Category: Nissan Forum

Hello, a lot of text, therefore a division into short and long version as well as Xentry/DAS DiagnosisSymptoms (short version) engine shakes and shakes easily for a week when the car stands at the traffic light. Engine went off once. Errors not reproducible at any time but actually occurs every ride. Sometimes the engine jerks at traffic light 1, at traffic light 2 and 3 but not again from traffic light 4. No power loss and no problems during the ride. Yesterday however, the engine jerked strongly No MKL, only yesterday before the engine truck on the highway. Troubleshooting with Xentry/DAS is difficult. Symptoms (long version) At the beginning of last week the problems started. After I had filled my W221 S500 (M278) I stood at a traffic light. The engine started to shake slightly and went out. After that the engine let itself start without problems and there was no MKL. The next day I had moved the car again and noticed, that the engine shakes again easily when I am standing at a traffic light or in traffic jam. I have been driving good 150km since then without the engine running out, but the shaking of the engine still occurs irrevocably. I can’t reproduce the error myself. After the cold start the engine has always run rough for the first 1 minute. Sometimes I can stand at a traffic light with the brake kicked or due to traffic jams and the engine runs softly. At the next traffic light the motor ruc I don’t notice any loss of power or a jerking during the ride. Yesterday morning the MKL started when I was standing at a traffic light again and the engine had shaken slightly. I drove on, had parked the car for a few hours and left again. On the highway I had accelerated from about 110km/h to 130km/h (no kickdown) until the engine gave a strong jerk of itself without the engine starting to start slowly again and get up the longer I stand. The engine was revised 2 years ago (drive chain + cylinder) with fuel filter change as well as replacement of various lines and hoses. Quotation: P008792 – The fuel pressure in the system is too low. The function or the instruction is faulty. – SPEAKED Quotation: P023628 – The charging pressure sensor has malfunction. The signal offset is outside of the system. – SPEAKED Quotation: P023628 – The charging pressure sensor has malfunction. – SPEAKED

On my OM642.886 the starter A 005 151 29 01 with 1.7 Kw is installed. On the OM 642.887 with start/stop, the starter A642 906 10 00 with 1.8 Kw is installed. Since the start also with heat and full battery became more and more strange, I removed the starter times and looked for the coals. They were almost kpl. down. The unit repairer here around the corner had them built in and there. Before that he made a power measurement of the starter and there were only 1,1 Kw. He also said that the starter with 1.7 Kw is too weak for this engine. Because relatively many have been repaired in recent years. As a counter-example he called OM612 with 2.7 l, here were 2.3 Kw starters installed. Has one of you ever changed its starter for a stronger one (z, for example, 2.0 Kw or more)? Are there any stronger starter for OM642, e.g. for taxi or sprinter? There is also the 9V anchor variant but there is nothing suitable for the O M642.

6 years before Christmas, the Turbo and the Krummers gave us an involuntary pit stop. Today it was time for me to be dragged back again. It had been suggested that there was something there, because there was an error message to the camshaft sensor and LMM. The renewal of the camshaft sensor was not crowned by success, just like the change of the LMM against which I still had. Today on the BAB at Vmax suddenly MKL, engine off. I suspect a mass problem, or MSG is death after 14 years. In any case, backups are all i.o.

Hello! I bought a 300TD engine from E-class (OM606.962) without the electronics and built into my G-car. In one week there will be an important off-road event… Now it’s about commissioning, i.e. electrically controlled injection pump and the turbo control (other regulated details don’t exist anymore I know that people install mechanical pump, but as automation technician I would put the regulations into operation with its own programmable logic. I will be happy to tell you about the result. At the moment I urgently need technical data from the engine, e.g. charging pressure course. Can someone help me?

Hello together, I had reported here that my 190 diesel had said goodbye to the oldtimer meeting on the return trip. It just went off on the country road. After a short break a restart was possible. Again driving attempt fails after 2 km…… So the whole went until I was at home …..about 5 km. The tank sieve filter was closed. Black plague. No pollution in the prefilter…… nothing in the main filter. The engine probably still got minimal diesel. Could on this road however a The engine starts perfectly. Not too warm. Not too hot. Not too hot. Oil pressure perfect….. BUT: The engine runs very rough. Shakes. With a little more speed, the shakes after but the feeling that the engine is rougher. Engine definitely runs on all 4 cylinders. What can that be? Something scraped back with the rudder… ..? But what? The engine was never too warm. Oil pressure was always there. It was missing the spritt…. I would be grateful for ideas. Greetings Tegro….

Since I always stroll around our car I decided for another oil separator. This time a replica of the MAN, which arrived a bit unclean today. Unclean, because the breakthroughs from the spraying were not cleaned cleanly deburred. The part is a lot bigger, so I now have to go to the other side in driving direction left, because down there is not the room. I made a few pictures that illustrate it a bit. I leave the line system at 16mm as this also harmonizes well with the oil separator of the engine and the valve at full load also reliably closes. I will place the drain with a 16mm hose as a reservoir between the engine and engine cover. So I only have to open a ball valve with an additional closure stopper to release the liquid. Maybe something else comes to mind. We definitely a tight box.

Greetings! I would like to completely renew the equipment with my S204 C200 CDI 130 HP (BJ 2007). Background is that there was a workshop a year ago, which then forgot to vent the system, but did not tell me this, and then the next day at 4 o’clock in the morning in Italy (holiday drive) at the gas station had to “solve” the problem. I have cleaned up water. Was there in Italy also still in a Mercedes workshop, and there was correct follow-up still I have a bad feeling in my stomach, also the color (=brownish red?) does not quite match what it should be according to forums, even if there are many different ones as far as I know. Also, the remedy is probably old, since the workshop at that time has re-filled the old one. There should be an exhaust screw, under the underrun protection. But how do I get the air out of the system again? Is a vacuum device necessary? Then I would have to buy a compressor extra for it, which I don’t necessarily want. Is the heating on engine enough to warm up leaving lid open method out here, or is vacuum necessary? I’m looking forward to the answers, LG

Hello together. Thoughtfully made by several threads in motor talk because of the sliding rails in the M 119 engine, and that these like to crumble I made my engine yesterday and determined the following. The engine is an M 119 E50 built in a W124 year 1992 , kilometer level 150000. So time to control all the time. After the opening the sliding rails looked like new, no Vrschlasses broken off etc. But because I wanted to install new ones, so the old ones out. Aut. Then it comes:beim entwicklung notice that the old ones were completely hardened, felt like glass and when opening the closures are broken off. Conclusion: a change certainly does not harm, is not too big a thing, and can extend the life of the engine. With an image of the old sliding rails.

Hello, I bought a used ESP hydraulic block (kpl. with pump and control unit) for testing. My part has e.g. the parts numbers A1705450132 (control unit) + A0034317012 (hydraulic pump) … Example picture attached Has one of you ever unscrewed the round black hydraulic pump from the aluminium hydraulic block? If yes, then I would like to know if you can then install the hydraulic pump again without any problems or if one of you has to fli egen” and the unit can no longer be assembled … Why do I ask this question: I would like to dismantle the pump “destruct-free”, check it (e.g. condition of the coals) and then mount it again on the hydraulic block. Thank you in advance for helpful contributions! (Troll please just keep your fingers still, thank you)

Hello together, the days I noticed that my OM642 (Bj 2007, 224hp, 292TKM) in idle at 600 u/min is shaking/vibrating quite strongly. But you don’t notice anything in the car, but you only look at it on or notice it by hand. My question is if the OM642 drivers among you can look at your engines by “lay on hand” how they behave in idle (not the increased cold start speed)? My cover from the engine is already good at vibrating, abe r as soon as you increase the speed approx. 100….200 u/min that is completely vibrating away. Run your motors at 600 u/min nice quiet??? What I have done with DAS is: – Compression tested – OK – Motor round run – OK (0-1 u/min difference between cylinders) – High pressure circuit test – OK – Leak oil test of injectors – OK (everyone is equal, after 10 minutes empty run were almost 5ml in all tubes) – Engine and gear bearings are 1 year old (FEBI) It is as said only the engine d he vibrates, otherwise nothing, I don’t know if I see or feel ghosts here, but you can ask thanks for your work 🙂 Jan