Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello, I would like to ask a question about bodywork. And I would like to buy a VW Karmann Ghia. I have already chosen a “restoration-needed” object. The car has been in the family since delivery. There is a general overhauled engine and gearbox. The body has almost no rust. Only the vehicle has according to the owner now 534,000 km down. It’s not about the engine ect. I just wonder if the bodywork does not “use” t” is at such a high mileage. A friend of mine said that the body is just a wear part (that’s right?!). He said at high mileages, that bodies are no longer to be used because they become soft?!. Now of course I wonder if it’s still worth building up something like that, I want to put it a few kilometers back. Furthermore, I wanted to know if the statement from my friend was really true, I always thought that e is “eternal” durable in the body if you protect it from rust and don’t care about the mileage? Does anyone know the topic here? Thank you

Hello everyone, one or the other will already know me – because since I sold my first self-restored Quickly in { Das Motorrad } in 1972 I am infected with the classic car bacillus. Others will rather know my employer, the company WAGNER special lubricants in Bavaria – maybe because we have been selling motor and transmission oils in all classic viscosities for almost 20 years – but perhaps also because he uses our legendary gasoline stabilizer BACTOFIN. Or sc Anyway: in the November edition of Auto Bild Klassik an “oil test” appeared about vintage car engine oil, which – to say the least – contains some strangeness. To make things short: we have published an opinion at the address http://www.oldieoel.de/…eltest-in-Auto-Bild-Klassik-11-2013.html. If you are a reader of Auto Bild Klassik, please contact us at: http://www.oldieoel.de/…eltest-in-Auto-Bild-Klassik-11-2013.html. We recommend you to read this information. Of course, as a manufacturer we think about our sales. And I personally at my beloved workplace – you don’t find so many ways to combine hobby & profession. But we also think that so much concentrated misinformation as in Auto Bild Klassik shouldn’t just stand in the room undisputed. Afterwards someone still believes that …. In this sense – good ride for everyone who has an all-year registration and beautiful dreams for everyone, which now have to die by spring

In an amount in the magazine of the MB-Geänderwagenclub was reported about rust aftercare on the underfloor of old G-models, which runs in a named workshop. Does any of you already have experience with the used medium or generally an opinion about it? Are there alternatives? – Cleaning with “Powergel 14” by Matecra, steam radiator, let dry, – mechanical removal of the loose rust with wire brush etc. – “Rost seal” by Matecra forms a phosphate layer of residual rust and seal the whole with epoxy resin, – primer red brown, , varnish matt black. – Underbody wax of Liquimoly. – cavity sealing. Working 18 hours per vehicle.

Hello dear Motortalker, this way I would like to introduce you briefly our new internet portal for vintage car seekers and vintage car owners.www.oldtimer-mieten-24.de We are the search platform for private and commercial providers of vintage car, young car, wedding cars and stretch limousines. If you wanted to drive a vintage car yourself for a long time, you can find it here and contact the landlord directly. Or you look for your wedding, anniversary or for Verans many of us have a classic car, a limousine or just a rare vehicle at home in their garage? Why not offer it at oldtimer-mieten-24.de to rent? The idea for the site was created because I own 2 oldtimers myself. These are also sometimes rented at wedding couples, photo shoots or just for a spin. But there are from every offer the right car. r of vintage cars and wedding limousines always have their own internet presence. This has to be found first. And then the comparison of the individual offers is more than impractical. That’s why oldtimer-mieten-24.de was created. Here providers and seekers can find themselves directly. Without large searches over countless vendor pages. The page is still quite young and the vehicle database is not yet filled. But look at it. For questions, always with it. For criticism and improvement. We are also open to suggestions. Greetings, Maik.

Please ask for helpful tips for hibernation. My baby was in a garage last year, now in the carpot. What should I consider? I found no full garage for my ship. That the battery has to go out and recharge every two weeks, is clear to me. Fill up or not? Here are different opinions. Greetings Vlad

Hello all, I have a golf 1 year 04/83. a few modifications were made so that it is no longer in original condition, besides he has not seen a TÜV for about 10 years and all modifications were not taken from the TÜV. Now my question, do I get a 07 registration number for the car? If no, why not? If so, how does all this work out and which costs also come to me? Thank you and love greeting Alex

hello to everyone, I have bought a can of fluid film as-r and treated my focus ez 2012 to a few places… doors and hood. now I had to find that fluid film attacks the seal under the hood, it swells up a bit… probably the same material as the door seals. all in all not so bad, but how does the product behave with the carousel seal, e.g. at the faltz edges of the doors? there I have also processed fluid film. thank you very much.

We’re just about to make a 61-piece Isabella TÜV-ready. Of course, the wheel brake cylinders are also overhauled. Now we noticed at the disassembly that a cylinder unfortunately has such a plastic part broken, which ultimately also resulted in the cylinder not working clean, because the one pot cuff (probably) bent and thus passed away. The cuff is referred to on the first picture with 9. The part that I’m looking for is sitting directly below. f the stop spring 8 and is unfortunately not present with the overtaking kits. My question is now, what the thing is called, so that I can possibly use replacement from another vehicle. It would also be nice to know what the part does (except to form the support surface for the pot cuff, that is clear), because I think that the hole in the middle is not without reason in it. Images are attached. Would be great, if possibly who could help me. Thanks already!

Moin moin all on the other hand, since my Golf CNG spar bush can no longer be on the road, I need a new car. Diesel is unfortunately mandatory, since I do more than 25k KM a year. Hazards are the new sweetheart only on salt-free road, for the winter months it is preserved decently underfloor and hollow space. I mostly drive long distance (Kiel-Berlin or Kiel-Neumünster), which is why comfort is relatively important for me. I would be willing to take up to 10,000 euros in my hand and ask myself which car you would choose for the above-mentioned conditions. Thank you so much and best regards Tom

Hello to each other, I would need your help briefly, because I am now really unsure. I have put my concern in the appropriate vehicle forum, but I think that I will certainly find experts here. Specifically it is about my BMW e36 325i with H-mark. I was yesterday with my X at HU. The examiner also carried out this, who gave my 325er the H-mark a few months ago. I then also got it on the registration of original ze his statement was “……cannot be done because the registrations had to have been made within 10 years after EZ.” Note that I have all the papers (part-reports/ABE etc.) contemporary brochures, the car letter (with the meetings of the parts) of the donor vehicle (is a similar 325i and only 4 months younger than my car) and the invoice of the parts from 1992 of the company AC Schnitzer. Do you have similar experiences or tips for me or is the examiner actually right ?? Thanks already and a nice weekend Moosi