Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello dear oldtimer community, although my vehicle is not yet, but I think my question is still best taken care of here! Actually the headline says everything. I plan to preserve all cavities with Mike Sanders fat next spring with my W210. Unfortunately I don’t know at the moment how strong the cavities are on or rusted. That’s why I came up with the idea to say that I only spray everything nicely with Fluid Film Liquid A, because this product is thanks to its wese I would then push the Mike Sanders layer on it. Do you think that makes sense? The two products should definitely contract! Have already read that some of them mix together and then spray them first. And a further spun thought of me was: Fluid Film, on it Perma Film and on it Mike Sanders. Does that make (even less) sense? As a hint: I h abe at the moment unfortunately no possibility to examine the cavities by endoscope and moreover the financial possibilities would be too limited to exchange everything in case of very strong rust infestation. The measures I plan are only for damage limitation. Thus the additional fluid film layer would only be prophylaxis! For helpful answers already a big thank you! MfG Gainestown

Hello to each other! I am looking for a solution for a sloppy sprinter, but the oldtimer community knows this problem best: 3 months ago I removed the rust from my Sprinter and welded a sheet metal on the bike. After that everything was nicely smooth, degreased, spatted, primed and painted. The success was remarkable, that looked really good. Just now I washed the car and what do I see about this bike run: an about 1 cent large bubble with crack ! When you press on it comes out brown soup … I have worked really pimply exactly, why is there now water between spatula and sheet metal???? Did I forget something? Would have heard on the bare sheet metal before spatling something on it??? If you restored a vintage car, should it last a little longer, how do you do that??? Before already thank you!! Berti

Hello to the round, I’m just looking for a well-kept 116er between 1975 and 1979. Does anyone have experiences about the model here and can give me some basic tips? I mean less the maintenance and fuel costs, but rather something in the direction of “possible increase in value of certain models and colors / interior equipment”. So far I consider the 280er than 280SE the most reasonable solution. The engine with the later overhauled injection system and then 177 HP. Thanks for Your tips! Greetings, Filou

Good evening Oldtimer friends, on Saturday I stumbled on the roof floor in a dark corner over an axle. (see photos). my first (not unfounded) conjecture was DKW or Goggo. but that doesn’t seem to be true. Renault is also a hot candidate. the letters and numbers on the part don’t bring me any further. someone knows which vehicle the axle belongs to. I don’t bring a NOS part that probably dates back to the 50s/60s. simply knock into the ton.

Two years ago I bought a 106 Xsi from 1995 as a cheap first car and had to invest almost 800 francs directly for the MFK because of welding work in the wheel box VR, the seller had said that the left one was already made and the right one is good, which was unfortunately not correct. I was directly intimidated by further rust. Now I did not drive a meter last winter when salt was on the road, and had still had a relatively large amount of flight rust under the The car was removed from me as well as I could, then covered with hammerite and some color, 100% was not possible because of the conditions. Lots of rust was in places with cavities, but I could not look at the inside of course, but only outside. I also used some cavity protection at the end. Now to the questions: How much fear should I have of the salt? Basically I can also do without the car in winter, and the second car of my father fa (Unfortunately only about 100km of e-range in winter), but of course I prefer to drive my small car. I will go to the mountains for that, I am still thinking about whether I really want to do this to my car, or whether I should go by train. How long does salt really stay on the road? Does it have to rain properly, or is it enough if it is dry again for a few days? In Zurich the snow rarely stays longer than a few days. Which is also provisional, if it is zb at night under 0 degrees, which is often the case. How bad is salt when it is dry? Basically, it simply makes me wonder how you deal with this topic. I have already seen that there are some posts about it, but there are usually 20 pages written and very quickly people get caught in other topics, which have nothing to do with the question. Therefore thank you for your opinions Tim many thanks for the information.

Hello, I am currently restoring a very rare moped car, an Allcars Charly from Italy. The Mechanic components are now working, now it should go to the electrics… Information or even spare parts are unfortunately hardly to be found for this rare vehicle. There is no schematic! The part of which I think it was the controller / rectifier is not much left. A manufacturer or similar can not be recognized either. For this reason I wanted a uni I have no idea what to look for. Correct dimensioning(amps)? Regulator or rectifier? or both? Then in a component or separate? How to connect, cable? etc… Built is a 50ccm 2stroke moped motor from motori morini with out-of-print ignition coil and flylight magnetic ignition According to the operating instructions, the motor delivers 75w, according to other Charly owners at 6v!!! The board system in general, however, runs completely with 12v!! A battery is provided in the vehicle! (How should that be enough for light, horn, windscreen wiper etc.?!) Do you have an idea which controller / rectifier I need there? Or both? If you still need information please let us know. Thanks already in advance! I look forward to your contributions.

Hello together. my Renault R8 always had some problems with the warning flasher, which only blinked on one side, the normal turn signal left / right against it worked perfectly. Now I cleaned up the very connected switch with 7 contacts for the warning flasher a little bit on the contacts (cable shoe off – brass brush) again. The warning flasher now works again 1a on all 4 turn signals and also sneezing bright. However, the normal turn signal now does not work at all Does someone have an idea where I should first search / measure? Although I have a repair book from the time with schematics, unfortunately there is nowhere noted where relays and fuses are installed :S Greetings Sebastian

Hello dear ones, I’m looking for something to find the cause for my Peugot J5 2.5l TD. 95hp I hope you have some good advice. So this is just the IST condition: – Motor rumbles when starting when no gas has been added and smokes blue – if you have more gas, the blue smoke also burns down – he lost oil on a leaky hose before and then when I wanted to check on tires little oil and much less cooling water in it – We rkstatt then (car was leaning when measuring) dropped 1l of oil too much (I drove once through the city then measured again and removed the liter) – otherwise he drives relatively normal, with longer driving time I have the feeling that he loses some power what happened so far: check I already: – air filter – valve play – control times – charging air cooler – cooling water chain should also be tight I will next remove the air hose from the turbo and look if there is oil in there. Otherwise I would be extremely grateful what I can check next. Injection nozzles (pump still looks very new) valve seals? Looking forward to a few advices Best regards Nadine

I have a DGV 5A weaver carburetor, which is supposed to be intended for the Ford OHC engine. However, all relevant connections and adjustment screws (stand gas, mixture, chokebars, petrol line, etc.) on the inside of the valve cover are there, so that you get extremely bad and burn your fingers if you still make settings on the warm running engine. Therefore I wanted to turn the carburetor. But since there was no hit in the net, place Maybe someone who wants to do something similar will help. The fittings of the DGV are symmetrical. Therefore, you can put the carburettor on the base in both directions. If you “wrongly around” the carburettor, you need a new holder for the gas drawer on the other side. On this side there are no threads for attaching such a construction. However, the screws on the carburettor base are quite long, so that you still have there I don’t win a beauty prize with it. 🙂 But the part does what it is supposed to do. That’s enough for me for the time being. I didn’t want to “make everything nice” tonight. A short 5km test drive around the block showed no change in mixture or driving behaviour.

Good evening, here in the round I am new. My vehicle Warszawa from 1954, Plus is attached to mass. My question: How do I connect a warning flasher. NESAN NS 602. The switch of the turn signal has 3 cables, green, white and black. Now from the warning flasher VL to green, VR to black and 49a to white is connected. Warning flasher only works with ignition electric on the car is not my “special area”. That’s why I need help here so that the visit to the upcoming TÜV becomes successful. ?? Many Thanks and a nice evening. Rainer.