Category: Oldtimer Forum

I have always been old- and youngtimer-friend, unfortunately so far and probably also the next time passive, because I have no time for such a car and will have. I had in between with the thought of getting something nice to me. In the end the mind has always won and I got cold feet. I still think back then and when again to the cars, which came into the selection at that time and think about what probably has become of them. The first Kandida t was a 79 W123 280C carburetor with automatic steering wheel. Rotmetallic with light leather seats and otherwise except for the electric window lifter full equipment. Absolute top condition of a retired dentist. I did not take it because I just started studying and thought I could not afford the fuel consumption. Another vehicle I sometimes think of was an 84 Jaguar XJ6 Series III in british-racing green with light leather equipment. After I already got the price gu I thought about it a bit differently, although I would have had the money and the garage space. Have you ever seen something like this before? Your stories please! Greetings to the beaver

Hello together, I have problems with TÜV. And that is, yesterday I got my Evb number for my 1968 cadillac deville. I take the papers with me and drive to the registration office. There I am informed that I lack paragraphs 21 and 23. I then to the TÜV, there the examiner tells me, rear lights change back, there must be orange glass installed… Modern radio must not be installed either, there was no at that time. Does he take drugs? Then he says to me, everything has to be converted, like for a h-approval! Then I can save myself the red number… ? I wanted red number, only for this one reason. No TÜV! Save me the money. Can someone please enlighten me? What is more meaningful red number or h approval, what is above all cheaper.

Meal together, did not find anything in the search, so the question is: Is there any experience / opinions about buying a fully restored youngtimer? there is a huge price range, but if you’re not gifted with screw technology and would still like to drive an e.g. Knudsen or 1 polo, what’s left for another? Are there special portals for something like this, so clearly at mobile.de you can also find youngtimers but there are probably other better sites?

Gude, I have a strong restoration needy allcars Charly and would like to bring him back to the street. However, I am looking for the type plate until now in vain and fear that it is no longer possible to find it or would you have an idea where it might be appropriate? But the frame number is there and well readable. Do you think it is a way to bring it back on the road. So sign up, new papers etc. Here’s all the info I have : Manufacturer. Allcars from Itali Charly Year of construction: 70s 50ccm moto morini Motor approx. 30km/h 4speeds Thanks already in advance Greeting

Hello At my car I discovered the first rusts and wonder where I can get the rust removed best. So far I have discovered rust in the entrance and at the stern. Since I already thought of having games do a cavity seal, the question arises whether I should let it be removed in the workshop or drive to a paint shop. Then the question arises what such a thing will cost, so far the rusts are rather small. Although I am there In the rear the rust can be after-effects of an accident last winter where in the workshop the plastic heck cladding was renewed. My car is now almost 9 years old and with rust is now probably too arithmetic.

Hello, my old car has flat flight grate and a few small bumps on the chassis and axle carriers, especially where the car once sat up. The body is however top. Now there are some places, because of the geometry you can not completely rust, but only with a beige the coarsest rust away. Now I know that rust converters after several hours/days influence time (it forms a black layer), must be overpainted necessarily. Is there any experience with rustproof paint from the hardware store, which can be applied with a small paint brush? I thought of metal base, hammerite, rust blocker, rustproof paint for rusty garden fences or garage doors, which can be painted directly on rust, does that hold well? MfG Chris

Last week I was in Werne on the Lippe near Hamm in the local Mercedes-Autohaus to get me some nice, new brochures for my brochure collection and drove the Landwehrstraße along from Selm coming and saw the former BMW-Autohaus Christoph Heitmann, Landwehrstraße 109, today a conditioner. It had stood empty for longer, in 2003 it was taken over by BMW Schmidt from Lünen, which built a new, modern and above all larger car house at the Fürstenhof in 2006. someone to the old Heitmann car dealership? Why was it taken over by Schmidt? Maybe someone bought a BMW there? Tell your stories!

I am looking for experiences and product tips for cleaning/degreasing/degreasing vehicle parts. e.g. A sheet metal part to sandblasting is a common method. But like e.g. I clean a greasy and rusty part ? Sandblasting is only externally applicable and can not clean a very greasy part normal degreasing/cold cleaner does not remove rust. In addition, it allows rubber parts to soften, or even dissolves them. Is there a useful liquid material which also removes rust ? In the USA Is it possible to give one or the other means, among other things, with phosphoric acid. see e.g. http://www.navybrand.com/degreasers.html Overnight the part insert, rust and oil are removed. Prima for carburettors, axle parts, engine parts…etc. Are these chemical clubs also available here (D-Land) ? My new part scrubber is waiting for work. Dirty parts are abundant 🙂

Hello together. I recently got a bottle of TEL ( Tetra-ethyl lead) and I have to say the difference is enormous (Ford sierra 1982 OHC 2.0) , hard to believe that the engine immediately runs much quieter and simply nicer . This replacement lead potassium-based additive is nothing….egal….I’m going to drive to UK now next week and the manufacturer is near , and selling the stuff kistenweise . Will I somehow make myself environmentally-legally punishable if I The manufacturer’s site says it’s aprooved…. If you’re interested, I can also bring something for you here http://tetraboost.com/tetraboost-e-guard-15/

Hello oldtimer fans, I own a BMW 3 Series, built in 1989, of the E30 series, which is to receive the H-mark in the context of its new registration this year. What do I need to know about this? The vehicle is (except for the radio – to which suitable original replacement is sought) in absolute original condition. Currently the technology is completely repaired to reach a HU without defects. Since the BMW is a reimport, a full acceptance must be made to my knowledge anyway.1) How verh Does this happen with the H acceptance? Does the vehicle have to be presented to an inspection centre or can the examiner carry out the necessary examinations etc. in a car dealership?2) Does anyone know more about this? Who has experience with an H acceptance and can give me and interested readers good tips and hints?