Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello together! I have already Googled extensively and also searched here, but find no “satisfying” answer to my question: I own a beautiful old vehicle, which I would like to rent or lend occasionally for weddings or similar events. But: – What does this look like legally? Do I have to register a business for it? As I said, I only want to do this occasionally on the WE. – What does this look like insurance-technically, I then transport foreign persons? We – How can I do “advertising” for it if it is not a business? – What can I ask for it, without the tax evasion being attached to me? 🙂 I have heard (that’s exactly the point, heard, not read and certainly not any documents about it) that if you do this only “inconveniently”, no business needs for it, as long as the “price” for it is only a cost compensation… Say: drive at times a wedding and “only” S price money and what to set up the vehicle for the wedding… Is that true? To the vehicle: an old London taxi Would be nice if one or the other had a tip or link for me! Thanks already and now: discussion free! Greetings Chris

It is about a MAZDA RX-7, construction year: 06/1985, current km-Stand 73,300…. so first generation. The following error occurs rarely, say with every 10th start attempt: The starter spins empty, does not sprint. I have checked or changed the following: – battery is almost new – the thick plus line or the connections pole terminals, starter connection are clean and fixed – Since the magnetic switch is not disassembled, it has been renewed – the starter has been disassembled, cleaned, collector pole The starter bolt has no defects – the flywheel has nothing to recognize – the line from the ignition lock to the magnet switch is error-free Nevertheless the same error ! What I don’t understand is the function of the “one-track and holding coil”, when only ONE cable goes from the ignition lock to the magnet switch. What I haven’t checked yet: the full voltage at the magnet switch arrives…… What could be your answer? am I still to blame ?

Hello together, I have a problem that does not directly have to do with vintage cars, but maybe one or the other knows about it, since it has already happened to him: The following situation: You want to buy a (older) used one from a dealer, but he does not want to take over any warranty for more or less understandable reasons and therefore writes in the purchase contract an additional a la ‘sale to reseller’. 1. Does this really protect the seller from eventu Is it possible that I may have to provide proof of the commercial use of the vehicle or even pay VAT if I use the car privately as planned? Many thanks and happy Easter thunderbolts

Day together, says someone the days happened like me? I with my Mercedes W 123, 230 E to the registration office and finally registered again. After he has come through TÜV and AU without complaint. Does the question come to the end also want the fine dust badge? I, of course I take it immediately with me…..On that the lady no, that is not possible that you have the key number 9991 (under 14.1 in the new vehicle license)!!! I yes and how can it go on?–> Not at all the 9991 is not listed and therefore no badge!!! Now to the data, my 230 E is 1982 and was equipped in 1991 with a G-cat. I have no idea now? Tell me what do you do it?? Thanks and greets TE

Hello, I have the following concerns: Have a Golf 2 75 HP gasoline engine. SuperChic!!! MKB:EZ from year 02-1984. The good piece has 393,000 km with the first machine and still runs. The TÜV sees us only in January 2008 – it will not have much to mercenary. The car has so little rust, except a bit of frost. Since I have now taken over a car from Oldi (Daddy) I now have my Golf 2 as a lover piece with me. I can stand after almost 20 years of my own Fa Question: What do you do with it? Keep it? Selling to a novice driver?, who drives him flat on a weekend, I can’t emotionally. Is there something like a museum for it? VW Museum is currently not able to say anything about it because of current renovation work and reorganization. Would that be something for the exhibition hall of a car dealership? Thanks for tips. Rene

…hallo together, …a well-known one of me wants to have his volumex restored in Czechia. does anyone here have any idea where to make such a thing? who has had experience with it?…what do you have to consider?…where are the price/qualitative approximately?…thanks for your support…

Hello, after the body (1967 Lincoln) is sandblasted and primed, it will soon go to the paintr. Finally! But what now with the pile of screws, nuts, small parts, sheets, angles….etc. All these parts must be depainted, derusted and repainted. Each screw individually sandblasting itself is time-consuming. Does anyone have a recommendation for chemical depainted/entrost in their own workshop? (Abbeizer and acid bath?) How can one later the parts best against K Can you practically galvanically galvanize small parts yourself? Not every part gets color. The later painting of the whole sheet metal and visible screws in black is no problem. I don’t want to give the parts to a service provider. Once I don’t know any, on the other hand I want to prevent loss. In addition, all parts here are sorted by assemblies individually. In a foreign company everything is certainly thrown into a bottle. Thank you!

Hi, I play with the idea of buying a 123er coupe… For jux and toll and for insurance technical reasons, so that my insurance premium goes down (I am 20 and no car is registered directly to myself) Although I registered my Lancia kappa via a well-known, where I pay only 600 € a year, would still like to lower with my own percentages… therefore a vintage car! So I have no particularly high demands on the car, it should only technically i be a good condition and the next 4-5 years also survive the Tüv or do not have to be given up due to rust after a few years.. In addition, it should be a coupe, as an automatic and preferably a 280. Fuel consumption itches me little, as I drive it a) only in summer and b) only if I have no desire for Lancia, which I also move at most once a week… So I will not drive the Benz much, max. 1000 km in the summer months… unfortunately there are very few offers for a 123er Coupe in the price range about 3000€. Many obviously have a lot of rust… Well, what is your advice? How much rust is forgiveable? What should I pay attention to exactly in the price range? Buy better in spring? What do you think of this offer:w123 coupe in Coburg Thank you very much!!!

Hello Oldtimerfans, I know, actually this is the wrong forum for my question (?), but since I expect more suitable answers here I thought I’d push myself in here all the time. I recently hit my wife and added an 18-year-old A4. This one has no signs of wear neither inside nor outside and I would like to follow it up and get it as good as possible. If my wife doesn’t want to drive him anymore I would like to moth him in and preserve him. I don’t know if the model will become a classic at some point, but that’s not my point. Whether it’s sense or nonsense: I just want to get a car as good as possible for 20 years. What tips can you give me? As far as I know, the car still has a fully galvanized body. I ask of course now, because this should already start/continue now. Thank you in advance for your answers PS: This vehicle is

what does this look like with cars that have never been registered, because h-mark goes after first registration, or counts car pass then as registration ? btw what is a car pass ? got a car offered that must be at the limit of 30 years, but he only has a car pass