Category: Oldtimer Forum

Two years ago I bought a 106 Xsi from 1995 as a cheap first car and had to invest almost 800 francs directly for the MFK because of welding work in the wheel box VR, the seller had said that the left one was already made and the right one is good, which was unfortunately not correct. I was directly intimidated by further rust. Now I did not drive a meter last winter when salt was on the road, and had still had a relatively large amount of flight rust under the The car was removed from me as well as I could, then covered with hammerite and some color, 100% was not possible because of the conditions. Lots of rust was in places with cavities, but I could not look at the inside of course, but only outside. I also used some cavity protection at the end. Now to the questions: How much fear should I have of the salt? Basically I can also do without the car in winter, and the second car of my father fa (Unfortunately only about 100km of e-range in winter), but of course I prefer to drive my small car. I will go to the mountains for that, I am still thinking about whether I really want to do this to my car, or whether I should go by train. How long does salt really stay on the road? Does it have to rain properly, or is it enough if it is dry again for a few days? In Zurich the snow rarely stays longer than a few days. Which is also provisional, if it is zb at night under 0 degrees, which is often the case. How bad is salt when it is dry? Basically, it simply makes me wonder how you deal with this topic. I have already seen that there are some posts about it, but there are usually 20 pages written and very quickly people get caught in other topics, which have nothing to do with the question. Therefore thank you for your opinions Tim many thanks for the information.

Hello, I am currently restoring a very rare moped car, an Allcars Charly from Italy. The Mechanic components are now working, now it should go to the electrics… Information or even spare parts are unfortunately hardly to be found for this rare vehicle. There is no schematic! The part of which I think it was the controller / rectifier is not much left. A manufacturer or similar can not be recognized either. For this reason I wanted a uni I have no idea what to look for. Correct dimensioning(amps)? Regulator or rectifier? or both? Then in a component or separate? How to connect, cable? etc… Built is a 50ccm 2stroke moped motor from motori morini with out-of-print ignition coil and flylight magnetic ignition According to the operating instructions, the motor delivers 75w, according to other Charly owners at 6v!!! The board system in general, however, runs completely with 12v!! A battery is provided in the vehicle! (How should that be enough for light, horn, windscreen wiper etc.?!) Do you have an idea which controller / rectifier I need there? Or both? If you still need information please let us know. Thanks already in advance! I look forward to your contributions.

Hello together. my Renault R8 always had some problems with the warning flasher, which only blinked on one side, the normal turn signal left / right against it worked perfectly. Now I cleaned up the very connected switch with 7 contacts for the warning flasher a little bit on the contacts (cable shoe off – brass brush) again. The warning flasher now works again 1a on all 4 turn signals and also sneezing bright. However, the normal turn signal now does not work at all Does someone have an idea where I should first search / measure? Although I have a repair book from the time with schematics, unfortunately there is nowhere noted where relays and fuses are installed :S Greetings Sebastian

Hello dear ones, I’m looking for something to find the cause for my Peugot J5 2.5l TD. 95hp I hope you have some good advice. So this is just the IST condition: – Motor rumbles when starting when no gas has been added and smokes blue – if you have more gas, the blue smoke also burns down – he lost oil on a leaky hose before and then when I wanted to check on tires little oil and much less cooling water in it – We rkstatt then (car was leaning when measuring) dropped 1l of oil too much (I drove once through the city then measured again and removed the liter) – otherwise he drives relatively normal, with longer driving time I have the feeling that he loses some power what happened so far: check I already: – air filter – valve play – control times – charging air cooler – cooling water chain should also be tight I will next remove the air hose from the turbo and look if there is oil in there. Otherwise I would be extremely grateful what I can check next. Injection nozzles (pump still looks very new) valve seals? Looking forward to a few advices Best regards Nadine

I have a DGV 5A weaver carburetor, which is supposed to be intended for the Ford OHC engine. However, all relevant connections and adjustment screws (stand gas, mixture, chokebars, petrol line, etc.) on the inside of the valve cover are there, so that you get extremely bad and burn your fingers if you still make settings on the warm running engine. Therefore I wanted to turn the carburetor. But since there was no hit in the net, place Maybe someone who wants to do something similar will help. The fittings of the DGV are symmetrical. Therefore, you can put the carburettor on the base in both directions. If you “wrongly around” the carburettor, you need a new holder for the gas drawer on the other side. On this side there are no threads for attaching such a construction. However, the screws on the carburettor base are quite long, so that you still have there I don’t win a beauty prize with it. 🙂 But the part does what it is supposed to do. That’s enough for me for the time being. I didn’t want to “make everything nice” tonight. A short 5km test drive around the block showed no change in mixture or driving behaviour.

Good evening, here in the round I am new. My vehicle Warszawa from 1954, Plus is attached to mass. My question: How do I connect a warning flasher. NESAN NS 602. The switch of the turn signal has 3 cables, green, white and black. Now from the warning flasher VL to green, VR to black and 49a to white is connected. Warning flasher only works with ignition electric on the car is not my “special area”. That’s why I need help here so that the visit to the upcoming TÜV becomes successful. ?? Many Thanks and a nice evening. Rainer.

I have reactivated a Knudsen Taunus, who stood in a garage for 20 years. The Taunus is in itself well there, also has a fresh H approval. Unfortunately, I have the problem that after a few kilometers drive, the front wheel brake no longer opens. As part of the reconstruction I have revised 1. the old brake calipers with reperture sets 2. all rubber lines replaced 3. Brake power amplifier and main brake cylinder as well as discs and brake pads. But that doesn’t seem to be the case. Since everything is new now, I honestly lack an idea where the problem might lie? If you start with a cold engine, the Taunus will brake wonderfully. Just as it should. After a 10 km drive, the brake won’t open properly. Does anyone have an idea what this might be about?

Since I ask you “dumb” questions here in the forum and hope for help/feedback, I would also like to share my experiences, which may help other users further… In the engine compartment of my Seven a Sierra OHC engine with carburetor is rolled out. “By the book” you set the ignition on such an engine based on the notches on the crankshaft. However, here I have a problem: – there are only three more notches next to the TDC-Kerbe, so that I use the notches n – The cooler and fan is so close to the engine that with a little effort the pen and notches can still light up with the ignition gun. However, it is impossible to get to the belt disc in order to attach further notches or even edding markings there. To do this, the motor has to get out. I can set the usual 10 degrees before OT at static ignition with the setup, but for example the test of the OT-Wink It’s possible to forget about the current gas with a connected low-pressure socket and/or the centrifugal force adjustment with increasing speed. For this reason I came up with the idea to read the OT angle on the camshaft wheel instead of the crankshaft. I get there playing in my engine compartment. However, there is one disadvantage here: the camshaft (at least the Ford OHC) only rotates half the speed of the crankshaft… So I have to have the OT angle scale on the camshaft wheel 2x and because of the half-speed, 2 degrees of displacement on the crankshaft mean only one degree of displacement on the camshaft. The scale is therefore only half as large/precise as the measurement on the crankshaft. But if you get there bad or not at all, that is at least better than nothing. Solution: I printed a scale with Powerpoint. There you can pull a line and then turn it around a defined degree number. On the head cover have ic h mounted an aluminium strip with a tip and then turned the motor 2x PRECISE to the OT point of the crankshaft. At these two zero points I then glued 2x a scale on the camshaft, each offset by the above-mentioned 180 degrees. See pictures. I then only have to turn the crankshaft once exactly to the OT/TDC point for each measurement to make sure that the pin has not bent. After that, the measurement can be done with the ignition gun on the scale of the camshaft vo I hope this might help the one or the other who has a problem similar to that of me…

Hello together. My name is Thomas, am bj 83 and I come from the district of Augsburg. I have got in my mind to buy a vintage car again, because I made the mistake a few years ago to sell my oldi at that time, and I bite myself again and again in the very best. I want to make one, with which one can also for trips with wife and a child 7 years old, with which one can make. Currently I have shot myself on a Ford Model A. From the body shape would me a roadster or convertible What I found out, the front have a continuous bench. would you have three seats there? I know there is the mother-in-law seat. I think, however, if Mrs. odrr was in there, it wouldn’t be really safe and comfortable to drive. Or is it a Tudor or fordor Sedan the better choice after all?

Hello all, have here an Alfa 33, which has a bit of coolant loss (about 250ml on 500km). I have the car now after almost 16 years standing very carefully over 500 km again “began in” The car had a problem because the radiator fan was wrongly wired and pulled only warm air out of the engine compartment. So it can quite be that the right cylinder group has become very hot times, because it did not get fresh air. CO2 test bought and see it turns green, which suggests CO2 in the cooling circuit. It is not an emulsion in the oil, the oil cover is clean and there are no white clouds coming out of the exhaust, so I would almost exclude the ZKD. Can the CO2 come into the cooling circuit by other means? How reliable are such tests?