Category: Oldtimer Forum

Good day to the round, I just bought a classic car Lada 2106 and found on the transfer ride that the indicated speed in the speedometer differs from that on the Navi/Maps or is too high. At 50 KM/h on the speedometer it is almost 10 KM/h and increases that it is at 120 on the speedometer real 105 etc. I want to exchange the tires against which with a lower cross-section, thus an additional increase of the indicated speed ggü. der re How can I achieve a really driven speed with the analog speedometer? Only the needle or the zero position will change too imprecisely, as the difference increases as said with increasing speed. Greetings, Lars

Hello, I could get an Audi 100 Coupe of 72 for relatively little money. This one has an H-certificate and also the oldtimer key number 98 in the letter. He was already registered as H. The substance of the car is good, all supporting parts are ok, chassis and technology too. However, when looking more closely at almost every body part rust bubbles, partly matt lacquer or on the chrome also show some rust. Now I ask the following question: Get ic h such a Tüv badge and thus an H-mark, despite the optical defects it has, or can I get lost and the H-mark? I would only buy the car if I did not have to complete it, rather I put it away after the approval times 2 months and set up the problem zones.

Hello, I’m currently looking for an Audi 80 (B3), and I’m also looking for other brands. The prices are often completely arbitrary and you have the feeling that some providers are on the road, who want a lot of money for their old rocked cucumber with minimal equipment and 370,000 km, just because the 30 years are in sight. Of course, nobody can say exactly which cars become interesting vintage cars, but there are certainly certain criteria, I would like to collect a few models here, because the boardies here think that it is still cheap young cars, which have the potential for an interesting vintage car.

Hallole, a question to all “from the compartment”: my 300 SEL 3.5 V8 gets damn hot, if it runs for a while in the stand. Means: 10 minutes in idle and the temperature rises to over 100 degrees. After 2-3 km ride that normalizes then again. Did someone ever have the same problem or a suggestion, where you can best start there ? Maybe rinse cooler with the garden hose, or exchange any thermostat or something ? I am grateful for all suggestions and hints ! Greeting, fk4

Hello your oldtimer friends, I would be interested in how the opinions on the most beautiful oldies differ, or agree. I start with: I have since September 2009 a Jaguar XJ Serie 1 first registration October 1969, for connoisseurs therefore one of the first XJ, and since then have driven so about 14,000 km accident-free with only 1 breakdown. I still think a dream car Many greetings Uwe

Hello, 5-10 years ago I would say was the number of vintage cars on German roads even much higher or does that just happen to me? I used to be happy when a duck or a Trabi is talking about itself. But if I don’t deceive then the number of vehicles on the roads has dropped a lot. Since certainly also the scrapping premium had a large share of it or what do you mean is the reason for this decrease? I find it very bad anyway! Greeting G of which:

Hello looking for a cheap young or old-timer I stumbled over the above-mentioned Audi series. I know from the Audi 80 B3 that at that time the fully galvanized car series was advertised. Can one conclude from this on a relative rust insensitivity? This series is still cheap to have and next year there are the first vehicles with the possibility of old-timer registration. I would promise myself of the model that it is technically very modern already. and quite simple large-series technology was installed (the often found 1.8l engine with 90 hp was probably built millions of times) I would therefore also promise a quite high useful value of the vehicle. As a second car it should not only be cared for, but also actually used. The Audi 100 looks more like a classic car to me, from this point of view the more attractive vehicle. Has the C3 also been fully galvanized? If so, from when and can one recognize that somehow? In the 100s are often Finding the 5-cylinders. On the one hand, I often read about a legendary durability, while others write about thermal problems. How does that look now? Maybe there are participants here who are well versed in these Audi series. Thank you!

Hi. For my old-timer insurance company, I need a short report for the value & condition determination. This is necessary for the receipt of the vehicle insurance (“kasko”. What did you pay for such a short report? Which provider would you choose? (I can present the three above institutions to Zurich) What value should be reasonably agreed with the insurer? Restitution value, market value or reconstruction value? (Insurance should be given to an exactly thirty-year-old G olf GTI with a value of currently about 6000 €) Greeting from the Saar. Klexi

Hello Forum, Let’s say I would buy a Top Mercedes W123 (200D or 240D) with less than 50000 km and out of retirement property. Such a car is now about 25 years old and I am 29 years old myself. I find exactly this car the hammer and would like to become with such an old – i.e. it would have to join another 30 years – on H-marks of course. And if there is no diesel anymore I continue with PÖL (then I have a farm with a couple of fields). Now the question: K or is that just dreaming and completely unrealistic? But the car would be used in a garage as an everyday car. It would see and feel rain (but not snow and ice) and basically only experience long distances (20000 km per year). Can it be conserved so that you don’t have to fight against the rust all the time and have to do huge welding work at every TÜV? Is it enough to keep up with all the time? it floods with Mike Sanders or has to do everything so that the car can be galvanized. Looking forward to your answers Maybe someone can report about a “project” that has been on the road for a few years (doesn’t necessarily have to be a W123).

Good evening dear car friend! I know that there are some threads on the subject, however, I find that there are for everyone his own interests regarding a car purchase! That’s why I wanted to ask you questions if you could help me? So I’m interested in buying an Alfa Romeo Spider 2000, but I’m only close to the driver’s license and I don’t have a lot of fluid. I already have the following car in my sights:Alfa Now I wanted to ask you the following questions: 1. How can I see the rust? i such a “garage car”? 1.1 How do I feel about the reliability (e.g. engine, gearbox,…) 2. How much would I have to invest to re-pile the body? 3. What kind of taxes and additional costs (e.g. insurance as a beginner,…) would I have to calculate 4. And actually the most important question I can afford to have such an “oldie” for a long time and will I ever get it suitable for driving? I may still have questions to ask later but I would be VERY DANKBAR if YOU M i could help. Greeting Xx_flatbad_xX