Category: Oldtimer Forum

I have reactivated a Knudsen Taunus, who stood in a garage for 20 years. The Taunus is in itself well there, also has a fresh H approval. Unfortunately, I have the problem that after a few kilometers drive, the front wheel brake no longer opens. As part of the reconstruction I have revised 1. the old brake calipers with reperture sets 2. all rubber lines replaced 3. Brake power amplifier and main brake cylinder as well as discs and brake pads. But that doesn’t seem to be the case. Since everything is new now, I honestly lack an idea where the problem might lie? If you start with a cold engine, the Taunus will brake wonderfully. Just as it should. After a 10 km drive, the brake won’t open properly. Does anyone have an idea what this might be about?

Since I ask you “dumb” questions here in the forum and hope for help/feedback, I would also like to share my experiences, which may help other users further… In the engine compartment of my Seven a Sierra OHC engine with carburetor is rolled out. “By the book” you set the ignition on such an engine based on the notches on the crankshaft. However, here I have a problem: – there are only three more notches next to the TDC-Kerbe, so that I use the notches n – The cooler and fan is so close to the engine that with a little effort the pen and notches can still light up with the ignition gun. However, it is impossible to get to the belt disc in order to attach further notches or even edding markings there. To do this, the motor has to get out. I can set the usual 10 degrees before OT at static ignition with the setup, but for example the test of the OT-Wink It’s possible to forget about the current gas with a connected low-pressure socket and/or the centrifugal force adjustment with increasing speed. For this reason I came up with the idea to read the OT angle on the camshaft wheel instead of the crankshaft. I get there playing in my engine compartment. However, there is one disadvantage here: the camshaft (at least the Ford OHC) only rotates half the speed of the crankshaft… So I have to have the OT angle scale on the camshaft wheel 2x and because of the half-speed, 2 degrees of displacement on the crankshaft mean only one degree of displacement on the camshaft. The scale is therefore only half as large/precise as the measurement on the crankshaft. But if you get there bad or not at all, that is at least better than nothing. Solution: I printed a scale with Powerpoint. There you can pull a line and then turn it around a defined degree number. On the head cover have ic h mounted an aluminium strip with a tip and then turned the motor 2x PRECISE to the OT point of the crankshaft. At these two zero points I then glued 2x a scale on the camshaft, each offset by the above-mentioned 180 degrees. See pictures. I then only have to turn the crankshaft once exactly to the OT/TDC point for each measurement to make sure that the pin has not bent. After that, the measurement can be done with the ignition gun on the scale of the camshaft vo I hope this might help the one or the other who has a problem similar to that of me…

Hello together. My name is Thomas, am bj 83 and I come from the district of Augsburg. I have got in my mind to buy a vintage car again, because I made the mistake a few years ago to sell my oldi at that time, and I bite myself again and again in the very best. I want to make one, with which one can also for trips with wife and a child 7 years old, with which one can make. Currently I have shot myself on a Ford Model A. From the body shape would me a roadster or convertible What I found out, the front have a continuous bench. would you have three seats there? I know there is the mother-in-law seat. I think, however, if Mrs. odrr was in there, it wouldn’t be really safe and comfortable to drive. Or is it a Tudor or fordor Sedan the better choice after all?

Hello all, have here an Alfa 33, which has a bit of coolant loss (about 250ml on 500km). I have the car now after almost 16 years standing very carefully over 500 km again “began in” The car had a problem because the radiator fan was wrongly wired and pulled only warm air out of the engine compartment. So it can quite be that the right cylinder group has become very hot times, because it did not get fresh air. CO2 test bought and see it turns green, which suggests CO2 in the cooling circuit. It is not an emulsion in the oil, the oil cover is clean and there are no white clouds coming out of the exhaust, so I would almost exclude the ZKD. Can the CO2 come into the cooling circuit by other means? How reliable are such tests?

Hello, I was recently stolen my Porsche911 year 1974. Fortunately, it was found 10 days later by the police. The Targa roof is missing, because they got into the car and the clock is missing. Otherwise everything is OK, the ignition lock is not damaged, which of course the insurance now wonders. I am not an expert, therefore I ask here, if anyone knows the problem, that you can drive with the car also without the ignition lock is broken? The car is finally old and I also have an original key that is so worn out that I can pull the key out while driving without the car running out. 🙂

Hey, I bought an English taxi from 1989 a while ago on the scrap site for 550 €…since then I didn’t get to do a lot of work aba wants to start slowly with it…the problem is that it’s rusted out in a dozen places…e.g. two places on the roof, wings etc…the next problem is that I can’t spend enough money to make sandblasting oda how much does that cost?? the important thing is that the rust is supposed to keep all the way away because also a biscdhen and no transition At the moment I’m about to disassemble it and so. With sandblasting, the so nohc would have to do additional work. the second problem is the frame that is fortunately still stable and also nowhere rusted is aba would have to rust out the also…is that enough to paint the or do you have to paint the powder coatings or something like that? the problem with the taxi is also that I can not buy spare parts because it looks pretty thin…why nice if someone nn p aar tips could give…have in other forens already some of the acids that cover this and so heard but that’s bad if I have to weld in there nohc plates and so…I would also try the sandblasting compressor myself and so have ihc but how expensive is the beam good if you have to rust out a whole car?? mfg (PS.: small foretaste there is attached as this looks, and that’s still a harmless spot, with the kotflügel oda afford etc. also often lacks a piece )

Hello ! Just find me a Manta A or Kadett C. If I miss the (original) n H-mark…. may I then lay it deeper and make wide-ripe up ???? so the things would pick up all, in order to be able to restore the original condition….but one can convert a car with H-marks at all like that ??? I mean, this will probably not interest jmd, if I drive around with it 1000 km a year only on Sundays…. but theoretically that would be illegal after all…or ? ??

Hello, I don’t know if I’m right here, but I think and hope that maybe someone can help me here. I might want to get a Porsche Spyder replica in the near future. I’ve heard that these should cost approx. 20000 euros in the USA and you can get it with up to 350 hp. Does one know better? Are they then already assembled or do you have to do it yourself? Do you also get them in Germany for a reasonable price? r questions. I would be very grateful if someone could help me. In advance thank you, Aimes

Hello I have a question: Is there an insurance with which I (22 years old) can allow an old car with H-mark? Would you like to buy me an oldie next year, but e.g. with the Zürich insurance the policyholder must be at least 25 years old to register a old car. If that is always so, of course that would not be good, I have to wait 2.5 years :-(. Thanks in advance for the info Greeting Steffen

Hello I no longer have access to the oil spill bar at my Mustang 1968 after a conversion on the engine, because I can no longer pull it out due to construction, I have installed an oil spill bar encoder here for measuring the oil temperature. I could now install a rod tube to the oil tank at another more accessible place. I will do this too. But what I would really like would be an electric indicator of the oil level in the stand. My old Renault Laguna had such an anz eige . For 10 years it has always informed me very precisely by means of a small scale which was always absolutely identical with what the track rod has indicated . Is there something like that for retrofitting ? Greetings Tom