Category: Oldtimer Forum

Moin, when I went through the old vehicle letters from my Audi, I noticed that the previous owner, who had already driven the car with H-approval, only had county + letters + numbers as official registration number. So without the H. To my knowledge, this is actually correct, because the H does not belong to the official registration number, but is only an addition. However, with me the H is also registered as official registration number. What is correct and would it theoretically be possible, a second vehicle with my registration plate without H, since it would not be the same registration plate on the paper? And how is that with you in the registration plate? Does your official registration plate with the numbers stop or is the H with you?

Servus together, at the moment I carry myself with the idea of possibly getting older again, and while browsing I came across a MAZDA 929 Coupe, and I fell in love almost immediately. Is Built 1977, about 80,000 km on it and looks like straight from the band, dream condition Note 1-2. Zero rust, the engine dry like the jokes of Harald Schmidt, and no signs of wear … the Frabe is silver and all chrome parts shine like new … So it’s clear what I am looking for a car mine:http://www.mazda929.de/coupe76.htm Only I have experience with old Opels myself, so far the supply of spare parts is still bearable, but what about such a super-rare Japanese?? Are there even specialists for such old Japanese vehicles, am not necessarily what one calls a screwdriver talent… Thanks already in advance for tips and hints … Greeting

I have been the owner of a 72 Mercedes 280SE W108 4.5L US version for a few weeks, with a 3-speed automatic and at my exit today the following happened to me: After driving the car really warm (so 130-160 km/s drove even 20 minutes, engine temperatures were up to 175 on the highway), the Benz had problems with the engine when I stopped in a jam.. the engine temperatures have dramatically increased to 250.. The engine went out of complete and Red lamp has burned! so I parked the car in the highway emergency lane until the engine has become cooler, even 20 minutes, then engine started (Red lamp was still on, but it went out later on the engine run)! I then drove so 80-120Km/s with refueling pause 500Km without any problems!! now I drive also Innerstadt and stay the engine temperatures in circle of 175! is that normal? If you have any tips for me, I would be very grateful. Greeting, Zimo

Hello, I knew I would never learn, but today I was a bit surprised. By a pure coincidence I came across a video that speaks of a cooling system without water: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PykrgzWPQ It is promised that the complete cooling system will work without water. Ed China explains how it is “rebuilt”: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-NfA17q0MQ On the page you will also find a lot of information: http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/classic -cool-180.html Interesting info should be that it is supposed to last 20 years, until -40 degrees and up to 180°C works, that the temperature of the engine increases by 3-10°C, the engine has a little more power (because no longer a pilot is from noet e.g.; sure to relax) and a few other things. The advertising checks, which promise less consumption and more power you can ignore, but I find it exciting that there are other solutions and ways there is an engine. air and water are familiar to me, but not yet. I’m not quite sure what to think about it. If Jay Leno already installs this in his expensive vintage cars, it can’t be bad (), but he also has more money and can allow himself to experiment, but supposedly he has been using it for a very long time. I don’t know whether this “filling” can replace the luefter, the Kuehler and all kinds of water slurry with blind plugs. u At least in my case it is not thought to end, because the automatic start of my E21 is dependent on warm water. However, it remains interesting; what do you think about it?

Moin, I am proud owner of a Mercedes w123 200d bj 78 In the back the good piece has no straps, in the front already. That I can carry both rear and front people is clear to me and that children under 12 years / 150cm can only be carried with child seat. But since I do not take any children with me it doesn’t matter. The question is the passenger seat (with belt) must always be occupied if I am not travelling alone? Or can I theoretically take all 3 seats behind (no While the passenger seat is empty, I ask because it says: “mounted belts must be used.” There are 5 seats registered and I represent the opinion that I can decide who is sitting where (as long as they are not children) I am aware that it is better to drive with a seat belt and I ask myself for any kind of instruction, I am only concerned with the legal situation.

Hello Oldtimer-community, one of my vehicles will be 30 years old next April and should then get an H-mark. What is the order? Wait 30 years from EZ, then have it made TÜV and HU acceptance, then get eVB and new registration plates and then re-register at the registration office? The vehicle just got a fresh HU, that doesn’t have to be made new? Would you like to keep the previous registration number combination, of course with an H at the end. otz H-mark would the vehicle remain a daily driver, accordingly it should not be insured as a classic car. The H would have to be awry to the insurance if I do not want to conclude an olditmer tariff, right? Thanks for reading and answering.

Hello everyone, I’m new here in the forum, and also new in the field of vintage cars. After years of falling in front of the cars of others, I want to invest my laboriously saved money (about 5000 euros) in my own beginner-oldtimer. Briefly to my basic data: I don’t know much about technology myself, but I’ve read in a little bit and I’m also willing to deepen my knowledge and do smaller work on the car myself. Budget is, as I said, about 500 0 Euro. The car should be moved about twice a week, so it should be suitable for everyday use and sprite-saving. It should already be a real classic car (with H approval), 60s models really like best. Now I have looked around a bit and fluctuate now between a Ford Taunus P6 15m, an Opel record A or B, Kadett A or B or Opel Ascona A. My question now: Do you know any relevant pros and cons about the cars proposed here? t which of the models would I be best served (according to my criteria?) Thank you very much for your answers!

Good evening, I have now almost finished welding my 87 Corsa A TR and now slowly deal with the topic of rust prevention…a much controversial topic with many different opinions if you just type this in at google… so I have this now and would be interested if one of the right reasons is wheel runs outside and underbody: Am at the moment the opinion that I can actually let the original underfloor protection sit there, so put it at the where it looks really good and the rust was not yet. Schweller, wheel track outside/inside were badly affected, just like the end tips.Reperature sheets and own productions are welded in, I ground everything finely cleanly with the fan disc and wanted to put now 2 times with Brunox at the blanks, then paint once with rust protection and then all corners with body sealing mass “gradate” . And afterwards nice thick underbody protection above it. Schweller and cavities vo n carriers or other cavities (motor room ect.) : I am honestly a little undecided, wanted to treat everything with a long hose and first with Brunox and then with cavity sealing, have already thought about Owatrol. Maybe someone has something to say about it. Mfg Thomas

Hello everybody, I would like to know your opinion. Our local Opel dealer has had a silver Opel Corsa A Swing (Facelift, 1991) in its original condition in its exhibition hall for several years. The car was driven by an older woman, is from 1st hand and has original 30,000 km (very honest) on the clock. Three years ago I asked once if the car was for sale and was disappointed. The A Corsa was considered unfor saleable. today I was in the vicinity again by chance and asked that question again… and thus possibly encouraged the sales manager to think about it. If possible, you are ready to leave the car. For approx. 1,300 EUR and in a top condition (no maintenance jam). My question: would you buy such a car at the mentioned price? From my point of view, you can not do much wrong with it as a youngtimer lover, right? Do you think that the car is given good care (would it only be with S 2.000 – 3.000 km in summer) in a few years at the same price or even better sold? I know the Corsa will never be a high-priced classic car, but it is known that there are no more many A Corsas in original condition. What do you mean? Supplements or not? Whether the car is actually sold, I will finally find out on Friday. Greetings

Moin, would like to write a little post here, about my currently running rust fight. I started today to make my rust on the little Fiesta. He has a lot and bad rust, and that in pretty much all known places…and more. (It doesn’t make much sense, I know. But it’s a matter of the heart) I started with cordless screwdrivers and grinding attachments (wire brush, wire urchin, wire disc, grinding cookie, etc) to remove the coarse and loose rust. It was my turn behind the bumper today. After I had the rough way, I pinned rust transducers on it. It will be rusting one way or another, but hopefully I will have 1-2 years of rest (and for the TÜV in February) ?? Tomorrow morning will then continue with threshold, wheelwheel HL and at the front everything again. As soon as the rust transducer is finished, I had to make a primer before FÖRCH rust stop and if necessary still clear varnish. Look is not quite so important. Do you have any other suggestions? How do I best seal this from the inside? Unfortunately, I had to find out that my tank hole sheet is through. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a picture, but I was looking for one on the Internet, which is similar. Has this done already and knows what effort this is or at least how much it costs to have the professional done? Tomorrow I will then write in the further progress here. For tips I am happy to be open. Pictures in the appendix.