Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello and good day, I have been offered surprisingly a set of rims which has a change not known to me so far. In the screw holes are currently used eccentric steel inserts, which increase the original hole circle from 5 x 108 mm to 5 x 114.3 mm. According to the owner, the current “excent” steel inserts could simply be replaced again for straight steel inserts. Of course, you would have to build the appropriate inserts yourself. My question: Can you do something like this? Is that really possible and allowed? Do you actually get the rims back from 114,3 to the “original” hole circle of 108 again? How can/should such a thing work, and how was the previous conversion to 114,3 possible at all? I have to say that I have never heard or seen such a thing before. They are beautiful rims, but the screw holes look pretty “hooked” (see picture below) What do you think?

Hello and good day, since the Fern/Abschlendlichter on my bus (a B611 year of construction 61) or my Volvo P1800ES are very modest especially in bad weather conditions, I had to mount two additional headlights or fog lamps on the front-stump. I searched for headlights in the period of the 60s – 70s and also found some models. Installation is no problem, but I have a few basic questions about this now: For many models ga In addition, there was the option “white light” and “yellow light”, where the lamps have yellow glasses, and that for driving light and fog lamps. In ECE R48 §6.1, R98 and R112 it is mentioned that driving light may only be white. However, for fog lamps (ECE Regulation No 19) this exception does not apply. t and can also be light yellow. But what does this look like now with vintage cars? Obviously there was also yellow additional distance light in the 60s-70s. For fog lights (usually) a tint over the glass is not allowed. Obviously this was earlier however different. There are even yellow-tone lenses (e.g. Lucas etc.) that could be mounted on the existing lamps. Is the operation of such “historical” driving light lamps or fog lights with yellow glasses on a vintage car from the The same epoch is still allowed, or is it an issue with every control? And what does this look like when retrofitting clear glass with “yellow” illuminants? I’m looking forward to your answers.

hi auto-talk community, I am 17, make next year mai my license and have the happiness of opis old car to get gifted…mercedes w 123 CE 230e EZ:02.79 I have no idea of insurance taxes gasoline and and and… my questions: what does a catalyst bring? what insurance is cheap? there are tax offices? has a new paint effect on taxes or insurance? how can you press the fuel consumption? will I be able to afford the car if I don’t want to r 1 to 2 times a week relatively short distances driving? for antowers grateful feliks

Hello! I have a Opel Kadett D to buy (bj. 1982)! What possibilities do I have? I have heard once that if a car is older than 20 years old, then you can get an H-mark. What is this? How expensive is the insurance and the tax with such a car? I ask for your help since I have very little idea in the field! Thank you MFG Stephan

Hello! I just posted the following post in the US Cars Forum – but I think I’m better off here! 😉 So on the topic: I have been playing with the idea of getting a US vehicle (preferably a Ford Mustang 1964 – 1969 Fastback) to D! How this works is known to me at least theoretically (Title, Notarial Documents, Customs, TÜV,…). But I would still be interested in personal experiences of you. For example, which hurdles still appear, etc… Is the condition of the car rather in the background. I have an acquaintance who restored in D Oldtimer. I don’t know if he can do that with US vehicles, however! 😉 Bzw. Does anyone know a company that gets vehicles from the USA? Oh yes, I almost forgot. My passion belongs to these old US cars and therefore wants to have more to do with it professionally… That’s why your opinion: is it worth it to operate the above mentioned business? So , bring cars over to D, here possibly restore and sell/rent? Thank you and greeting BavarianII

I have the following problem and I am in despair! My camper no longer has any brakes …. The workshop is baffled and I go under financially if the error is not found. The workshop changed brake pads, brake drum, brake jaws and brake cylinders and the brakes are ventilated. Because of the service life the caliper would not brake properly what should lie down with the time… (so the workshop) The test drive has shown that the car pulls to the left when braking. Today it has rains and on the wet road at 30 km/h I made a test brake. Surprisingly: Only the left front wheel has braked. At this time only the front wheel is braking left!!! Now the workshop says I should buy a new caliper…. Can any of you please give me a hint??? What can be the reason if only one wheel is braking?? How do I recognize a defective main brake cylinder? How do I recognize a defective brake booster? How do I recognize a defective brake booster? Brake caliper?

Hello guys, I really want to have a job with cars later on. I like the classic car restorer. But now I know that you can’t learn the profession. How can I become a classic car restorer later on? First of all, I think I need a training as a motor vehicle mechanic, today a motor vehicle mechatronics engineer, but how then, because I don’t think I’m taking a vintage car repair shop with a training as a motor vehicle mechatronics engineer. a chance to have ? Maybe someone knows about it here ? thanks already!

Dear Oldtimer screwdriver I hope a carburetor specialist can help me with my troubleshooting. I have a Simca 1301 S that has built in a Solex 28/35 SDIDA (double carburetor with acceleration membrane device. Now the following problem is with me, actually the car has never really run, I bought the car in quite good condition years ago and only now find time to deal with it. I have re-set ignition valves isw. Diagnosis to misdirect I also say exactly what I did, membrane for acceleration. was no longer ok I renewed, carburetor completely disassembled and blown out or washed out,but unfortunately already a mistake happened to me,the ball valve that sits in the accelerator chamber below was completely fixed,when I wanted to repair it I lost the ball,until now I have not been able to get a replacement and therefore without the ball to collect,that is now nat of course, I hope this is understandable. Now, when I start now, the car only starts when I manually inject some fuel at the throttle valve, however, runs only with chole fully pulled, to the bypass regulation screw, or to turn air regulator screw brings almost no difference. False air the engine should not ds pull, engine ventilation I have briefly to the test,runs unchanged, If I now turn out the idle nozzle(the at the top) and start without the nozzle the engine runs at least with half-drawn choke, I screw the nozzle now with running engine again the engine dies immediately off. Can a carburettor specialist give me a tip here? Thank you already for reading my post. l.G. Gerhard

Hello together, during the last two months I restored my Cadillac as well as I could and registered again last week. I had run the engine often short, moreover there was a ride of approx. 5km to the TÜV and back again. Before that the engine did not run for a year. Now that I finally wanted to make the first exit, the engine did not start at all unexpectedly. It stuck firmly. The starter is new and works perfectly. The valve control at the top of the cover caps looks normal. If I look through the spark plug opening in the cylinder, I can’t find anything extraordinary either. At the front we have then removed cooler, water pump and the cover plate from the engine compartment, where the latter is not completely off, since we do not yet have the recording of the belt wheel. However, one can look into the engine block and it is noticeable that the steering chain and above all the upper steering wheel of the camshaft is strongly worn out. But can the fixed clamping come from this? In addition, I have to say that the engine gave loud blows on the return drive from the TÜV. Our guess was a defective capacitor of the ignition. This was then replaced and at the following test run everything seemed to be in order again. A few days later But there were strikes again and now the standstill. The engine was switched off normally after the last successful start and did not go out while running. Have great worry that it is something bigger. Does anyone know? Thank you, Thomas

I have to buy a new engine before my simca soon (rallye 2), would have been under circumstances someone who wants to get rid of you… now I would only like to know before what this looks like, because of tuv and above all H-character… have an H-character, but remains that ? has someone experience ?