Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello professional world, I am looking for a schematic for a contact-controlled transistor ignition system (6V). I know there is such a part of Ignitor but I am 1. stingy and 2. a hobbyist and would like to build such a part myself. 12V construction plans I already have. Thank you in advance Christian

Hello, I’m still looking for a rider for my team to join the S.A.C European Rally from Munich to Lisbon. This is an 8-day adventure rally for everyone from Munich to Lisbon.http://european.superlative-adventure.com/ I’m planning to join with my Mercedes Kombi BJ 1983. I’ve already been able to gain experience at the Black Sea Circle 2013. If you’re interested, please contact me with a short profile 🙂

Hello all, my ́78 Silver Shadow has a motor-technically unhealthy characteristic: It turns far too long and high in idle after cold start. It hurts! It is the 6.75l V8 machine with two SU HD8 carburettors. Previous start operations took place like this: Before the first start gas pedal once briefly push through completely (so I was told that the electronic shock was activated). He then spews immediately, but the speeds stop at approx. 3000u/min. Only after a good 15min fal It depends on whether you drive or stop. Even if I switch off the engine after 5 min and start without gas, it turns so high, so it doesn’t stay stuck as initially suspected. In a warm state (after just this 15 min hot running phase), it starts immediately at the correct idle speed. Even if you leave it warm after it was a few hours, the speed stays normal when starting. I haven’t tried cold without gas yet. Does anyone know if this can be adjusted or what defect can be present? Greetings Marco

Hello everyone, car making was not a hobby so far, but I just liked the aesthetics of old cars and I’m also willing to put work into it (if “oldtimer” is a hobby that fills the entire leisure time, then that would be too much for me). Since I might be driving to work with the car (still I didn’t have a car), I thought if I didn’t, IF I already need a car, not to get a vintage car. 1. Can you get a vintage car al The loss of value would of course be higher… Whether it is not worth the same to use a 500 Euro scrap car as a first car and drive over the pile, and to spare the old car better!? So to speak as a hobby incl. investment? 2. What are good and cheap models for an beginner? I don’t like a lot of work and money? I don’t like beetles, I don’t look aggressive enough. Opel Kadett seems to be often called, I find a Also quite nice, are other old/youngtimers interesting for me? How am I not being teased as a layman and what should I pay attention to besides the mileage indicator? Thank you for all the answers! Jens

Hello, how do you see the future of the old cars with internal combustion engines when the electric cars come in large quantities? That’s still unthinkable, of course, but in 15-30 years? I’m doing a parallel to the cameras: – There was the time when the first digital cameras had even worse image quality at a high price (range/price of the e-cars) and only the small user group was enthusiastic about it. – The digital cameras were constantly improved The price became affordable and the film cameras (combustion engines) were completely out of the market within a few years. The films (Sprit) are still available to buy, but at relatively high prices and in smaller selections. The used film cameras have lost almost everything in value, because the handling/cost/result compared to the digital cameras is significantly worse and hardly anyone uses them. – Ergebni s: today only very few people are still interested in analogue photography, the normal used cameras have almost no value anymore (apart from very few rarities). Today, a classic car with internal combustion engine is generally similar to a new car, which also makes it attractive to have and use a vintage car. If the electric cars come with the appropriate infrastructure and the users realize the advantages, the inventory of the combustion system will The fuel prices will rise, the number of petrol stations will decrease. Then the usability of the old cars will be limited and only very few people will want such a vintage car. The environmental zone tightening should contribute to it. Then the normal old cars (no real rarities) will drastically lose value. How do you see this? Greetings, Nipo

Hello municipality, first hello together. A (almost) Nachbahr has a nice oldtimer, which he gives to guide wedding rides. Now there is always the question of rust protection in the room. The car stands in a garage next to a normal vehicle, that is driven also in wind and weather (of course always nice moisture in the garage) Now it is always recommended to build a carport. I confirm my personal experiences. I have in a very airy In the cabin, the temperature and humidity are like outside (almost identical, as it really runs very well). Back to the carport. But how can it be that it doesn’t start to rust? I have outside partly after a rain 100% humidity. And now in the fall between 85 and 70% actually continuous. If you read so on the internet, it is always talk of 50% again as a limit. So from 50% -> rust. How can that be that in the hut or in the carport nothing rusts? (air humidity and temperature as outside) Would I be happy if someone answered.

After many years I think about making my dream car myself. Can you call me a few manufacturers of kits with which you have had experience, or which you can recommend?

Hello together! I would like to buy a Mercedes-Benz W123 Coupe, preferably a 230 CE or 280 CE. In addition to a technically usable condition, a mileage of not more than 200,000 km as well as an intact body without large rusting points are important to me. The saddle grade should not be worse than 3. Has someone experience with such a vehicle and can give me tips on what to pay special attention to (weaknesses) and what a realistic price for r can be a 30-year-old vehicle? Thank you in advance for your feedback!

Hello, I would like to install a secondary flow oil filter in my oldi. Of course not to extend the oil exchange intervals, but because the vehicle does not have a reasonable oil filter in the main current (only has a wire split filter). Now there are different suppliers of such a thing, mostly small unknown companies, but also the filter giant MANN offers fine filter elements for the secondary current. Is there actually great difference in effectiveness? I am sure that I will still get filter elements in 20 years’ time, maybe there are no other small suppliers anymore. Best regards, Bernhard

My question also refers to less historic vehicles – but they rust like a Frenchman from the 70s… On the pictures you can see how it rusts out of the fold. This fold represents the overlap with which parts of a wheelhouse are dotted together. Probably also in some places not only 2, but several sheets are frowned together. And then especially thick and auc h perfects various layers of carross and anti-drying compounds. Serially. Now the question is what to do in order to maintain the cart in the long term. Do I first tear away the whole batch with a rotating wire brush, brush and then grind as well as it goes away the rust ? Then still rust remains between the sheets in the fold. If I treat them with wax or grease (Mc Sanders or something), the subsequent painting does not make any fun at all. How is it with Fertan e tc. ? The stuff has to be removed after the effect again. How do you get it out of the fold ? When I open the fold, cut it open to remove any rust, then the whole front car is a construction site . A lot of stuff has to be out – if not the whole engine . And either I do it step by step or the box has to be fixed on a car body bench . No matter how, a pleasure it is certainly not . Maybe you have some suggestions for me … The rust parker PS : The data sticker w It’s made out of courtesy to the vehicle manufacturer, this dumpster, unrecognizable.