Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello, I have the following concerns: Have a Golf 2 75 HP gasoline engine. SuperChic!!! MKB:EZ from year 02-1984. The good piece has 393,000 km with the first machine and still runs. The TÜV sees us only in January 2008 – it will not have much to mercenary. The car has so little rust, except a bit of frost. Since I have now taken over a car from Oldi (Daddy) I now have my Golf 2 as a lover piece with me. I can stand after almost 20 years of my own Fa Question: What do you do with it? Keep it? Selling to a novice driver?, who drives him flat on a weekend, I can’t emotionally. Is there something like a museum for it? VW Museum is currently not able to say anything about it because of current renovation work and reorganization. Would that be something for the exhibition hall of a car dealership? Thanks for tips. Rene

…hallo together, …a well-known one of me wants to have his volumex restored in Czechia. does anyone here have any idea where to make such a thing? who has had experience with it?…what do you have to consider?…where are the price/qualitative approximately?…thanks for your support…

Hello, after the body (1967 Lincoln) is sandblasted and primed, it will soon go to the paintr. Finally! But what now with the pile of screws, nuts, small parts, sheets, angles….etc. All these parts must be depainted, derusted and repainted. Each screw individually sandblasting itself is time-consuming. Does anyone have a recommendation for chemical depainted/entrost in their own workshop? (Abbeizer and acid bath?) How can one later the parts best against K Can you practically galvanically galvanize small parts yourself? Not every part gets color. The later painting of the whole sheet metal and visible screws in black is no problem. I don’t want to give the parts to a service provider. Once I don’t know any, on the other hand I want to prevent loss. In addition, all parts here are sorted by assemblies individually. In a foreign company everything is certainly thrown into a bottle. Thank you!

Hi, I play with the idea of buying a 123er coupe… For jux and toll and for insurance technical reasons, so that my insurance premium goes down (I am 20 and no car is registered directly to myself) Although I registered my Lancia kappa via a well-known, where I pay only 600 € a year, would still like to lower with my own percentages… therefore a vintage car! So I have no particularly high demands on the car, it should only technically i be a good condition and the next 4-5 years also survive the Tüv or do not have to be given up due to rust after a few years.. In addition, it should be a coupe, as an automatic and preferably a 280. Fuel consumption itches me little, as I drive it a) only in summer and b) only if I have no desire for Lancia, which I also move at most once a week… So I will not drive the Benz much, max. 1000 km in the summer months… unfortunately there are very few offers for a 123er Coupe in the price range about 3000€. Many obviously have a lot of rust… Well, what is your advice? How much rust is forgiveable? What should I pay attention to exactly in the price range? Buy better in spring? What do you think of this offer:w123 coupe in Coburg Thank you very much!!!

Hello Oldtimerfans, I know, actually this is the wrong forum for my question (?), but since I expect more suitable answers here I thought I’d push myself in here all the time. I recently hit my wife and added an 18-year-old A4. This one has no signs of wear neither inside nor outside and I would like to follow it up and get it as good as possible. If my wife doesn’t want to drive him anymore I would like to moth him in and preserve him. I don’t know if the model will become a classic at some point, but that’s not my point. Whether it’s sense or nonsense: I just want to get a car as good as possible for 20 years. What tips can you give me? As far as I know, the car still has a fully galvanized body. I ask of course now, because this should already start/continue now. Thank you in advance for your answers PS: This vehicle is

what does this look like with cars that have never been registered, because h-mark goes after first registration, or counts car pass then as registration ? btw what is a car pass ? got a car offered that must be at the limit of 30 years, but he only has a car pass

I have been very proud owner of a mercedes w111 for 2 days. I bought this car cheaply, because it did not get the TÜV badge. the TÜV report reads like the menu of a 5 star restaurant, not so nice but just as long. well, everything is exchangeable, weldable but after a short car ride of about 40 km I put off the car and 10 minutes later I wanted to leave again. the starter ordered but the engine didn’t jump on. given twice full gas before the battery was completely empty, I waited for 10 minutes and started again without gas. slowly but surely the engine then ran on 4 cylinders and worked on the 6 cylinders. carefully started the car came at speed, slightly accelerated the engine started to jerk. it runs on the autobahn also loosely constant the 100 km/h but when I speed up, it jerks again. where should I usefully with the lack of search start? thanks and salutes vario

With my cream cut, the temperature indicator in the summer and at country road speed can easily go into the red area. However, there are no cooking or steam sponges from the cooler. It may be that such an old pointer instrument also lost its original adjustment. The question is, which cooling water temperatures are “normal”. I think that because the cooler can have a certain overpressure, this could also be over 100°.

Hi guys, I got a Hanomag RV from my father-in-law. It’s all in good condition, but unfortunately I’m trying to start the thing for xth time, but I don’t start. I’ve got diesel on the jets and I’ve already had the fan screw open, but he just doesn’t want to start. With the help of starter spray he does a good impression, but the last spark doesn’t want to skip. Has someone of you an idea what I’m trying to do? Thank you Gernot

I have a basic technical problem: I have 2 ignition distributors. The one runs well, the other eats capacitors. Now I have installed a new capacitor again and notice that the interrupter contacts “fire” much more strongly than the contacts in the “good” ZV. I tried five (5!) different capacitors (cross-exchanged) and at the “fire” nothing changes. At the ignition coil can not lie, I used the same for both…. What brings contacts in e in ZV to “fire” and to kill capacitors ??? Thank you LG Christoph