprit. The reason: The output shaft from the Getri ebe rotated, even if the vehicle had stood. On closer inspection, I found that the input shaft of the distribution gearbox did not rotate. By this realization, I could further narrow down the problem: It had to be the ball joint or the gearing of the homokinetic shaft. So I had the G towed away and the homokinetic shaft removed myself. Disassembly was relatively easy – you get well, without having to remove any attachments The shaft can be dipped in axis direction, which makes it relatively easy to remove. However, a housing cover was stuck in the flange of the distribution gearbox. This could not be removed completely without any damage, but with a little effort I could lever it out. Interestingly, I found water droplets in the fat. At the housing cover and at some places of the hub was rust, and the notch toothing was completely grunked away (see attached photos). That was the reason. for the problem. Apparently the ball joint in conjunction with the humidity has worn the gearing heavily. I have already ordered a new shaft, which will be installed tomorrow. Overall, the whole damage remains below 1000 euros – so really cheap compared to the exchange gearbox I irritated that the homokinetic shaft in such a way fails. Above all, without major pre-announcements. Has any of you already experienced such a thing? I don’t expect any major surprises when installing it. the new wave, but will still report whether everything works without problems. If someone has had similar experiences, I am happy about experiences.