Category: Offroad Forum

I’ve been thinking about this for a long time, but I don’t know how realistic it is. I live in the USA and the import of vehicles that don’t correspond to US specs is almost impossible or financially uninteresting. Except if the cars are over 25 years old. And if I look at what people in the USA are willing to pay for G-models, landrovers or other older GWs (especially rare diesel models), then I’ve already thought about whether the worthwhile solc well after 25 years of being on the road and German winter, they probably all look kind of ugly and some things have to be done. Are there certain models that can still be bought at that age? How are resale values for large-volume diesel models in relation to the pollutant classes in Germany or in relation to the H-marks after 30 years? In short, you can get cheaply old diesel GW in Germany or are they all already in Africa or in the Orient? 😉 Greater thought of vehicles sold in the USA as gasoline engines like Mercedes G, various Toyota and Nissan models, T3 Synchro, ….

Hello We are looking for a used SUV as a new “family car”. Requirements profile: – Cars are used every day for about 50 km (land road, partly a lot of gradient) – in winter very snowy, therefore 4WD would be good) – Qualitatively the car should be very good – Driving fun should be available – so enough PS (where it is clear that SUV is not the same race car) – A pram should fit in – Fuel consumption should be appropriate – If it is possible automatic would be good. So, all this should be have/can have the car and do not have more than 50000 km on it, do not be older than 3-4 years and cost as much as possible under 20000 euros. What would your suggestions be? Would the Mazda CX-7 be what? Or rather the Honda CR-V?

Hello together: I am a bloody beginner with many ideas in my head, unfortunately a lot will not be possible, I know that! but to my ‘project’: I have to buy a Jeep Wrangler of a medium old year of construction (ca. from 1998) and to completely disassemble this car with galvanized car and galvanized frame with 295′ he tires and sidepipes (at the B-pillar high) and threshold protection rougher, as well as solid front and rear bumpers rebuild! now my question: because the consumption of approx. 15-18 ltr at 4.0 seems a little high my question about the options: Conversions on gas? With nem 2.5 ‘er likes? or even what is my favorite at the moment: convert to a solid MB or BMW rows 6-cylinder diesel engine with approx. 2.5-3 ltr.? What do you see as useful, what is feasible, what is not? and how do you see my chances? I am grateful for any feedback! Exhaust could look like on this Suzi:

Tach I am looking for inexpensive used off-road vehicles as second car which should drive about 10-15000 km a year. Should trailer up to 2 to (2.5 to would not be bad but not have to) be able to pull, also sometimes over 300km. At the same time also for wood fetching in the forest can be reliably moved away from paved paths with almost 2to trailer (say sometimes forest paths easily muddled..) Thought on what used, bitl screw I can, but a construction site should not be, spare parts well available My presentation:Nissan Terrano from Bj ca 1997/1998, Opel Frontera 2.2 from BJ 98, Galloper or Lada Niva (perhaps exotic consideration..) new…as a grey import…. So two, three weekends I would also put in work, if the vehicle afterwards does not constantly annoy for rust prevention (Niva) or smaller reperatures…. Price presentation so up to 7000 Euro… What to recommend ? Thank you! greet guni

HI Offroader! Since I have now bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2.7 CRD “Laredo” and still have to wait a bit until I can pick it up, I would like to hear your experiences about this model, engine. The car now has 96,000 on the hump but looks like new. The car was not moved in hard terrain. I drove it almost 2 hours sample ( road) and was immediately fire and flame. At the moment I drive an Audi A3 1.6 he Bj 2002. 43,000 Km Quallitativ an entirely different but I like the jeep better! Well that such a car in contrast to my Audi A3 is a bit more uneconomical, is already clear to me but how is so the durability with reasonable care? I always think a little bit about childhood diseases and expensive reperatures that reveal themselves after 100,000 km and more. Another suspension ( Bilstein ) was installed at 30.000 km because the previous owner liked it a little tighter. I take the original suspension as a replacement. agen has also according to the sellers a control chain which should be maintenance-free. Is that true? Does not such a chain have to be renewed also from a certain Km. ?? Thank me in advance about every experience and communication.

Hello! I play with the idea of buying a RRS TDV8. First I thought about taking the TDV6, but I have some respect for the 2.6 tons of curb weight. I can’t imagine that the 190 hp can handle this. But the extra charge is already happy. I think 9000,- EUR. For me only the HSE equipment would come into question. I’ve read a lot about the car. Is that true that the TDV8 consumes more than 15 liters on average? According to the list, the throughput is hnitts consumption at 11,1 liters, 15 liters would be over 30% more. What more should you add to the equipment? So what is still important? I definitely want metallic varnish and tinted discs back. How much discount can I expect? I most likely have a test drive next/next week. But I don’t want to go ignorant. Thank you

Hello! My boss came in recently, and gave me the order to pick out a vehicle for a construction site, but the following should be considered -All-wheel drive -Differential lock -Diesel -wide tires -as much ground clearance as possible -he has to drive on a sand construction site and should not dig in -and it should not be an Audi, BMW, or otherwise a “luxury brand”. I have already picked out some cars, among them the Nissan Patrol, Jeep Patriot and the Mitsubishi Pajero . However, I wanted to ask again what else you would recommend to me, what I might not have thought about yet, or if you can tell me something about the cars I have in the short choice so far. That would really help me a lot, and I want to make a good impression with my boss.

Hi, in view of the increasingly unreliable weather in Germany, I have the idea of selling my motorcycle (either I don’t have time to drive or the weather is too bad) and to get a Defender (short version) with fabric cover, which can be moved completely open or closed depending on the weather situation. However, given the excessive costs of individual traffic, I think it is nonsense to consider three cars in the family, the Defender should simultaneously serve as a replacement for my Opel Omega 2.5 DTI, which I travel as a long-distance commuter every day on 150 km of work. In addition, it would serve as a towing vehicle for my caravan (ZGG 1600 kg). Which model (diesel) would you think would be most suitable for this purpose?

Hello, I’m looking for a 17 or 18″ AT tyre, which can also be driven on the road in winter. So it’s best to have a tyre that is clear from the profile and the rubber mixture with snow and ice. Unroll comfort and volume do not matter. Technically, there should be no restriction, but I don’t find an AT tyre with appropriate marking. Are there any specimens that are still suitable? At the top of the pass you can easily get a lot of snow, at half of the height you have brutal gravel and even further down there is mud and mud. Not to forget the return trip on the highway! Besides, I could do without the set of rims with winter tires and would have more space in the garage. Best regards!

Hello Offroadfans Have you ever been stuck in the mud (or almost) and were on your own? How did you manage that? When all 4 are spinning in the mud, the bock is no longer responding to steering commands and every profile of brown modder is wrapped, the heart rate increases abruptly throwing pairs of branches under the wheels, just helps briefly… Tell me a bit about your adventures…super also with pictures