Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello everyone, I’m new here in the forum, and also new in the field of vintage cars. After years of falling in front of the cars of others, I want to invest my laboriously saved money (about 5000 euros) in my own beginner-oldtimer. Briefly to my basic data: I don’t know much about technology myself, but I’ve read in a little bit and I’m also willing to deepen my knowledge and do smaller work on the car myself. Budget is, as I said, about 500 0 Euro. The car should be moved about twice a week, so it should be suitable for everyday use and sprite-saving. It should already be a real classic car (with H approval), 60s models really like best. Now I have looked around a bit and fluctuate now between a Ford Taunus P6 15m, an Opel record A or B, Kadett A or B or Opel Ascona A. My question now: Do you know any relevant pros and cons about the cars proposed here? t which of the models would I be best served (according to my criteria?) Thank you very much for your answers!

Good evening, I have now almost finished welding my 87 Corsa A TR and now slowly deal with the topic of rust prevention…a much controversial topic with many different opinions if you just type this in at google… so I have this now and would be interested if one of the right reasons is wheel runs outside and underbody: Am at the moment the opinion that I can actually let the original underfloor protection sit there, so put it at the where it looks really good and the rust was not yet. Schweller, wheel track outside/inside were badly affected, just like the end tips.Reperature sheets and own productions are welded in, I ground everything finely cleanly with the fan disc and wanted to put now 2 times with Brunox at the blanks, then paint once with rust protection and then all corners with body sealing mass “gradate” . And afterwards nice thick underbody protection above it. Schweller and cavities vo n carriers or other cavities (motor room ect.) : I am honestly a little undecided, wanted to treat everything with a long hose and first with Brunox and then with cavity sealing, have already thought about Owatrol. Maybe someone has something to say about it. Mfg Thomas

Hello everybody, I would like to know your opinion. Our local Opel dealer has had a silver Opel Corsa A Swing (Facelift, 1991) in its original condition in its exhibition hall for several years. The car was driven by an older woman, is from 1st hand and has original 30,000 km (very honest) on the clock. Three years ago I asked once if the car was for sale and was disappointed. The A Corsa was considered unfor saleable. today I was in the vicinity again by chance and asked that question again… and thus possibly encouraged the sales manager to think about it. If possible, you are ready to leave the car. For approx. 1,300 EUR and in a top condition (no maintenance jam). My question: would you buy such a car at the mentioned price? From my point of view, you can not do much wrong with it as a youngtimer lover, right? Do you think that the car is given good care (would it only be with S 2.000 – 3.000 km in summer) in a few years at the same price or even better sold? I know the Corsa will never be a high-priced classic car, but it is known that there are no more many A Corsas in original condition. What do you mean? Supplements or not? Whether the car is actually sold, I will finally find out on Friday. Greetings

Moin, would like to write a little post here, about my currently running rust fight. I started today to make my rust on the little Fiesta. He has a lot and bad rust, and that in pretty much all known places…and more. (It doesn’t make much sense, I know. But it’s a matter of the heart) I started with cordless screwdrivers and grinding attachments (wire brush, wire urchin, wire disc, grinding cookie, etc) to remove the coarse and loose rust. It was my turn behind the bumper today. After I had the rough way, I pinned rust transducers on it. It will be rusting one way or another, but hopefully I will have 1-2 years of rest (and for the TÜV in February) ?? Tomorrow morning will then continue with threshold, wheelwheel HL and at the front everything again. As soon as the rust transducer is finished, I had to make a primer before FÖRCH rust stop and if necessary still clear varnish. Look is not quite so important. Do you have any other suggestions? How do I best seal this from the inside? Unfortunately, I had to find out that my tank hole sheet is through. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a picture, but I was looking for one on the Internet, which is similar. Has this done already and knows what effort this is or at least how much it costs to have the professional done? Tomorrow I will then write in the further progress here. For tips I am happy to be open. Pictures in the appendix.

Today I hardly dared my eyes: On the evening drive home from Munich to the Ammersee I suddenly overtook a Mercedes 540K in the darkness of the A96! I of course sat right next to it and waved kindly to the driver, he kindly back. Then I accompanied the ride to the Ammersee, again and again behind him, next to him and in front of him. The thing is the hammer. Impressive, loud, present, large (I drive a Phaeton, the 540K was no less mottled) He drove on his own axle, always between 100 and 120, sometimes on the right track, past trucks … without being afraid to ruin his million-strong car in the November Niesel on the A96. How cool to be? The car was black, white-walled tyres and as a body shape the convertible. Munich H-mark with 540 in the number. The lights all around were strangely bright and clear – probably technically retrofitted, the license plate backlit. The car then drove my exit on the A. mmersee-Westufer out, through Schondorf through – where unfortunately I had to turn – and further towards Utting. Does anyone know the vehicle? Or the owner? There shouldn’t be so many of them here in D at all? I’m still on high blood pressure …

Hello. Before I had my volume divider overtaken after a very long service life (in the Porsche 928), it ran very clean and normal with “Startpilot”. After the outdated volume divider is in it (plus outdated warm-up regulator, new injection nozzles and new vacuum hoses ) it runs catastrophically after the start. I did not have it set at the CO tester yet, because the old timing belt is to be changed, but is not something extreme : massive white Qu alm from the exhaust, hard engine run, possibly not on all cylinders, and strong fuel tank. Even if it has not yet been adjusted, is this extreme after it ran with start pilot so clean and without smoke and even without stench, according to your assessment, not a sign that something has gone wrong ? (I first suspected a punctured cylinder head seal, but there is no water in the oil according to the marking rod).

In short: BMW E36 325i 1993 in condition 1-2. Technically and optically impeccable. However, it has 325’000km. Does it make sense at all to cherish and maintain the car in the sense of a value preservation, in order to be able to take a value increase with appropriate market development, if due to the high KM-stand a classification as a coveted youngtimer can not be expected to take place? In my opinion everything is over due to the KM-stand: The value of the car lies for me n My car, my time invested, I know that part XY has been replaced and lasts again for 30 years. Until the KM stand doesn’t matter, you have to reach Porsche Oldtimer level where everyone wants to buy everything. I don’t see it here. How would you handle a more or less sought-after youngtimer in very good condition, which has a very high KM stand?

Hello, with our ID19 BJ 68 the straps – especially on the driver’s side – are quite worn out. These are original 3-point static belts, which are no longer available (mostly used in similar condition). A retrofit on 3-point automatic belts (which are offered for the model) is not possible for me. (Originality and optics – the automatic roller has to be screwed to the floor plate for space reasons ) Now I think about whether it is not possible would be to replace only the straps and to use the old fittings and fixing eyelets. To do this, new straps would have to be sewn together to form the necessary loops etc. for the fastening points and belt locks. Someone knows whether this is permissible or whether autosattler can do such work (may).

You can make several crosses ! Hello, since the oldtimer forum is a bit busy again , I would like to know what reasons you could speak or speak for it, to buy a oldtimer or youngtimer / youngtimer . So I think that an oldie is more than just the money that is in it . I have at least had the experience that if you buy an oldie, which then also looks like something special, or should look at it. I too, how v iele Others, somehow have a kind of relationship with my oldie. Besides, I think that each car has its own value in its own way. And not only financially, but also in the heart of the owners.And how do you think about it???

Hello people, I know there have been more similar links. Here is a link to the German Bundestag against the banning of older vehicles in the inner cities. Everyone who calls an older vehicle his own and wants to continue driving in the city, I hereby call on him to raise his voice against this forthcoming ban. We only manage it together. This also means all those who might want to buy an older car. Thank you for the help.http://itc.napier.ac.uk/…/vie w_petition.asp?PetitionID=458 Greeting Manny