Category: Oldtimer Forum

I have been very proud owner of a mercedes w111 for 2 days. I bought this car cheaply, because it did not get the TÜV badge. the TÜV report reads like the menu of a 5 star restaurant, not so nice but just as long. well, everything is exchangeable, weldable but after a short car ride of about 40 km I put off the car and 10 minutes later I wanted to leave again. the starter ordered but the engine didn’t jump on. given twice full gas before the battery was completely empty, I waited for 10 minutes and started again without gas. slowly but surely the engine then ran on 4 cylinders and worked on the 6 cylinders. carefully started the car came at speed, slightly accelerated the engine started to jerk. it runs on the autobahn also loosely constant the 100 km/h but when I speed up, it jerks again. where should I usefully with the lack of search start? thanks and salutes vario

With my cream cut, the temperature indicator in the summer and at country road speed can easily go into the red area. However, there are no cooking or steam sponges from the cooler. It may be that such an old pointer instrument also lost its original adjustment. The question is, which cooling water temperatures are “normal”. I think that because the cooler can have a certain overpressure, this could also be over 100°.

Hi guys, I got a Hanomag RV from my father-in-law. It’s all in good condition, but unfortunately I’m trying to start the thing for xth time, but I don’t start. I’ve got diesel on the jets and I’ve already had the fan screw open, but he just doesn’t want to start. With the help of starter spray he does a good impression, but the last spark doesn’t want to skip. Has someone of you an idea what I’m trying to do? Thank you Gernot

I have a basic technical problem: I have 2 ignition distributors. The one runs well, the other eats capacitors. Now I have installed a new capacitor again and notice that the interrupter contacts “fire” much more strongly than the contacts in the “good” ZV. I tried five (5!) different capacitors (cross-exchanged) and at the “fire” nothing changes. At the ignition coil can not lie, I used the same for both…. What brings contacts in e in ZV to “fire” and to kill capacitors ??? Thank you LG Christoph

Hello can someone help me I have a Midget Bj 1964 which I have provided with new interior equipment also I have again technically repaired it after long service life (brakes wheel bearings steering cuffs exhaust holes in the ground closed etc.) and now I have the problem 2 weeks after Tüv that the front lights (both) no longer burn and the petrol clock does not indicate brake lights do not go and also the turn signals do not. turn on the push-in indicator shows the petrol clock again but only if I press the turn-on lever.I hope someone can help me G.D.

Hello, I bought a bug a few weeks ago relatively blue-eyed, which I liked very much, but had not really informed me in advance… With the time have looked at the now relatively many people, and told me that I made a good purchase, because it is still very good in measure… However, I was asked again and again whether all these are original parts from the time. I can unfortunately always answer nothing. Therefore here my questions: How can I h I know that there is another engine in it, and that it has 50 hp, but what exactly it is, I don’t know… The chassis is changed, it’s in the driving licence, but what exactly can’t I say. Maybe it’s a bonnet, a shock rod, and a turn signal from another model… I’d be interested in the engine most, how can I find that out? For example, most of the other classic car drivers say hello to me… is that how you do it? Is there any more of these things? What’s there for meetings? cya mtz

Hello Oldie Fans Last year I restored a Ford Taunus 20m Jg. 66. It’s great to drive with it. I want to drive it only in nice weather. Now I’m looking for an oldie for everyday life (i.e. also winter with salt etc.). What do you think it’s too tricky, and will it get rusty in a season or will it not be a problem? I don’t want to ruin this car at the same time. That would be too bad. I’ve got a Chrysler Valiant 1971 2,8lit in mind. .

Hello together, I have a new idea again, which could certainly interest many of you: I am looking for all sorts of Erlkönig photos of old- and youngtimers, because I want to put together a small collection. Today, after many years, you can see what has become of the unrecognized newcomers – there is certainly the possibility to make one or other puzzle of it I am grateful for every picture! I will soon return the collection to my he website presents. Greetings

Who has material, literature? Humberette – De Dietrich – Brennabor – Amphicar – Chennard & Walcker – Bricklin (Canada, 1974-76) – BSA – Ceirano (Italy 1898-1924) – Chalmers (USA 1908-1924) – and many other hardly known brands. Who has information / photos – always with it, wants to deliver on my homepage as comprehensive a face of the automobiles as possible! Greetings to all car fans!

servus leudde! after three years finally found time to install my b-cadet new engine. after the part is now standing without a cardan shaft on the pit, it is possible to completely renew the underfloor protection. rust is not there at all :-)), but partly the old bitumen mass of the sheet. a few years ago I sprayed it from below completely with wax. in the next days I would either use a scraper or a wire brush the loose stil Is there anything better than bitumen spray? The other day I found plastic scar in the factory. the article kept relatively good on the inside of the protective sheet of my sr500. that’s why I thought maybe to work with it..? -> please write what you have on the bottom and how you get the old cracked layers down.. thanks a lot! scr