Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello oldie friends and knowers of the vehicle electrics, as you can guess from my signature, recently an older Italian diva ran to me, a Giulietta Sprint from the noble sex of the Alfa Romeo. So far so good. Unfortunately I had to find out today that obviously the battery is not charged. The insidious (for non-bayers: the perfide) thing is that the control light for the charging current lights up quite normally when the ignition is switched on and at the Sta The engine runs out (well, it still glimmers in the idle, but as soon as you press something on the right pedal, the Lamp goes off). That’s why I didn’t notice it until I wanted to start again after a tank stop. I’m rather blessed with two left hands and ten thumbs and from everything where current flows through I leave my fingers anyway. Please don’t fall like the vultures about me, if I write nonsense now. My guess is that the Alternator supplies power, which then also arrives at the control light, but does not find up to the battery (sounds logical for me, but can also be nonsense…). Did I understand that so far correctly? If I am right, what could be the reason that the battery is not charged? Otherwise, everything really works, I suppose that the battery is integrated into the “normal current circuit”. Can I use alternator and controller as a Fe if the control light works normally? Or do the two manage to outwit the light (isn’t it the brightest thing )? Would be nice if someone could free me from my ignorance! Thank you and many greetings, Cephalotus

Moin, I have been interested in the series E28, i.e. BMW 5 of ́81- ́87 and especially for the 525 eta. I am thinking of getting a copy as a everyday car, because I find the design of this series simply very successful and striking and the cars are also a bit rust-resistant than the W123, which I still worship as well. I just don’t have a garage and no space and no money to buy a winter car and the beloved youngtimer only i It has to be rust-resistant and also reliable and reasonably economical, driving about 25000 km a year. I had just thought about the eta. Can you drive the normal gasoline? Where is the consumption in normal driving mode with a lot of federal road share? How does it look with spare parts? Can you convert the factory cat to Euro 2? How long do these engines last on average? At autoscout there is one in it for 1800 €, with 194000 on the clock, on the other hand s Hannover (I didn’t get the link), I would be interested in him. Maybe someone knows this guy well? At e12e28.de there is already a lot, but that’s not quite enough for me. Thanks for information. Greeting from the turbine

Hello you love! My name is Heiko Waldmüller and I’ve been playing a Volvo Amazon as a first car for a good week. The problem is following… I don’t know about classic cars at all, I’m kind of a cross-country entrant. More precisely, it’s about this one here: http://suchen.mobile.de/…/showDetails.html?… Now my problem is… I don’t know if something like this is suitable for everyday use. Many people I’ve already talked to advise me about it. because you can’t drive it in winter, can’t leave it outside, it’s not safe or it’s vulnerable to damage. I wanted to ask you what you think about it, because most of the people I’ve asked have more life experience than me, but they’re not really experts, let alone that they have an old car themselves… Even if it probably sounds bad for a classic car lover, but I’m not interested in car care, like My left eyeball, but to use it just like a normal car. What do you think? I would be very happy about answers!

Hello, I’m new here and would like to send many greetings to everyone from the forum area. I have a ’73 bug at home and am about to restore it, but that’s not my real concern. My question is whether you could give me tips or help. I’d like to start a car mechatronics training.I’ve already been to xPraktikumstellen, be it in a free workshop or at a dealer.I can’t think of anything more beautiful than screwing cars. Doc h unfortunately you can hardly “screw” in today’s workshops, mostly you have to carry out inspections, connect the diagnostic device and exchange parts, but this becomes very boring after a certain time, because you have to do almost nothing on the engine etc. but always the same problems occur again and again. That’s why I thought that I would do my training in an oldtimer workshop.The thing is that I find 1.no and 2. don’t know exactly if you later when you have learned the future. I know that you get everything you need for electronics in the vocational school and in courses, but is that enough? Does everyone have experience with it? Thank you for an answer! MfG: Bug

Good evening together! My W107 US makes me feel a little bit sick. I had a drop of dark oil under the car 4 weeks ago from time to time. I assume that it is motor oil. I then took a can of brake cleaner, a rag and a lot of patience and made the whole engine fat-free from below. I then drove a round about 40km and turned it off. He was standing now about 3 weeks due to the bad weather. Today I look under and then I had a f Leck in the dimension of incredible 30cm under the car. I was really scared. I lifted it up on the stage and looked at it. Can it unfortunately explain badly, hanging on the housing of a bell connection gear engine droplets. See picture, have drawn it in. Who can tell me what it could be? Do I have to worry about it? I live in the circle Soest, is here a real expert who could repair this to me? Lifting platform, beer and grill is of course Would I be happy if someone can help me. In the workshop, no one can help, old cars don’t know them anymore! Or is it possible that the brake cleaner has run out in large quantities and brought the paint with it? Have put a new cardboard under it now!

My youngtimer with season marks is standing in a barn in winter. Although it is quite dry, I used to have light mold formation inside. At some point I have provided the interior with large amounts of dehumidifiers and since then no mold was seen. I have used two different products and now I wonder which is the better one. One is Silica Orange, which is orange in dry condition and becomes white when saturated. The other s ind these room dehumidifiers, as you can buy them in the hardware store, so a bag with drying powder, which is placed on a pick-up dish. Now it is the case that the two bags from the hardware store have done all the work. Both containers were full of water, a total of certainly 4 to 5 liters. The silica gel has turned white, so was also saturated. Somehow, however, I cannot imagine that this silica gel is able to bind so much water permanently. Does anyone know how much water silica gel can absorb (in relation to its weight or volume)? Is it possible that the dehumidifier bags with a bowl are much more effective (and only have the disadvantage that they are not regenerable)?

Hello dear oldtimer community, although my vehicle is not yet, but I think my question is still best taken care of here! Actually the headline says everything. I plan to preserve all cavities with Mike Sanders fat next spring with my W210. Unfortunately I don’t know at the moment how strong the cavities are on or rusted. That’s why I came up with the idea to say that I only spray everything nicely with Fluid Film Liquid A, because this product is thanks to its wese I would then push the Mike Sanders layer on it. Do you think that makes sense? The two products should definitely contract! Have already read that some of them mix together and then spray them first. And a further spun thought of me was: Fluid Film, on it Perma Film and on it Mike Sanders. Does that make (even less) sense? As a hint: I h abe at the moment unfortunately no possibility to examine the cavities by endoscope and moreover the financial possibilities would be too limited to exchange everything in case of very strong rust infestation. The measures I plan are only for damage limitation. Thus the additional fluid film layer would only be prophylaxis! For helpful answers already a big thank you! MfG Gainestown

Hello to each other! I am looking for a solution for a sloppy sprinter, but the oldtimer community knows this problem best: 3 months ago I removed the rust from my Sprinter and welded a sheet metal on the bike. After that everything was nicely smooth, degreased, spatted, primed and painted. The success was remarkable, that looked really good. Just now I washed the car and what do I see about this bike run: an about 1 cent large bubble with crack ! When you press on it comes out brown soup … I have worked really pimply exactly, why is there now water between spatula and sheet metal???? Did I forget something? Would have heard on the bare sheet metal before spatling something on it??? If you restored a vintage car, should it last a little longer, how do you do that??? Before already thank you!! Berti

Hello to the round, I’m just looking for a well-kept 116er between 1975 and 1979. Does anyone have experiences about the model here and can give me some basic tips? I mean less the maintenance and fuel costs, but rather something in the direction of “possible increase in value of certain models and colors / interior equipment”. So far I consider the 280er than 280SE the most reasonable solution. The engine with the later overhauled injection system and then 177 HP. Thanks for Your tips! Greetings, Filou

Good evening Oldtimer friends, on Saturday I stumbled on the roof floor in a dark corner over an axle. (see photos). my first (not unfounded) conjecture was DKW or Goggo. but that doesn’t seem to be true. Renault is also a hot candidate. the letters and numbers on the part don’t bring me any further. someone knows which vehicle the axle belongs to. I don’t bring a NOS part that probably dates back to the 50s/60s. simply knock into the ton.