Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello At my car I discovered the first rusts and wonder where I can get the rust removed best. So far I have discovered rust in the entrance and at the stern. Since I already thought of having games do a cavity seal, the question arises whether I should let it be removed in the workshop or drive to a paint shop. Then the question arises what such a thing will cost, so far the rusts are rather small. Although I am there In the rear the rust can be after-effects of an accident last winter where in the workshop the plastic heck cladding was renewed. My car is now almost 9 years old and with rust is now probably too arithmetic.

Hello, my old car has flat flight grate and a few small bumps on the chassis and axle carriers, especially where the car once sat up. The body is however top. Now there are some places, because of the geometry you can not completely rust, but only with a beige the coarsest rust away. Now I know that rust converters after several hours/days influence time (it forms a black layer), must be overpainted necessarily. Is there any experience with rustproof paint from the hardware store, which can be applied with a small paint brush? I thought of metal base, hammerite, rust blocker, rustproof paint for rusty garden fences or garage doors, which can be painted directly on rust, does that hold well? MfG Chris

Last week I was in Werne on the Lippe near Hamm in the local Mercedes-Autohaus to get me some nice, new brochures for my brochure collection and drove the Landwehrstraße along from Selm coming and saw the former BMW-Autohaus Christoph Heitmann, Landwehrstraße 109, today a conditioner. It had stood empty for longer, in 2003 it was taken over by BMW Schmidt from Lünen, which built a new, modern and above all larger car house at the Fürstenhof in 2006. someone to the old Heitmann car dealership? Why was it taken over by Schmidt? Maybe someone bought a BMW there? Tell your stories!

I am looking for experiences and product tips for cleaning/degreasing/degreasing vehicle parts. e.g. A sheet metal part to sandblasting is a common method. But like e.g. I clean a greasy and rusty part ? Sandblasting is only externally applicable and can not clean a very greasy part normal degreasing/cold cleaner does not remove rust. In addition, it allows rubber parts to soften, or even dissolves them. Is there a useful liquid material which also removes rust ? In the USA Is it possible to give one or the other means, among other things, with phosphoric acid. see e.g. http://www.navybrand.com/degreasers.html Overnight the part insert, rust and oil are removed. Prima for carburettors, axle parts, engine parts…etc. Are these chemical clubs also available here (D-Land) ? My new part scrubber is waiting for work. Dirty parts are abundant 🙂

Hello together. I recently got a bottle of TEL ( Tetra-ethyl lead) and I have to say the difference is enormous (Ford sierra 1982 OHC 2.0) , hard to believe that the engine immediately runs much quieter and simply nicer . This replacement lead potassium-based additive is nothing….egal….I’m going to drive to UK now next week and the manufacturer is near , and selling the stuff kistenweise . Will I somehow make myself environmentally-legally punishable if I The manufacturer’s site says it’s aprooved…. If you’re interested, I can also bring something for you here http://tetraboost.com/tetraboost-e-guard-15/

Hello oldtimer fans, I own a BMW 3 Series, built in 1989, of the E30 series, which is to receive the H-mark in the context of its new registration this year. What do I need to know about this? The vehicle is (except for the radio – to which suitable original replacement is sought) in absolute original condition. Currently the technology is completely repaired to reach a HU without defects. Since the BMW is a reimport, a full acceptance must be made to my knowledge anyway.1) How verh Does this happen with the H acceptance? Does the vehicle have to be presented to an inspection centre or can the examiner carry out the necessary examinations etc. in a car dealership?2) Does anyone know more about this? Who has experience with an H acceptance and can give me and interested readers good tips and hints?

If anyone is interested.. It is not really a problem to buy a vintage car in Italy, you only need one trailer. In addition, the purchase contract, cancellation certificate and the Italian data sheet. I bought a 1A Fiat Topolino from Udine. We agreed with the Google mobile phone translator. Since today the Italian is a genuine Bayer. Approval passed. TÜV without Fahler. TÜV with H report was no problem, In the year 1939 you do not even need a warning blinker. At the beginning I will stay close. 75 km/h top speed. So on the highway we will probably never see each other. I am happy like a schnitzel. I have already driven 3-4 km, it is very exciting. I would be happy if there were more Topolino drivers in the greater Munich area.

Hello ! My uncle brought a Camaro from Austria years ago (think year 76 or something). He was standing around now years, now he wanted to finish it and register it. The Camaro had English papers with him at that time, in Austria he was not allowed. Unfortunately he no longer has this English document thing – and he can not find the purchase contract anymore. Now the question: Is it necessary to have the English papers at all? My buddy once had an old K he then sent a request to the KBA, which then confirmed after a waiting period that the beetle was not reported as stolen. With the note he is then to the TÜV and the registration office – and the beetle was finished (at least approval technical…). Is it useful to say here simply one has lost the papers (without the hint that it was English papers…). Think that would be a lot of work I would like to ask you a question about this, because a German official probably gets the panic. Nobody knew the history of the beetle at that time, maybe he was allowed to go abroad before? At least nobody asked – and even if- how should my buddy know? The barn should be torn down and nobody should know exactly about the beetle. I ask for advice on how to do this the easiest, without a horde of amnesty. Thank you & Greetings Kababus

Hi, I’ve been driving a very well-preserved Golf 1 GX with 70 hp for almost half a year now, the car had when I bought it already a 60th complete chassis with 7×13 Mattig Sportstahl rims on it, so the already looked pretty horny. When I bought it I was really excited about driving something that you see very rarely nowadays. Well at the beginning I wanted to leave the car original but it got boring with the time, so clear glass would follow s, black rear lights, supersprint system from Kat, open air filter etc. Well now eater low, wide and loud …. in some sense “disfigured”. What do you think about old cars to tune about ?

Hello dear ones. I’ve been working on the topic of restoration of vintage cars more recently, since I inherited one a short time ago. Now I’m not sure if a restoration would be worthwhile at all, or if I really want it. I came across this forum when I was looking for it. My vintage car is a Mercedes-Benz W110 190DC. Now it’s hard to assess whether the restoration is worth it, because it’s no longer in the very best condition. he might give someone a tip for me, where and if I should have the old car repaired again? Love greet you, Tija93