Category: Nissan Forum

Hello together, after reading several articles I checked with my SLK (200 Kopmressor, year 2002) whether there is also oil in the plug/cable. In the connection socket on the sensor the amount of 2 to 3 drops of motor oil was to be seen; the part of the withdrawn plug, which is usually in the socket and the front surface was also oily. I cleaned both and drove to the MB dealer to get an oil stop cable (cost point approx. 25 € incl.). a new sensor (cost point also approx. 25 €). Around the sensor the engine block is slightly oiled. On the plugs in the control unit everything is (still) dry. Now ask me the following questions, to which I have found no answers even after more intensive search in the forum: 1. If I have an oil stop / protection cable built in, it must really matter whether the sensor continues to sweat some oil into the connection socket attached to the sensor. At the latest the S tecker on the oil stop cable represents a barrier for the oil so that it can not crawl along in the strand. Sure, it is not the fine English type, but the oil stop cable should be sufficient, from a purely functional point of view. In other words, you can save the change of the sensor if it does not bother you that (under the cover) a light oil film can be seen around the sensor. If I install the new sensor, then it really only makes sense if it is an improved version of the old sensor (i.e. with an oil stop effect to the connection socket attached to the sensor), otherwise this starts with the oil outlet after some time again. However, this could save you the oil stop cable. Or you go absolutely safely and install a new (tight?) sensor + an oil stop cable Both sensors sin d from the same manufacturer (binder).The old sensor has the part number A 111 051 00 77 The new sensor has the part number A 111 051 01 77 Is it the case that the “01” in the number indicates a newer, improved version or does this number have no meaning in this respect, i.e. one can save the money and the exchange effort, because the new sensor also sweats oil in the connection socket after a certain time and the actually important part is the oil stop cable? someone say or write something about it. Thank you in advance!

Good evening together, I have great hope that through the following error picture so many things can be excluded, that it might have to be almost clear what it is about. I thank you now for your help! My engine did not work on several weeks after a purchase. It was this Dödödödödö noise of a starting engine, but it simply did not make it. No only clapping. Gas gave nothing. For a very long time I tried it. I then informed the supermarket That a defective car could not be moved away from the parking lot and asked for understanding. Back to the car I tried it again. And he jumped on. Looks like he had done well the break I was in at the supermarket. I, worryless as I am, then drove normally until he went out recently even while driving (I was driving very slowly). Also the same error picture, but there I noticed that if I let the corridor come, the car was slowly moving forward. I had the feeling that proper pushing produced a better sound according to the motto: “Now he almost came.”. But it was unsuccessful. 2 nights left, went there on Friday, tried: sprung again and everything was normal. I thought to myself ok, I hopefully like last time a few weeks and wanted to still drive it over the weekend. Now he is about where he is. again Dödödö, tried several times, no chance. To the finish run, things done, 2 hours later. Tryed again. Jumped again. On the return trip (20 minutes) then went NOCHMAL. Again while driving slowly. Dödödö. Everything as always. Not tried so far, is now standing at a gas station. So, I hope that we have so many factors here (car starts again after break, car rolls etc.) that one can rule out so many things that I can read clear suspicions here. Would be grateful for assessments. Incidentally, is a SLK from 1997. MfG Chris

Due to the many opinions and questions here my personal experience and instructions. Should the automatic oil be changed,yes or no? Yes! Why not at the SLK? In the gearbox as much metal is processed as in others also and metal causes abrasion over time! I changed the automatic oil during the 160 thousander inspection. Result much better,just now in the cold season. The transmission switches much softer especially when switching down! ufwand minimally about 1 hour if you take time. To do this, screw out the oil draining screw on the transmission tray and release the oil, then remove the six TORX screws from the tub (attention now run again about 2l of oil ), then turn the crankshaft until the draining screw on the converter visible we, these also screw out about 3.5l of oil. Now the filter in the gearbox ern., is only plugged, the oil tank wipe out with a lint-free cloth and the rubber seal reassembly everything in reverse order, of course pay attention to the utmost cleanliness and all drain screws are equipped with new copper discs. Then remove the seal on the filling tube and replenish the drained amount of oil, with my 230K it was exactly 7l automatic oil and that’s exactly the amount that DB prescribes. I think the other gearboxes don’t have any more inside either. Start the engine and switch through all gears for a short time so that the oil can be distributed, ready! Those who want to be safe can now drive to DB and leave the oil level in contact. Costs: Filter and seal in accessories 11,50€ Oil Fuchs Titan AFT 4134 approx. 9€/litre on the Internet incl. shipping Costs total less than 100€ at DB 400€ and the drive is only flushed, so the filter remains inside, makes no sense because the clean oil has to be through the dirty filter (you make use of In addition to this oil the type Mobil ATF 134 and Shell ATF 134 of DB is released and of course the house mark! With me not a little oil sludge had dropped in the tub and the oil had the viscosity of a blood orange, so it was high time to do something. Hope the report is helpful…….