Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello guys, I really want to have a job with cars later on. I like the classic car restorer. But now I know that you can’t learn the profession. How can I become a classic car restorer later on? First of all, I think I need a training as a motor vehicle mechanic, today a motor vehicle mechatronics engineer, but how then, because I don’t think I’m taking a vintage car repair shop with a training as a motor vehicle mechatronics engineer. a chance to have ? Maybe someone knows about it here ? thanks already!

Dear Oldtimer screwdriver I hope a carburetor specialist can help me with my troubleshooting. I have a Simca 1301 S that has built in a Solex 28/35 SDIDA (double carburetor with acceleration membrane device. Now the following problem is with me, actually the car has never really run, I bought the car in quite good condition years ago and only now find time to deal with it. I have re-set ignition valves isw. Diagnosis to misdirect I also say exactly what I did, membrane for acceleration. was no longer ok I renewed, carburetor completely disassembled and blown out or washed out,but unfortunately already a mistake happened to me,the ball valve that sits in the accelerator chamber below was completely fixed,when I wanted to repair it I lost the ball,until now I have not been able to get a replacement and therefore without the ball to collect,that is now nat of course, I hope this is understandable. Now, when I start now, the car only starts when I manually inject some fuel at the throttle valve, however, runs only with chole fully pulled, to the bypass regulation screw, or to turn air regulator screw brings almost no difference. False air the engine should not ds pull, engine ventilation I have briefly to the test,runs unchanged, If I now turn out the idle nozzle(the at the top) and start without the nozzle the engine runs at least with half-drawn choke, I screw the nozzle now with running engine again the engine dies immediately off. Can a carburettor specialist give me a tip here? Thank you already for reading my post. l.G. Gerhard

Hello together, during the last two months I restored my Cadillac as well as I could and registered again last week. I had run the engine often short, moreover there was a ride of approx. 5km to the TÜV and back again. Before that the engine did not run for a year. Now that I finally wanted to make the first exit, the engine did not start at all unexpectedly. It stuck firmly. The starter is new and works perfectly. The valve control at the top of the cover caps looks normal. If I look through the spark plug opening in the cylinder, I can’t find anything extraordinary either. At the front we have then removed cooler, water pump and the cover plate from the engine compartment, where the latter is not completely off, since we do not yet have the recording of the belt wheel. However, one can look into the engine block and it is noticeable that the steering chain and above all the upper steering wheel of the camshaft is strongly worn out. But can the fixed clamping come from this? In addition, I have to say that the engine gave loud blows on the return drive from the TÜV. Our guess was a defective capacitor of the ignition. This was then replaced and at the following test run everything seemed to be in order again. A few days later But there were strikes again and now the standstill. The engine was switched off normally after the last successful start and did not go out while running. Have great worry that it is something bigger. Does anyone know? Thank you, Thomas

I have to buy a new engine before my simca soon (rallye 2), would have been under circumstances someone who wants to get rid of you… now I would only like to know before what this looks like, because of tuv and above all H-character… have an H-character, but remains that ? has someone experience ?

Moin, when I went through the old vehicle letters from my Audi, I noticed that the previous owner, who had already driven the car with H-approval, only had county + letters + numbers as official registration number. So without the H. To my knowledge, this is actually correct, because the H does not belong to the official registration number, but is only an addition. However, with me the H is also registered as official registration number. What is correct and would it theoretically be possible, a second vehicle with my registration plate without H, since it would not be the same registration plate on the paper? And how is that with you in the registration plate? Does your official registration plate with the numbers stop or is the H with you?

Servus together, at the moment I carry myself with the idea of possibly getting older again, and while browsing I came across a MAZDA 929 Coupe, and I fell in love almost immediately. Is Built 1977, about 80,000 km on it and looks like straight from the band, dream condition Note 1-2. Zero rust, the engine dry like the jokes of Harald Schmidt, and no signs of wear … the Frabe is silver and all chrome parts shine like new … So it’s clear what I am looking for a car mine:http://www.mazda929.de/coupe76.htm Only I have experience with old Opels myself, so far the supply of spare parts is still bearable, but what about such a super-rare Japanese?? Are there even specialists for such old Japanese vehicles, am not necessarily what one calls a screwdriver talent… Thanks already in advance for tips and hints … Greeting

I have been the owner of a 72 Mercedes 280SE W108 4.5L US version for a few weeks, with a 3-speed automatic and at my exit today the following happened to me: After driving the car really warm (so 130-160 km/s drove even 20 minutes, engine temperatures were up to 175 on the highway), the Benz had problems with the engine when I stopped in a jam.. the engine temperatures have dramatically increased to 250.. The engine went out of complete and Red lamp has burned! so I parked the car in the highway emergency lane until the engine has become cooler, even 20 minutes, then engine started (Red lamp was still on, but it went out later on the engine run)! I then drove so 80-120Km/s with refueling pause 500Km without any problems!! now I drive also Innerstadt and stay the engine temperatures in circle of 175! is that normal? If you have any tips for me, I would be very grateful. Greeting, Zimo

Hello, I knew I would never learn, but today I was a bit surprised. By a pure coincidence I came across a video that speaks of a cooling system without water: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PykrgzWPQ It is promised that the complete cooling system will work without water. Ed China explains how it is “rebuilt”: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-NfA17q0MQ On the page you will also find a lot of information: http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/classic -cool-180.html Interesting info should be that it is supposed to last 20 years, until -40 degrees and up to 180°C works, that the temperature of the engine increases by 3-10°C, the engine has a little more power (because no longer a pilot is from noet e.g.; sure to relax) and a few other things. The advertising checks, which promise less consumption and more power you can ignore, but I find it exciting that there are other solutions and ways there is an engine. air and water are familiar to me, but not yet. I’m not quite sure what to think about it. If Jay Leno already installs this in his expensive vintage cars, it can’t be bad (), but he also has more money and can allow himself to experiment, but supposedly he has been using it for a very long time. I don’t know whether this “filling” can replace the luefter, the Kuehler and all kinds of water slurry with blind plugs. u At least in my case it is not thought to end, because the automatic start of my E21 is dependent on warm water. However, it remains interesting; what do you think about it?

Moin, I am proud owner of a Mercedes w123 200d bj 78 In the back the good piece has no straps, in the front already. That I can carry both rear and front people is clear to me and that children under 12 years / 150cm can only be carried with child seat. But since I do not take any children with me it doesn’t matter. The question is the passenger seat (with belt) must always be occupied if I am not travelling alone? Or can I theoretically take all 3 seats behind (no While the passenger seat is empty, I ask because it says: “mounted belts must be used.” There are 5 seats registered and I represent the opinion that I can decide who is sitting where (as long as they are not children) I am aware that it is better to drive with a seat belt and I ask myself for any kind of instruction, I am only concerned with the legal situation.

Hello Oldtimer-community, one of my vehicles will be 30 years old next April and should then get an H-mark. What is the order? Wait 30 years from EZ, then have it made TÜV and HU acceptance, then get eVB and new registration plates and then re-register at the registration office? The vehicle just got a fresh HU, that doesn’t have to be made new? Would you like to keep the previous registration number combination, of course with an H at the end. otz H-mark would the vehicle remain a daily driver, accordingly it should not be insured as a classic car. The H would have to be awry to the insurance if I do not want to conclude an olditmer tariff, right? Thanks for reading and answering.